So, nothing would line up and the frame would not extend to the rear of the bed. This would require a tremendous amount of work. The method shown here, only require a small amount of fabrication.

Thanks man! That is a super nice comment. I appreciate you saying that.

This was done so long ago, I don't remember if it has to be a mega cab. The key was the join under the cab. The Mega cab and Quad cab have the same back half. It would make since that a single cab long bed would too, but I don't know that for sure. See if you can get a photo of a frame and see if the joint is in the same place. It would be even better if you could take a few measurements. Dodge/RAM would want to make these frames as modular as possible. It would make since they are the same. I just don't know that for 100%.

This is a Turbosmart BOV kit. They have a sensor that ties into the acceleration pedal (gas pedal). The kit works based on change (or speed of change) in pedal position, not a pressure differential of pressure between a throttle plate. This particular truck is not running an EGR throttle plate.

@@hpdiesel4538 thank you. My truck does have a throttle plate (operated by vacuum). I try to figure out how I can make the bov work with the use of the vacuum system. Tomorrow I will measure the vacuum system to read out what it has.

@@adminjohn4336 If you are running vacuum, then a standard BOV would work. The vacuum line would go to the top of the valve. When your throttle body closes, vacuum goes up. As it goes up, it would open the valve, releasing the boost pressure. Are you running a diesel or gas?

@@hpdiesel4538 I have a Ford 2.5 Tdci (turbo diesel common rail intercooler) 368 bhp 700+ rw Nm and I have surge pffftt pffftt when I shift. Nice sound, but bad for the turbo. The turbo had a fully upgrade last week. I run 30-35 psi max. The tuning is not ready yet, they made a few mistakes....

@@adminjohn4336 Very cool. That's a lot of horsepower out of a small package! Basically, a blow off value worked by pressure differences. The intake boost pressure is applied to the bottom of the value trying to force it up. On top, there is another valve with a spring pushes down to keep it closed. In addition to the spring on top, gas engines run intake manifold pressure to the top. As boost rises, there is boost pressure on both sides of the value and the spring keeps the valve closed. When the throttle closes, intake pressure goes negative (vacuum). This means there is boost pressure and vacuum trying to open the valve and only the spring pressure holding it closed. The pressure differential easily overcomes the spring and the blow off valve opens. In my past life, I would put drive pressure (back pressure) in the top of the BOV. Drive pressure goes to almost zero when you let off the throttle, resulting in the boost pressure overcoming the BOV spring. You just have to make sure you cool and clean the drive pressure before you put it into the BOV head. Depending on how your vacuum works, you may be able to just use vacuum.

I’m not the right person to ask. But stiffer sway bars would help with roll. Adding air bags will allow you to level the vehicle is it isn’t sitting level. I think stiffer springs may help as well. Even adjustable shocks might help. But I would talk to a suspension company.

@@hpdiesel4538 i have heard many negative things about stretching wheel axels. that's why i asked you. thanks for replying. very helpful. thanks

@@buyhighselllow2209 the problems with stretching a vehicle has little to do with your question. Your concern is more about vehicle width and suspension dynamics. High center of gravity vehicles can be very tippy. They are tippy side to side not forwards and backwards. That is a width and stability issue.

@@hpdiesel4538 yes. someone suggested extending the width of tires and length of that rod on which wheels are attached. but the second step is the one every talks negative about. sorry my english is not good.

I have not done one on a 6.7. Most of the time they try and produce bolt on kits. So, hopefully not bad.

That is a ton of additional work. Way outside the scope of this article.

I made little pucks to fit into the factory cab mounts. (full article here www.dieselarmy.com/engine-tech/other-tech/video-install-diy-mega-cab-long-bed-conversion/ ) and used those to base the measurements off of. I also took a number of measurements off the ground and various other points. Because the frame slips into the other, the horizontal alignment was easy. Making sure the frame was square actually wasn't that bad. My first shot I think I was like 1/8 or less off. Couple hammer taps and it went right in. The factory pretty much made this job easy. The female ends are flared only enough to fit the amount of frame necessary. So, it wasn't like I could go to much.

