Can't believe no-one has made a comment on this video...Thank you Hale motors, there is so little info out there regarding the poor manual gearbox. I'm trawling to collect info on the jaguar xe manual gearbox setup and this has helped very much. Cheers.
Spent morning injecting Bilt Hamber cavity wax into my 2005 Saab Aero convertible 9.3 - outside coated with Waxoil so hoping won’t need to replace 🙏 have done the same to front sub frame I know front subframes are available from Saab outlets as manufacturing again - rear have seen on E Bay new for about £300? Glad I saw your video - otherwise would not have looked !
Just stumbled across this video, there's not much info or knowledge out there about these diffs. Is it normal for the output flanges on each side to have any lateral (in/out) play or movement?
How on earth did you get the 4 bolts out of the ac pump? I can just about get to the bottom two with a spanner but cant get enough torque to undo them, feeling like its gonna be a condensor and radiator removal job
Hi, thanks for watching, the bolts go though the pump to the bracket, then you remove the bracket. easier if you go over the front subframe to get to them,Good luck.
--- I have a Saab 9-3, model year 2003, version 2. When I park the car and leave it for 8-10 hours, it won't start in the morning. All the electronics work (like the radio and lights), but the engine doesn't get power to start. To get the car running, I open the hood and connect a cable from the starter relay to the negative terminal on the battery while the ignition is on. The car then starts immediately. After this, I can start the car normally with the key until I leave it again for several hours, and the problem occurs again. Does anyone know what the problem might be!?
Hi, quick question mate... my plunger is stuck all the way into and is jammed there( tried everything to pull it out), what could coause this?) Btw the head is still.on the engine and ibe just removed the rocker cover? Great video too!
@@halemotors4084 Firstly, thanks for the swift reply!....by "free state" do you mean the cam lobes shouldn't be pressing on the valves?? If so, I've positioned both inlet cams where they're facing upwards( by removing rear timing belt) but still no luck!....I can see the control shaft turn a few degrees when trying to pull the plunger out, totally out of ideas hoping you can shine some light on this one, thanks again!!
@@DonDon-ee1uf Hello again, its been a while since ive had one in bits,im pretty sure if the control shaft reaches its limit on the vvti units it wont travel any more causing the plunger to stop at a certain point. i will try and grab one so i can check and give you more info.
Are the clips at the top removed the same way, my car's previously had a front end repair by the former owner. The brackets look bodged so ive got to replace those as well in order to get the wing/bumper fitted right. This is the only vid anywhere that shows how to remove a Mk2 front bumper, a big thumbs up to you guys.
I have to put a new subframe onto my Saab 9-3 2011. Have many working hours did you use on the job? I do like the videos you are doing on theese car repair! Regards Palle, Denmark
Hi Palle, thanks for watching, it took about 6 hrs in total to complete, i dropped as much of the suspension as i could and then used a disc cutter to remove the bolts that were totally seized, the rest were welding plant to remove then fitted new, the two links with the rose joint in them are much easier to fit if you chase a die up and down the thread, they spin less when refitting. Thanks Rick
@@halemotors4084 Thank you for the fast and informative replay. Two sentense i do not quite understand: The rest were welding plant to remove? And "chase a die" up and down the thread? Kind regards Palle Schnell I should like to send you a picture from the EPC of the Rear Axle, All of the parts on the rear axle are shown on that picture. But I cannot paste the picture to this place
@@palleschnell The welding plant we refer to is Oxygen and Acetylene, the thread is cleaned using a thread tools,Taps and Dies? trykk og dø. Hope this helps Send picture to richardbenson99@btinternet.com
@@halemotors4084 Thank you once again! Now I know what you mean by Die and Tap. Tools for making or refreshing a thread, a die for the bolts and a tap for the thread holes. And the welding plant is used for heating up the seized bolts. Which is not possible to do on the car as the petrol tank is close to the subframe/rear axle. I suppose that you now the Saab Wise program and the EPC (Electronic Part Catalog)? Kind regards Palle
Excellent tutorial. Well done. Does anyone know by any chance why my Saab 9-3 2003 automatic car refuses to start. The key fob goes in, it turns, no error message on screen, but as soon as I put the key fob in the ignition, the steering wheel normally automatically unlocks but in this case it doesn't unlock at all and the car tries to start by turning the engine over, but but nothing happens. Any ideas as it is driving me crazy. If only I had an error message then it might possibly help. This happened all of a sudden. Please help if possible. I love my Saab and I cannot part with it.
