Disclaimer: I am not a qualified mechanic, I am a mechanically minded enthusiast that does extensive research before I conduct a task. If I ever get stuck, I do seek help from qualified mechanics to overcome the problems presented that I can not solve on my own. I will always recommend viewers seek help from experts as well if they are not comfortable with the task or get stuck.
Ok so Picture this I'm trying to work on my ute and find information on step-by-step instructions to replace a part. I look online to find tutorials and I find little information or nothing relevant to my situation. So I decided to do the research myself with the factory manuals and walk through step by step how to replace or service my vehicle. I hope others can use my videos to solve similar issues and save money on repairs.
I also love to share my thoughts and reviews on many different products, while sharing my gaming content as well.
Yes that bloody clip on the water sensor,nothing anywhere on youtube about it and most people were doing the Thai D40 filter which is completely different. I never change the sensor just take it off and whack a new O ring on from the supplied Ryco filter but my D40 is an 07 so it might not be as finnicky with the ECU throwing codes. Also I now don't put that clip back on the water sensor wiring and it has never fallen out. Good to see you're using the correct DPF friendly oil as your D40 is the Spanish version like mine and has a DPF whereas the Thai builds don't have a DPF so are not as particular. Had to change my DPF because the previous owner had the car serviced at a shop and they were putting non DPF oil in it and it chewed the guts out of the DPF,cost me $2500 from Nissan for a new one because you cant buy after market variants in Oz I found out later I could have just run it as it was I just would have been spewing a little more black smoke out the back
@@user-ny1if4wn3d yea that clip is a pain in the ass stupid design compared to other makes and models. As for dpf only Spain built with automatic gearbox D40 are fitted with a DPF manuals like mine are not which is one of the factors that made me but mine. But I found low ask oil just run alot smoother anyways with or without dpf so I've stuck to it the penrite equivalent I use ATM as I no longer have access to nurlon is penrite pro5 3w30 that stuff pretty good and runs in alot of makes and models with or without dpf.
Hey mate, Cannot for the life of me get the actually water sensor off the bottom of my old fuel filter to put onto my new fuel filter. Got the metal U clip and unplugged. But just need to change the sensor over from old filter to new filter
@@dyyldoes you can buy it's a pain in be ass normally when you buy a fuel filter with that model the filter comes with the water sensor installed so all you need to do is replace the clip. I wouldn't recommend removing the old sensor and placing it on a new filter as they are designed to be thrown away unless you you mean the clip itself? Normally take the U bar off then it just comes of with ease
huge help man few things i need a visual on as everyone has a different opinion or different way of doing it. and yes mostly overseas models. but as always every individual finds the best way for them as they go along. subscribed, going to have a look at your other vids and watch through your podcasts. cheers mate. dyyldoes 2013 d40 dualcab auto
@@dyyldoes glad you enjoyed it I do it differently now as I have access to car hoist so now I just lift her up undo oil filter from underneath and to clean teb oil use a shop vaccume suction to suck all the oil out the. Wipe with rag replace and then do the oil much easier now but I found talking the wheel off dos add extra step I found it way easier to get the filter out and clean be from above also it's the cleanes way
@@vikingzteflon8404 because I can't film while doing the work as I don't have a stand or in a awkward position I try to give as much information as possible. I do have time stamps in all my videos however so you can click on the parts that are relevant to you. I found in my videos there was never enough information especially on what to do when something goes wrong so I aim to fill that void.
You will get some scrubbing if don't have a bull bar with be worse with factory mine are more 32 and abit with 2inch lift she just missed the chassis but if had 33 Def's svrub
@@trusersnek yea I try to post videos of issues and how to fix them as things go wrong lucky my navs not so bad but we get a fair few issues in at work with lost of different issues
I use a flat head screwdriver end gently push it out be careful it's a pick of a clip it pushed down so the U part faces the bottom kinda have to feel for it
Have had one on an MQ Triton for 90,000 km without issues. Recently ran a fuel economy test on a set route on the Hume, 116km loop, two circuits at similar times in the evening, near nil wind and light traffic, cruise control set at true 110 KPH [GPS]. With delete cable fitted 9.28L/100km. Without cable [EGR active] 9.806L/100km.
