@war_gamer thank you. I realized I make a lot of minor errors myself so I started making videos on how to plays so I can learn the rules better. Lol. That's what wargaming is, I realized over the years learning to master these games is a pleasant journey one CRT at a time!
Those pole bits sticking out from both wheels appear in the warlords official diagram too, but I'm skeptical their suppose to be sticking outward as I can't find them in any actual howitzer photo I looked for online. When I uploaded the official diagram to ChatGPT it said "The bits sticking out from the wheels in the construction diagram are not meant to be part of the real gun's final appearance. They serve as attachment points for assembling the model. In reality, the US M2A1 105mm Howitzer wheels do not have such protruding bits.". I cut mine off by mistake! :D
Ahhh... Compass Games. This looks fun, Matt. Will poke around and see what else there is about the game. Looks like you did a great series here. Looking forward to see more about Compass Games stuff. Take care. ~K
I use that exact Vallejo Grey Sand texture paint for my ground work too. In fact I use it no matter what color I want it in the end. It can be tinted if need be or like you did add a wash or contrast type paint over it once dry to get the final tone. You can also add some tiny pebbles into it when wet for rocks(I use course sand and filter the biggest parts for those rocks).
Thank you very much for this important information. Warlord drops the ball on the important information like model assembly of the kits they make. At least, Italeri is more responsible to the needs of those buying and building their kits. I like Warlord a lot. It's just I expect better from them. Including providing information on constructing kits on their website without the hard sell. Sorry about my rant. I appreciate you and the video on this subject. I have a few other Warlord things to build. Thank you!
Thanks very much - really helpful video, went ahead and ordered the Mission Models products while watching. Pretty expensive for me as being shipped to Japan, I suspect that I'll be able to find a local equivalent (maybe from Tamiya) but will do some research to see what works.
I find it kind of funny how this reviewer was quite impressed by having 26 scenarios. Which is impressive as most skirmish games offer about 10 scenarios. My western campaign has a source of 87 scenarios with a couple containing multiple chapters in the scenario. I keep adding scenarios as I garnish ideas from western novels or watching movies. When a game is being crafted for 20 years, there is going to be a lot of material in the book. I do like their scenario layout. Very clean and precise. This rule book does set the quality bar quite high compared to all the other western skirmish games that are available on the market. My game is not on the market. Maybe one day. Before that could happen, it would need some polishing and an illustrator to provide b\w drawings. I very much enjoy this review. Well done.
Your welcome. I had to watch the video again because it's been a long time since I made it. Lol. I will have more videos with these kits soon. Thank you for watching and commenting
Ok, maybe I’m reading it wrong, but 13.1 seems to be addressing an enemy unit firing a ROF weapon that has the option to fire less than the total rate of fire. So if the weapon could fire 1 or 2 rounds the enemy unit must select 2 rounds. So for instance with your grease gun, if you first rolled an 8, it would miss, but if your next roll was a 2, that’s a hit etc. Again I might be reading that wrong.
That makes the most sense, otherwise why would you ever use ROF if you can only do worse than your lowest number? Just read the rule, and B is correct Friendly units can choose how many shots to take with a weapon, Enemy units have to use the highest number. Also if you use all three of a ROF 3 weapon, you roll to hit individually, and if you hit all 3 hits count, and on the same account if you roll a 9 LA, then a 2 (hit), then a 9 your out of ammo, but the 2 hit still counts.
Ok... So I'm late to the show. Very informative. I always enjoy learning designers thoughts on their rules and miniatures as it give context and helps understanding where they're coming from. However, there is one point of history here I'd like to bring up. Dusters were not always white or even light colored. Granted a dingy off white is, by far, the most common color to find them in, they could range anywhere from a light dingy brown to a darkish grey. While they are all made of light canvas or linen they could also be made of oilcloth which is a canvas or linen material boiled in linseed oil to protect it and to some degree afford it some weather proofing. Oilcloth, depending on how it's done and how refined the process is would darken the material, sometimes considerably. So mostly off white or a yellowish beige but browns and dark mottled greys aren't wrong.
Thanks for the video. Not sure you are still playing this series, but noticed one item with turn initiative. You can pass the first move to the other player, you are not required to move first if you have the initiative.
Please clarify on timing. Say an enemy activates, moves into the LOS of a friendly unit. Lets assume it spots friendly and is not a dummy unit. Now on activation of the friendly unit which also has LOS but the enemy is hidden, in phase 1 it could not shoot (with an impulse shoot action). They are not able to spot until Phase 2. Correct?
This is so helpful thank you!! I am new to wargaming and really loved the theme ansld history behind this one. However the rules were a tiny bit confusing, so watching you guys play it made it all less vague and clear! 🎉
I love the sets and I hope they can make more of them. I don't even play the game. I just like building the models and the fact that they're made out of plastic is wonderful.
