Got some great ideas from this for the Fire Prism I just recieved, thank you. Doing my prisms a LOT different, keeping them clear, candy red, light coat of Alclad chrome (or copper?), and using SMD LED inside....because that's what struck me when I looked at the models. lol Another useful tool for taking care of those sharp/weird edges is a glass file usually used for nail salons. Remove very little material and polish behind them. And they are dirt cheap.
I’m just finishing up my figure, it’s really cool to see how much similar and different our approaches were to painting him, those greenish/ yellowish browns really make a huge impact with gold. I like the way you did his face, i started with a sickly flesh tone then did a very dilute contrast purple then dry brushed with the flesh tone again then i used that same contrast to pick up the scars on his head.
Comment for the algorithm! Seriously, great job. I am getting into Full Spectrum Dominance at 6mm with my dad, and I've never done anything that small. Luckily, the scale model and model train enthusiasts have plenty of techniques to share for me online!
11:41 this is honestly how I highlight horde armies with a lot of different textures just on a much smaller scale. The main one being I have a horde army of 3d printed Krieg and capes are an absolute bitch to highlight and layer up most of the time bit I do preshading on the volumes with imprimatura which is essentially slap chop, then spray over contrast or xpress paint, then I highlight with oil paints on all the raised edges of the capes and use a dry brush to blend out the transitions and let me tell you its ridiculously quick and smooth. 0 effort and like 10 minutes per cape and it looks soooo good.
Bro your husband can sculpt mini’s? If you ever don’t want him I am more than available. Seriously though glad to see more representation in the warhammer community I think we honestly really need it. Also the finished model is unfathomably sick
For newbies to painting here is a quick overview. Vallejo is always a good bet either game color or model color. It has the widest paint range of any brand but can be hard to get in the US. Normal to creamy consistency, can be thinned easily, consistent across the range in terms of paint behavior, mildly matt finish, can be used for drybrushing well, and good but no exceptional coverage. The hobby standard in essence. Warpaints Fanatic is probably my go to recommendation for beginner painters. It has a wide range of colors is and a double triad system which makes it really easy to choose a good shadow and highlight color. Very creamy consistency great for more complex techniques like wet blending, covers very well, thins very well, behaves very consistently, and can be used for dry brushing to great success. The only dig is that while they have a lot of colors its not as big as the vallejo range and they sacrifice a bit of saturation for their great coverage. Make sure you do not buy the og warpaints make sure its the fanatic range because personally I’d rather castrate myself with a rusty spoon then use og warpaints ProAcryl from monument hobbies is my personal favorite but it has some caveats. The paint is much more liquidy and less creamy, has a longer drying time, loves to soak up water on the wet pallet, and can be weird to dry brush with because of its liquidy nature and extreme mattness. ProAcryl also has the smallest range of the ones mentioned. All that being said ProaAcryl has by far the most coverage and saturation of any of the paints on this list its actually unbelievable. Normally paints sacrifice coverage for saturation or vice versa but not for ProAcryl. They cover the best on this list in one or two coats and have unbelievably rich saturation especially in colors that are hard to make deeply saturated. When you think of the color red its bold pyrrole red, when you think of purple its proacryl vv royal purple. You want a super saturated dark jade or a mind blowingly bright yellow, pro acryl is the paint range. Ak third gen is also pretty great. Super wide range of paints like vallejo but with a bit more saturation, a bit more liquidy, and a longer working time. Unfortunately they go throw an airbrush like an absolute bitch so if you plan on airbrushing these might be a pass. Personally I think a good alternative to ak 3rd gen is using warpaints fanatic for basecoating and general work and moving to proacryl when you need super saturated colors. Two Thin Coats is a great great option if you like GW citadel paints. They behave similarly and have the borderline satin sheen that gw paints have. Two thin coats dont have a huge range of colors but the ones they do have are right on the money in terms of classic fantasy colors.
Petrol Blues are some of my favorite, but I haven't seen a good one from any of the popular acrylic brands. Would you mind sharing which one you used for your basecoat? Lovely work by the way!
