Sockets are good for a dynamic work cell. Being able to relocate machines to set up new work cells to improve workflow and speed up production is a bonus. During the pandemic many large shops had to close as they were unable to adapt to both restrictions and the suspended product runs. Being able to adapt quickly to demand is key. Okay we are only small shops but thinking big (or outside the box) Is where we can find a competitive edge, eventually we will all have to be ISO 9001in order to do our chosen job - call it a government promoted licence, no licence then we wont be considered competent. Consider BS 7671 for the electrical trade, prior to 2006 many electricians were not registered with any professional body, then overnight many electricians found their operations were deemed illegal if they didn't get signed up to a professional body.
I have often thought about the iso9001 as really its just a paper work traceability exercise from what i can tell, and some people say much easier to do if your a single man shop as its easier to show how you follow your specified protocol
Great update! Love how you got the power and air away from the floor and up in the air! The machines don't use enough air to worry about quick connects, so I agree: Just leave them.
Thanks 👍 yes its much nicer to be able to walk behind the machine and not have the power and air leads just laying across the floor, saves tripping over them and also means its easier to clean and sweep behind the machines or roll the coolant trays out when needed
Good luck with your CNC course, I think its a great idea, especially for someone who would like to learn with an older machine which is something they could afford without payments!
Thanks, That’s the idea, If your looking to step into cnc buying something for 75k to 100k then the most likely already know way more than me or your doing proper courses etc So yes I’m thinking more for the guys who are thinking of starting their own small shop or a machine in the garage
@StanislavZachazevski that’s spot on That’s how I got into doing the repairs etc as I had no choice and couldn’t afford to pay a service tech or engineer to repair them for me
@@kinzy_fabrications same on this opposite part of eu. My old lady - bridgeport vmc560 still holds a microns level of accuracy, but the electronic part needs to be cleaned and repaired. Still added touch probe and 4 axis to old tnc407. With vintage graphics. How they were able to make it then. Consider to open donation for some floor paint. Yes it is hard to move all lathes to one side of workshop, but its worth.
Love the vids man. I have my own shop in my basement with a Haas Super Mini-Mill, CNC Router, Bridgeport Series II, Willis 1550 and a lot of 3D printers. Your vids for fixing the Haas’s are great. I used them to swap ball screws and fix my tool changer.
That sounds like a great shop to have at home! I don’t think my wife would get me away from the machines if they were at home lol I’m glad the videos helped you out Thanks for watching
What's unfixable on a linear rail machine?? IMO the best machine, to strip down completely, sand-waterblast everything, new paintjob, LinuxCNC refit and basically new machine for cheap.
Very well done video, I am sure your have helped a lot of people, who don't want to go into debt, with older Haas machines as there are a ton of them out there still making parts.
Thank you, Hopefully people find the video's helpful, i usually get good feedback on the video and yeah as you say there is a lot of older Haas still out there that can make good parts, even if they do need a bit of tlc and maybe a few parts
Thanks for reply about grooving with 3mm blade please will you do a line for me when you get set up again I know you’re busy . I will try what you said as well 👍 Thanks skip Ps I can’t reply back on email 🤷🏻♂️
go for it mate, I'm very happy I've done it as i have wanted to for a while but wasn't sure i could manage it on my own but i did and now I'm much happier with the layout. The only thing i will say is i knew it would take 3 or 4 days to move etc but with the re wiring and re running of the air for the machines along with the rest of the re organizing it has easily been 2 weeks start to finish
Hope work picks up mate! Just to mention, my spark said rules changed and 3 phase plugs no longer allowed, have to be hard wired in if a spark does it. I may have kept hold of the plugs and sockets.... 😂
We have just had all the electrics re certified here for insurance and there is no issue with having the interlocks etc so no idea what rules he means. im sure its fine as long as you have an interlock type switch, either way i have just added 2 more lol
Wow! This video is soooo refreshing! I'm so delighted you've accomplished this task. It is not easy working with limited space. Very wise leaving 1 meter for servicing the machines. Keep it up! Thanks for sharing!
maybe move the lathe next the mill and have it in the aisle across from the vf3 then move the benches and stuff at the other side of the wall thatd look pretty neat
I think il put it at 90 degree to the vf3 but i cant go close up due to the supports for the stairs that stick out but i think it will still be a much better layout
@@kinzy_fabrications wish I'd done this sooner, I started on this right away and found my 2014 has the air blast pre routed, I was able to remove the bottom cover on the spindle, reach up ans and route it next to the pcool wire. Just need a solenoid and a few fittings to complete it. For 5% the cost of the factory option!
