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You've helped me so maybe I can offer up something (doubtful) I was having trouble with my fuel gage and running out of gas on 3/4 of a tank. ( Missed my reserve tank!!!) Any way.. Drained gas removed the two front screws lifted the tank pulled the fuel pump and you will see the fuel regulator. I asked several of my hard cor biker friends who all ride sport bikes and best they could tell me is Oh! It's "one of those you twist out" so that same information from all three made me feel much better and that's all it did! Nothing on RU-vid or in the manual helped so I took it off brought it to bed where I spotted what looked like the pull end of a zip tie👀 and with long nosed pliers gave it a gentle pull and out she came. I felt like monkey trying to get a banana out of glass box. But it works and saved me hundreds on the part alone that has to be bought used or replace the fuel pump. Always watching for that 💲, these companys have no thoughts of us the consumer of their product, like when they moved the solenoid from the engine compartment and attached it to the starter! That's not more convenient because now I've got to take the hammer under the car! But if you have trouble with your fuel regulator look for the end of a zip tie I finally
Hey there im 60 something and a lady, I'm on my own and I can't budget in the cost of serving my street triple 675, the ship is 100miles and I would need to rent a trailer probably twice because motorcycle shops never get done while you wait, do they. And my old truck drinks a gallon of fuel every 10 miles. So this is super helpful for me Thank You! Really same brake line but from both the reservoir and calapor 👌 never would have gotten that right🫣. Honestly it's my first fussy bike 😂 and he is a bit of a fuss. So many screws just to get to the radiator cap! A magnetic tray should come standard!
@@frbfreeridebeans true, was just browsing vid to try an understand the basics and I’m sure my rear is wound off to the top why would it be wound off fully
Thanks for this, just trying to get my head around what's happening - first time doing it. Am I right in thinking that for the rear brake, you didn't change/remove all of the fluid - you just replaced some of the old fluid with some new fluid, but it was mostly just removing air? I guess you can just keep doing this, unless at some point you suspect the fluid in there is bad and needs to be fully drained and replaced?
Static sag is not relevant. Unless your bike goes around town without you on it. You want to have the suspension allow enough up and down travel when you are on it. That is how a suspension works. All gas pressure shocks will try and be at full extension. The weight compressing the shock is the relevant part of getting travel adjusted right. Once you have shock travel sorted then adjust the shock valving to your taste.
I don't get this. You had the same amount of static sag before and after the adjustment. We clearly saw 10mm of movement before and maybe 12-13mm after the adjustment. Practically the same.
You really should suck the old fluid out of the reservoirs and film them with fresh fluid before you bleed. That gets the old fluid out of the lines much faster. You're pushing a lot of old fluid out and, worse, mixing new fluid with old fluid as your helper tops of the master cylinders. Not a good idea. Always suck almost all of the old fluid out of the master cylinders and refill with fresh fluid before you bleed the brakes. Also, you should only have to bleed the master cylinders if you replaced them (the master cylinders) or, for some reason you ran them completely dry and pumped air into them. Lastly, I may be wrong but it seems to me that when you bleed ABS, you should have the brake bleeders open. Otherwise, how can you push old fluid out of the ABS system? The fluid has nowhere to go. After bleeding ABS, you have to bleed the brakes again the normal way, of course.
Thanks for the video! Welldone! Just as a note from a fellow Street Triple owner: When draining the oil, have the bike on the side stand as per the manual. This makes the drain plug the lowest point on the bike. Allows the oil to drain faster, and helps drain more oil overall.
Thanks for the view and comment it’s much appreciated. I will try that in a couple of days when I do the oil change. I’m also going to be doing a video in the next few days on fitting some clipons to my striple 👍
If the rider sag is proper and you have no static sag left you’re spring is too soft for you. And while I don’t want to say anything about Dave moss his experience I find him a very commercial bloke that doesn’t give away a lot in his free videos. For example Paul Thede from Racetech, he even wrote a book about all the components and info there is to know about suspension. There’s actually a lot more people than just him that are brilliant in suspension stuff. But just getting sag right is only the basics, in fact everyone should do this. Even better shops should do this when you buy a new bike. Sag off is geometry off and a bad steering bike, or at least worse than it could be. I’m kind of blessed I raced a lot of years motocross and had a few people around me teaching me a lot about this subject, it translates really well to road and race bikes. One thing I do miss on a lot of road bikes is a manual that states the rider and static sag values, as they differ a bit from bike to bike, as said it’s fine tuning the suspension to set it to the meant geometry. If you buy a motocross bike sag values are in your manual.
I hope you re checked rider sag after getting static sag set. You probably have more rider sag now than 35mm. Most bikes come under sprung for riders over 185 pounds (add 20 pounds for riding gear, helmet etc.) Also sag should be measured not in a stand, as it will be different when not. Also shoot for the same rider sag and damping front and rear, so the bike goes down evenly and returns at both ends the same. To get proper sag often you need to change the springs front and rear if on the heavy side to get the balance between comfort and handling.
Nearly 11k but I’ve not been riding due to ill health. But keep an eye on the channel as I’m in the middle of ordering the parts to change it into a Daytona minus the engine 👍
Ive noticed the earpeace hifi pro ones, I wondered if they might improve the music from my Cardo much more than these while riding. Or would I be wasting my money. Its a shame btw they is no connecting cord between them for security.
Yes I totally agree with you about the cord. I’m not sure about the hifi pro ones might be worth a try. I also use mine for when I travel on a plane I wouldn’t fly without them 👍
Hi the handling of them are very very similar. As for power it’s slightly more on the 765. It’s just a bit more of a modern bike and feels a bit more plush in my opinion 👍
@@frbfreeridebeans driving a honda cb1000r 4th season. I want to change bike. I really like the street triple 765 but I can't afford it. I don't want to buy a speed triple because of the weight. do you think switching from honda to street triple 675r will be a disappointment? won't street be too boring and weak?
@matimateo6932 hi it depends on what your after I can tell you one thing the street is very light and extremely nimble I’ve never been wanting for more power on the road but I would suggest you test ride one and see for yourself
Hello mate I know it's been a while since this video was uploaded (great review btw I really enjoyed it) I'm looking at getting the 2021 model to get to work and back as I'm 16 and not wanting to catch the bus the route is mainly quiet country roads will a 50cc be able to handle country roads for 20mins+
American cops make no sense lol. I feel bad for y’all! Ours are problematic too but not typically in this odd power hungry sense. I don’t think ours are any better either 🤣
Put a cable tie on the chrome stansion so it'll let you know just how much fork travel you have for your weight and your type of riding, it'll let you know when & where the fork bottoms out & that way you'll be able to tell if the settings that you've dialled in from your owner manual are correct for your. Weight. I.e with your leathers on, which will give you a better rider sag reading.
