Is this part located in the rear gate? I would like to see if my gears are broken. On my W211 the rear gate cannot be open by remote or by the door switch. When I try to do it I can hear the gears-motor working but failing to release the door latch. However, I can close the rear gate by power switch on the rear door? I can also open and close the gate by hand. Just curious what is preventing the door from being unlatched when trying to use the remote and the door power switch located on the driver's door (not the rear gate) On my W211 wagon I can't open the rear gate by remote. However, I can close the door by power button built in the rear gate. I can also open and close the gate by hand. When I try to open the gate by remote or by the power button located in the driver's door I can hear the gears - motor working but just failing to release the latch. I'm reluctant to take this to the dealership due to potentially high cost since I do not really need this feature very much but just curious to see what is preventing the door to be open by remote or door sw
Thanks for asking, but I'm not a technician and I don't even have the car any more... I'd probably look for a similar vehicle locally and see if you can buy the latch assembly, if that's what is giving you problems.
The walls of the accumulator are thicker than I imagined, what a wonderfully disastrous technology the sbc is, it's stops the magically when it works and when is doesn't well the last thing you'll need is a new sbc, it happened to a guy I know he used the foot parking brake and down shifting before he finally rammed into the car in front, my W211 is a automatic needs a new sbc and new brake lines front to back, loved the car won't sell it won't drive it and damn sure I won't be getting it repaired not worth the money. Pity she's a beast and beautiful. Thanks for the video now I know.
hello, i have a problem with my sbc, i have the code c235c, is that i can change the sbc with another which does not have the same reference? thanks for the reply.
Sorry, I'm not the guy to be asking... I do some of the work on my own cars but I'm not qualified to give you information like that. Thanks for watching though!
I am on my 3rd one in less than a few months. First one didnt last 30 sec. 2nd one lasted about 1200 miles. If this 3rd one is just as noisy and does not hit the 6.5 psi I am done with the 1791. Either my luck is bad or these are junk.
An accumulator "stores" the pressure produced by the SBC pump. It's like a hydraulic version of a capacitor. The ABC hydraulic suspension also has accumulators which do the same and which also go bad with age. The backside of the bladder is filled with high pressure nitrogen. Eventually the rubber bladder fails and allows the nitrogen to escape. These should be considered consumables much like brake pads and rotors. It's just that they don't need replacing as often as brakes. I have new accumulators for my ABC sitting on the shelf, ready for when each eventually fails. Looks like I should get one for my SBC as well!
good info that the backside of the bladder is filled with high pressure nitrogen. By the way, my car shows pressure 80 when working. Maybe is a little low :-(
Great video! Did removing the bottom metallic lock part cause any permanent damage or can you just open it without risk? I opened the top plastic part and found all gears are fine, so my suspicion is that there is something wrong with the sensors you mentioned in the bottom part (my lock intermittently doesn't recognize it has to close). Thanks for any advise (I don't feel like forking out close to 250 euro for a part)!
It looks like an High Pressure Citroen Hydraulik suspension part. In the Citroen System are green Spheres that contains a thick rubber sphere inside and Outerside there is N gas as the High Pressure counterpart to the Hydraulik Oil. This Sphere looks identical to the Citroen part. There is no Pressure in the Sphere in the Video. The Pressure goes thru tiney holes in the Rubber Bladder.
Hello, my car is MB E-class, w211, I am looking to buy the pressure accumulator that is part of the SBC / ABS module because it is damaged. The part is made by Bosch, its number is 0265202063. Since I can not find it anywhere, the closest number to it I find on the internet is 0265202070. Is this part with the number 0265202070 interchangeable with № 0265202063?
look at my post under Billj3cub at: www.w8forum.dk/forum_posts.asp?TID=1773&PN=1&title=the-shock-treatment-thread, for a fuller description and more permanent solution to what is going on in the W8 with a P0012 code issue.
I looked up the website and I was wondering if if the kit could just be a plug and play without making any changes? I kinda just want to remove bolts and unplug wires, then plug them back in and bolt in play?
jaime de la rosa thanks for checking it out! Spark plug wires are the hurdle... I don’t have plug and play wires unfortunately. Crimping the terminals on a set of Taylor wires isn’t difficult, but if you have a set of VW wires with the metal ends and built in handles, you may as well use those to save $. You’d just get the msd terminals, snip the coil ends off and attach the new ends. Is there someone local to you who could do that for you?
It didn't work out... I'm not much of an aluminum welder anyways, and this is a pretty tiny piece. I ended up finding a wagon that was being parted out locally, and bought the latch for a really good price.
I have owned the w8 and 1.8t the only difference is the space to work with when something goes wrong and cam adjusters on the 1.8t go out pretty regularly. Also w8 is fun and has power. W8 over 1.8t all day plus it's old and parts are cheaper now even a whole engine costs about the same.
This proves what the SSPs say - that the thermostat has a failsafe mode that will begin to open at 100 Celsius. Note that the thermostat didn't reach full-open position until 250 F (121 C), so don't assume that your thermostat is working normally even though the ECU says it's not. The normal operating temperature of the W8 engine is controlled by the ECU to center around 90 C, and varies it by several degrees up or down according to engine operating conditions. And yes... W8 enthusiasts should check out W8Forum.dk
I had this problem on my 2006 Audi a6 with 3.2 motor I ran a Ross tech diagnostic and it showed exhaust bank one (right side) was causing miss fire on that side and not retarding cam far enough car ran rough. I took mine out and there were little pieces of soft metal in the actuator I shocked it with 12v from battery charger on 2 amps (Low setting) picking little pieces out of actuator every few mins and put it back in and it works fine. Pieces of soft metal looked like filter screen material no idea where it came from. You prolly don't have to take actuator out but I kinda knew it was clogged with something. Very helpful Video thanks Larry
This is a widely accepted and successful way to fix the majority of W8 cam adjuster problems. I did this to my car when the adjusters failed and saved thousands over the VW-suggested solution, which is to remove and/or replace the engine.
I apparently survived the Icebear W300... since they wore out in 2 seasons. Snow tires usually last me 2 seasons tops, depending on the number of road trips for snowboarding, along with a 50 mile daily commute. I also have a dedicated winter wheelset.