Have always liked one man shows, it shows how much one person working efficiently can accomplish. I joke with friends all the time, " No way could you have done that without Me".
You mentioned power points for the Machines ?? Of course it's your choice. But when it comes to Industrial CNC Machines, it's always best to have them Hardwired. You want to eliminate as many points of contact as possible when powering machines like this.
Hi Yes i agree with the contact point failure but the vf3 has been on a plug for the last 2 years or so and never caused an issue, probably because its only me here, no one touches stuff and once plugged in they never normally get touched
@weldmachine You realise most manufacturing facilities the machines run off busbar systems that are basically a box that is a plug that clips on to a rail, installed many grinding machines pulling 300amp+ on basically a plug no issues running 24/7 for many years.
That looks like a good layout that consolidates all the free space together, which means it's more useful! One thing I've always liked about your shop is those skylights - those things are amazing!
Yes i rent my workshop, unfortunately places are far too expensive for me to buy at this stage in my business, i am a long long way off of that happening
@@kinzy_fabrications I see, just wish you had a proper foundation and surface for your floors. Appreciate your videos a lot, it is inspiring to see what other one man show are up to around the globe 👌
I have always like the machines along the walls and an island with benches/tools in the middle. It makes everything easy to acess. I am not sure it is the most space efficient method. That might be all the machines at 45 degrees towards a wall, but I have no way of trying that - Machines are too large and the shop too small :) Leaving space for the electric cabinet doors to open is great. I have them too close to the wall and it is a pain as you said. Great work on the reorganization !
@@kinzy_fabrications did you install this as well as the macros? I’ve heard that these older machines don’t have enough memory to store the macros and such for probes and tool setters? I would love to get this installed on my machine.
Gday Marc I’m wondering if you can help me with a simple groove out Using 3 mm parting off blade ? I want it to just break each corner .3 mm . I have quick turn 15n with a mazatrol t plus. I can get it to break front corner using number 4 on the start of the line which also brings up parts Catcher but I’m just putting a groove in not parting off. I’m guessing it needs a roughing line too so it can do both the corners then down to depth? Any help would be appreciated Thanks Skip
Hi Im in the middle of the workshop re organize an move around etc but next week i will try to remember and have a look for you but i can definitely do that groove cycle and just break each corner as it is one of the set out groove options you can select from but if you want to break the edges on a 3mm wide groove it wont do it unless you are using a part off blade narrower than 3mm so try to program it with say a 1.5mm or a 2mm blade and that might work for you Thanks Marc
Well done for servicing it, that's not something i have ever tried personally, and as i am starting to stock these parts for sale on my website, for me personally id rather just replace them
Some good fault finding and maintenance work carried out which tbh should've been done over the years. Most shops run these machines to a standstill then sell them off.
The metering units are considered maintenance items. They're actually supposed to be replaced every year or 2. Maybe if you use synthetic oil, they won't plug up. On the mill I got a few years ago, not only were the metering units clogged, but the oil lube passages on the ways (box way machine) were also plugged up with congealed oil and graphite dust. Even with a grease gun filled with diesel, I couldn't get anything to flow into the lines beyond the meters. I had to take the whole machine apart and clean everything properly (and then I found bad turcite as well - surprise surprise when it wasn't getting oil!)
Yes these things get easily overlooked by most people when buying old machines, i certainly did not know to change them out when i got my first machine! and unless you know for sure they have been changed i believe its one of the first things you should do when you get a machine just as good practice, as the cost will be cheaper than a new ball screw or linear rails that's for sure Most of the damage to the machines i have owned or have bought for spares etc come from a lack of maintenance, ive started to finally look at the machines for what they are and that's money earners, so if you want to make a little money you have to spend a little money on their up keep otherwise it will cost you more in the end
To get rid of that green stuff, I'd spray it with some kind of degreaser, let it sit, and then pressure wash it. A cnc lathe I got recently I used the oven cleaner trick (just spray everything down with oven cleaner, let it sit 10 minutes, and pressure wash) and it cleaned up everything beautifully! I just got the spindle drive working on that machine today! Pretty happy right now. The first time I've seen the axes and spindle move on that machine since I got it exactly 6 weeks ago
I'm guessing your x phasing error is some capacitors in the x axis drive are getting tired. When you power it up, the timing is slightly off because of the slightly failing caps, but if you power it up with e-stop in, the control side of the drive is powered up before the AC side is, and then the phase detection works properly. In these 90's vintage machines, if you want them to be rock solid, you pretty much should just shotgun replace ALL of the electrolytic caps in all of the electronics with new ones. Then the machine will be solid for another 30 or 40 years!