There’s a thing called an egr cooler, which cools the gases before they enter the combustion chamber. I thought the way the egr works is by second burning any unburnt particles that got through the first time
They work way better then the stock globes on mine the heat shield doesn't produce a black spot on mine I get good spread and it doesn't dazzle other drivers and bigger bonus haven't had to replace one since installed them as I was going through globes every 8 months as I'd have to have them on every day to and from work they just didn't last and they are expensive when you have to change them yearly.
I think it's because each ute out of the factory is slightly different. Then you have factors like what wheel alignment for what tyres you have, has your car been in a crash. Then there's the year and what country was it built in. These are the only things I can think of why it's different for each person.
@@jamieleem229 no worries yea some brands you can lock the centre shaft with a tool insert but but that bosh alternator manufacturers of the alternator doesn't't have that ability so it's rattle gun only
Yea I was not happy when realised the pulley wasn't gonna be possible to replace the alternator ain't cheap but save money by fixing it before it goes as when that pulley gives out while driving it can damage alot of components on the engine.
I mean it's not legal but that be the max before things start to breaks U will loose power and use more fuel but tbh it's all up to you I found 32inc tyres and 2 inch lift I can get pretty much anywhere besides then crazy stuff.
Yeah i understand its not legal and thats ok. Lets be realistic, doing all this to the D40 is what puts it up to par with other utes on their STOCK sus... lol@@j01HUNTER
Na not a fake have the license listing and have the updates and ECT? If it's a fake it wouldn't be able to update and have excess to all the launch features which I do. The model and update one I have has that style of case I also have the certificates from the sella of authentication by launch licencing ECT so it's a genuine as far as I am concerned.
On mine it can't as there's no sensor but if your car has a module for it then it will be able to as that car was one of the key points they advertise they can do full biodirectional control with.
Hey mate does the rear drain plug have a washer or something on it? I had pieces of something stuck to my plug and not sure if I can put the plug back in or if it needs a washer or something??
@@tomhiggins4584 I would definitely open the diff up and check it hasn't got damaged it's not hard to open it up and re seal it but if you find metal it is a bad sign.
Hey pal, thanks for the video. One question. Why you recommend oil change every 30 K, especially for the front differential? Taking into account that the Navara is a rear-wheel-drive vehicle.
That's the recommendation from the manufacturer. Plus the front differential on the D40 has a thinner walled housing than most other brands. Due to this they are known to blow easily when not maintained within manufacture specifications.
That's the alternator clutch pulley failing I had to replace the whole alternator in the end as the shaft was completely melted I made another video on how to replace it.
Okay, mate. We have some issues here. For reference, I run a business almost exclusively installing lift kits and 4WD accessories. I can assure you that at 28.04, it is absolutely the assembler's fault. I've fitted heaps of pre-assembled lift shocks that fit perfectly the first time. To further add to the issue, I suspect your strut top hat bolt was installed incorrectly as well-specifically, not tight enough. I believe this for two reasons. Firstly, you can see that there is essentially no thread coming out of the top of the nut; there should always be at least a small amount of thread (I've built hundreds). Secondly, at 27.38, you can hear the dust boot hit the bottom strut top washer, creating an audible "clink" sound. The sound test is something I perform on every strut I build. If everything is correctly assembled, I should be able to tap it all over the strut and never make it produce that "clink" sound. Think about it; every single bump you go over will make that strut rattle. In conclusion, mate, it is the assembler's fault, and I hope they covered the cost of you getting them installed. Cheers, mate
Yea they did thanks for your information very informative the struts were assembled by a young lad who looked like he just woke up so I o my had to pay for the wheel alignment didn't get charged for the front strut install.
I did notice she was ever so slightly taller and when lift kit was installed more notable but she rides very comfortable as it was only one size up from stock.