Iso alcohol can be used for cleaning brushes and csn also be used with milliput to make a liquid milliput to brush into small gaps for a filler that can be sanded when dry. It can also be used to strip models which may help with purchasing used models and repainting with your own artistic flare :)
Ove this sort of content. I really want to understand how different uncoat / primer colours impact the top coats and how best to sect the primer colours for best effect and the theory behind it. Ie some artists may recommend basecoating in purple if painting green and sketching in pinks and yellows are lighter tones to give a highlight to the purple shade as purple is the opportise to green (i guess). Then paining green over this base supposedly gives a colour that has some lighter and darker tones (if applied translucent I guess) to give some guide on the areas for shading. Is this right or am I barking up the wrong tree?
You can use those same pipe cleaners to make Italian Cypress trees. Just make sure the pipe cleaner fur points upwards. If you massage PVA glue into them you can also get more sparse trees.
You and marco sold me on using this over unvarnished Acryllic! Awesome! So much stuff out there says its impossible... sounds like they just didn't let it dry enough?
Tried this. Total mess unfortunately. Im using black oil paint on a teal tank. The oil and white spirit mix goes into the grooves ok, but when i try to clean it up with a brush it comes out again. Its left smudgy stained grey black bits on my teal paint
I had the idea for a “Ravers of Slaanesh” Warhammer army with a psychedelic paint scheme. This was IMMEASURABLY helpful as a basis for the color scheme and overall aesthetic I want for the army as a whole. Thank you! Beautiful work! 🤩❤️👍
@@GRGMiniatures Thanks! I've only painted one Poxwalker, still very noob. So I'm not really sure what I want yet. Just browsing guides for things that look good. Hopefully I can combine all the different elements from people who inspire me into something coherent. The only Scale75 in stock in my country is like £19 per bottle for some reason. Any idea what else could give a similar effect? Edit: Ordered from another country.
I'm currently building this finicky little team and will definitely be trying out this style. Really lovely work. Hope to see your take on more blood bowl teams. Thank you for taking the time to post.
Man! This is a great education in painting and color theory. Thank you for this. I'd like to ask, which Liquitex Acrylic Gouache colors would you use for your cyan, magenta and yellows if you were trying to recommend a core set of colors for someone to start using?
What's your experience been with priming using the molotow paints via airbrush? I tried them once after hearing good things, but didn't have great results, and they seemed to not stay on the mini too well. Probably user error, as it was my first time with an airbrush and it was just an airbrush that came free with the compressor, but yeah, curious to hear the thoughts of someone with a bit more experience!
I've always had really great experience with them. The only time I've found they didn't stick was if there was dirt or grease on the model. Normally just wiping with some kitchen paper sorts that, or in extreme cases a bit of isopropyl alcohol (another great product to have on hand, by the way) Another common issue with airbrush priming from beginners is being too far from the model when you spray. Of course you don't want to be flooding the mini with too much paint, but you do want to be close enough that the paint it going on wet. If you're too far away the tiny particles can partially dry in the air before they hit the mini, which obviously inhibits adhesion! Let me know how it goes! :)
Sorry for the slow response! I think everything from 400 to 2000 depending on what I'm doing and how important that smooth finish is. The packs of modellers sanding sticks you can get always have everything you need in them!
I d love a video on how to prep 3d printed figurines. I hate this step of the hobby and often realise there are marcs on minis after i m done with the paint job 😢
Great list, very comprehensive. I know it would likely get covered when you get around to a paintbrush dive deeper video, but I struggled to get hold of a WNs7 size 0,1 or 2 for quite a while a few years back. While WN are very nice brushes, I would advocate the Rosemary & Co s33. Half the price of WN and in my opinion just as good. They also do sable/synthetic blends which so far have been great workhorse brushes for me.
Really solid list. You could go on forever adding items to it, like a water pot and cloth for cleaning brushes between paints, an empty jar for all your sprue offcuts (to save for making goo!) a mask when priming, etc etc but for just getting a new painter off to a good start this nails it all.