I have been using a heavy duty grime remover i got from Screwfix same sort of thing, i cant use a jet wash on it as the machine is indoors in the workshop so i just end up using tons of rags to do the job
I hear what your saying and i've heard lots about bad caps in electronics as you mention, i did try another servo amp drive though and another pcb but still the same issue, unless i was unlucky and they all have the same problem which would be just my luck lol
Hi. A question, maybe some info or even an incorrect procedure on my part. With my VF2 the spindle fan runs on for several minutes after milling has finished. This helps cool down the spindle motor & its associated electronics i.e. IMO a good idea. However, your fan is really quiet (difficult to believe - i've changed mine unecessarily), you've switched it off for video purposes or you don't find it necessary to keep it running on a bit. Any ideas ?
Hi The noise is really dependent on the type of fan on the machine, on this vf1 and on my vfoe the fan is almost silent but on my vf3 it has a bigger different style fan and it is very noisy, I have the fan timer set to run on for 6 minutes on my vf3
@user-iw5gb2lj9p the 2 types are not interchangeable due to how they mount on the machine The smaller machines vf0/1/2 with the quieter fan mount on top of the head and the gearbox machines has a noisy fan mounted in a bracket that went around the motor
Thanks, its not a bad machine at all to be fair, just a few more niggles to iron out and then il decide whether to sell it or keep it, ive got another one coming in a week or 2 so cant keep them all lol
Yeah I’ve only ever seen the green reaction with brass or bronze but there no brass or bronze swarf anywhere Either way it’s a horrible mess to clean off lol
i was told to not use Vactra oil on the linear bearings .... told to use a 5 - 20 Weight synthetic instead.... that Info came from HAAS and also remove the Sintered Filter
if you push e-stop the Z axis might creep down a little if the counter weight pressure is low or the system is faulty because it turns off all servos also, on our machine, the Micron VCE 750 which is pretty much just a VF2 from 1998 it always goes back to the tool change position after Z is homed
This vf1 is the same as my vfoe and has a braked motor z axis so no creep My vf3 has nitrogen counterbalance set up but that will not creep as long as pressure is kept good
15:58 regarding the x axis too large error. Whenever I see a fault from a cold start which improves the longer the unit is turned on I always suspect electrolytic capacitors. They lose their capacitance with age and this is accelerated if they are in a hot environment. You then get comparator circuits which detect over currents etc being tripped by signals which would be within limits if the capacitors were smoothing the signals correctly.
Hi Thank you for that information, im not sure where to look for these specifically though as i have changed motors, servo amps and even mocon boards etc so would of thought one of those would have solved the issue unless i was unlucky to have the same issue on 1 of my spare parts Thanks Marc
I feel your pain. I was replacing all the bearings on my 1997 Acra bedmill and when I got to the gearbox it appeared that it needed to pressed out. I didn't know it just simply slipped out after removing a splined shaft (shifter). Needles to say, I broke the casting. I tried to remedy it, but the 25+ years of oil soaked casting was not having it. So now I am converting that head to a cartridge spindle from an old Haas. Great video, new subscriber, thank you for posting videos of you tackling machine repairs.
Always Wise After The Fact 👌 What's new. That's life in general. We know so much after we learn how ?? But it takes a few things for this to happen. Maybe like you mentioned the guy over your shoulder with a different view of things is good. ( usually, it's a mate with good intentions but has no clue how to even change a light bulbs giving you advice 😅 ) Otherwise, it's a case of leaning from experience. Either you pay for this experience. Or you do it like most of us. Learn the hard way ?? After the disappointment and some frustration of doing it the wrong way, you learn something you didn't know before. At least you're lucky to be in a position where you can fix your mistakes. Otherwise, like most, it's an expensive experience. Live & Learn 👍
Is there a cvar value you can change in the settings for that sensor to increase the time it waits for the signal from the switch? It may be that the mill is not waiting long enough for the switch to return good to the controller causing it to error out. Someone may have altered the start up routine when the switch went bad the first time. As it works after initial powerup it would seem that it's a wait state / software issue - not a hardware issue.
With the X Axis error, it could be a sticking home switch, clean and lube it. Also since you removed the motor/coupler it could be grid offset. Zero return, home single axis the X axis with 5he position screen visible and after it homes you should have .125 inch or less for distance to go. Great job on the trans by the way
Thanks for the info, i did try the grid offsets and i re did them multiple times on all axis but this did not get rid of the issue, as for the switch it looks brand new so i think someone thought the same thing you did Thanks Marc