@@hpdiesel4538 Thank you for the article and your explanation. I have one other question (because I'm kind of automotively stupid, I suppose. I love this idea of extending a MegaCab with an 8 foot bed. That's why I'm asking these questions. So...if you are adding an 8 foot bed and extending the wheel base (I assume the wheelbase becomes something akin to that of a regular Ram with an 8 foot bed, plus a little more (the additonal inches of the MegaCab that the regular doesn't have), then what happens with the transmission? Isn't it extended to meet up with the real axel, and if so, does this process, say with an Aisin transmission, compromise the quality of the transmission in any way? Maybe I just don't understand where exactly a transmission extends to. Any understanding of this would be much appreciated.

@@FredHerrman Hey Fred. If you are extending the frame like I did in this video/article, then you are only extending the rear section. The engine, transmission and if you have one, transfer case would remain in the stock location. This truck is a two wheel drive so there is no transfer case. In my case, there is a carrier bearing about half way back that holds the two piece driveshaft. I extended the rear section of the driveshaft about 14 inches if I remember correctly. That additional length won't make a difference in this application. Now if this was a 4 wheel drive and a transfer case was used, I'm not sure if there would be a factory carrier bearing or not. But I would just do as the factory quad cab long beds do. If a 4 wheel drive truck uses a carrier bearing, then I would add one. If you are really not sure, just talk to a driveshaft shop. The will need max RPM (of the shaft not engine), horsepower, torque, and length. From that will tell you the diameter of the shaft and recommend either a one piece or two. That make since?

@@FredHerrman Actually, if you pause the video right at the beginning, you can see the end of the transmission, front section of the driveshaft, and the carrier bearing (where the fuel tank is). All of these components stay in the same location. Then a new rear driveshaft was added, but this will give you an idea of what it looks like behind the transmission.

@@hpdiesel4538 Okay, I understand now. I really appreciate it, thank you very much!

that will work. the key is that the donor frame is a long bed.

It is not a one piece driveshaft. If you look at the images closer, you will see that the front section of the driveshaft remained the same. I only replaced/extended the rear section. And that was like 18 inches or something (long time ago). I know of quite a few of these conversions and none of them have driveshaft vibration issues.

Yes, but you might be better off just finding a short bed frame, and moving everything over. One key if you decide to cut the frame, make sure your rear leaf springs will work and/or get the rear leaf springs from the long bed.

Honestly I don't know.

Yeah, I cut the wiring harness and just added a section to each wire. I was originally planning on keeping the donor wiring harness and splicing it in (one splice instead of two) but I must have thrown it away.

@@hpdiesel4538 where about a did you cut it because we have a short in the rear once in a while with the rear lights. I’ve peeked underneath but it all looks stock. We own that truck now. Runs great.

@@rubenalberto4919 If I remember correctly (been a long time ago), I spliced in the wires around where the fill neck is. I didn't have the fuel tank in at the time, but I think that is about where I did it.

The key here is the distance, "the rear mount to the bed" is the same. So, splicing in the frame section under the cab will ensure the bed doesn't hit the cab and it looks factory. Just need to make sure the rear mount on the cab is in the same place when you re-weld it.

So is your girlfriend

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Here is the link to the story on the wheels www.dieselarmy.com/engine-tech/wheels-tires/project-mclb-heavy-hauler-gets-new-american-force-twister-wheels/

How did that go? That's why I'm here. Plan on doing that shortly

Here is a full article on the engine build up. www.dieselarmy.com/engine-tech/engine/engine-build-creating-a-wolf-in-sheeps-clothing/

I'm a blue oval guy too. I wish I had the extra room in my Super Duty, too.

They are American Force wheels

Thanks

I agree. Bug im sure not everyone knows that.

bed was sprayed with a liner.

Not sure if the frame on a 1500 is the same as a 2500/3500. You would need to do some measuring.