As with any design, there are compromises between the primary function and secondary considerations. The design compromise here involved making the clutch pedal robust enough for a lifetime’s use while maintaining the necessity of failure when required. As with any crash worthy design, the engineers doubtless considered the necessity of minimising intrusion of stiff structures and components into the footwell in the event of a moderate or severe frontal collision. In this event, the clutch and brake pedals are designed to fail in a predictable way thus reducing the likelihood of entrapment and life-changing lower limb injury. While I’m all to aware of the costs associated with renewing the clutch pedal, I am also conscious that reinforcing the welds beyond intended design limits might have unintended consequences. In all the circumstances, I’m willing to live with the occasional failure given my choice to run a 2010 Panda for my 36 mile each-way commute.
Wow, what a good tip you,ve just gave me there mr, nice one. I have the ford Ka mk2 and i was trying to take the front bumper of it the other day and had this problem, so Cheers....👍
Good evening everyone, I accidentally broke the crankshaft sensor plug on my 2006 CRV, I'm confused in the order of the sensor station because there are 3 wires, help me
Hi, Thanks for watching! We are located in Stockport Manchester. You can get the body off in about 6hrs on a good clean car but allow for some fittings that may be a bit siezed on older cars. Best bet is to give yourself a day to remove it!
Im in the planning process of rebuilding the whole rear axle by taking one complete axle from another car and making it brand new before dropping my old one from the car. Any comments on the whole removal part? As I see it, 1. calipers off, 2. swingarm bolts off, 3. subframe bolts off - would you say thats the order of removal? Ive done front subframes but not the rear one on this car. One of the front subframe bolts was a bitch to get off - ended cutting it, was so rusted - were there problems taking the big bolts out on the rear axle aswell? As in, should i buy the induction heater upfront, so there would not be any downtime with the car, as I only have a weekend to get it back on the road. Thanks
Hi! I would say lots of the bolts were seized so have a new set to hand if you only have the weekend to do it, easy enough to remove , have a disc cutter ready to chop through the bolts, you wont know what is siezed until you try so i would make sure which bolts arent tight in the bushes the weekend before so you can order new ones if needed. Thanks Rick
Hi Tim, Thanks for watching!, Yes aTiny bit of play is ok,i have had them where the Diff carrier bearings have gone but its not too common. Thanks Rick
That relay gets a ground (ignition neg [-]) switched at the coil 85 from the ignition, I took a feed from a positive (12V+) in the fuse box and converted that to NEG (-) via a mini relay. So glad that now you understand. @@mav3ric100
Thanks for the lifesaver video! Which motor has this? I'm asking because I have a 2.2 diesel FRV and I need to check/replace this lovely sensor... Cheerz in advance! :)
Hi. This was a 2.2 diesel. Once you know where its located the job is easy, you may need someone just to hold the A/C Pump out of the way whilst you change the sensor. Thanks For watching Rick
@BruceWayne-sz3th Hi Bruce. The A/C Unit is under the alternator,remove the serpentine belt, undo the bolts holding the A/C Pump on, then you can remove the bracket and access the sensor.Hope this helps.Rick
Hi there! sounds like something is sticking ,can you run the shaft with the cover off on diagnostic equipment to see where its sticking ,then you can strip and manually operate it to see if its the shaft or the valve train?
