I’m so grateful for this video! I was at my wits end from trying everything I could think of to get perfect even spaces. Your video is absolutely simple and to the point and made perfect sense. Appreciate it very much! Made my builds so much easier.
I've gone through at least 5 YT videos before finding this one. Some of them you need a degree in math to follow. You have provided the simplest most straight forward method to solve the spacing problem. Thank you.
Don’t agree at all with having two different spaces between top and bottom, it will be very obvious the pickets are not plumb. I think it’s better to just set the first picket plumb and use the same spacing measurement for top and bottom down the line. I just did two sides of a deck using both methods and it looks much better to have the irregular spacing between only the post and first picket compared to having your pickets on a slant down the whole run.
Ok. So epoxy on 4 corners doesn’t fix the issue. Maybe his. But not this issue. It is actually an issue with the tension. Haven’t quite figured out why. But I am trying the epoxy in the middle to see if that will fix my issue. U would think glass isn’t that flexible. 🤔 I don’t know what else to do. Other than the hot glue. I think that it doesn’t actually get hot enough to melt
I am old school, now days everyone uses apps. I like knowing how and why. This is the best, easiest, and quickest explanation for spindle spacing I ever heard. Most talk about adding ghost spindles when in fact you are calculating the spaces. I am subscribing in hopes that in the future you will give us another pearl. Thank you.
Do you ever use it without any dust collection? I typically use mine outside and wanted to know if I needed to connect my duct extractor every time. Great video BTW...
Hello I’m having problems with the nozzle dragging into prints after 5-10 layers the z axis ends top is good and everything no bed warp and I just don’t get it it’s definitely not my cura settings either
Good idea but I do not like the idea of epoxy as it will cause an air gap and inconsistent heating, I think a better option than epoxy is to use rubberized thermal adhesive and spread a 2mm layer then sit the glass on it avoiding air bubbles then heat the bed up to the temp you usually use ( this will allow the bed to fully warp as it does when heated ) then press the glass gently down letting a small excess ooz out the sides with the aim to end up with a 1mm layer and then let it set and then clean up the edges. The rubberized thermal adhesive allows for a tiny amount of flex so as not to over stress the glass when the metal expands and contracts, and the thermal adhesive would conduct the heat evenly and reliably to the glass.
Do you know how long I've been looking for a video like this?? For about 6 months or so. I quit doing searches because nothing relevant came up. Then last night, your video pops up on my "Suggested for You". I've been needing this video for a long time. Today I used your advice for screw placement on a project and had everything all laid out in less than 10 minutes. Thank you for taking the time to make and post this video. 👍
This is fine so long as after doing the math the space between the pickets complies with local building codes which generally require the pickets to be less than 4 inches apart. If you do the math and your space is 4 inches or more you have to go back and add enough pickets to get the space under 4 inches.