Thank you, I am please with it, didn't want to over detail the layout, i think this is just enough I will be having a look at the Jinty soon, with a clean and a run in, hopefully will get it to running how i would like it.
Hiya - As you said it is 2nd hand - I've noticed something straight away something doesn't sit right - it seems to have a new outer sleeve but the box inside looks a lot older than the sleeve itself??? & the paperwork looks newer as well - could be a mish-mash of bits - not 100% sure thou...🤔Lovely Loco thou 🙂🚂🚂🚂
Hi yes this the original box and associated paperwork, I have a couple of other hornby models from this age, and they have the same box and inner sleeve, I don't like this type of inner sleeve. The newer design is much better. Thank you for taking time to watch. all the best
Sorry to say, it's got mazak rot, well known problem with this model....it's the metal motor clamp fitting to which Hornby don't do any replacements. I have had exactly the same problem with mine. Some people have been able to 3D print parts but I'm not sure that's a solution
Tbf to Hornby, when I acquired a couple of T9s and the mazak had destroyed the housing i contacted their services and they sent a replacement. It is slightly poor on manufacturers not to make replacement parts for those that are known issues... My bunch of class 31s would have been easier to save with a new chassis 😂@@PaulsRailwayModels-vz9oz
Interesting video. I had the original tender version of this which was Great Runner. I then got two of the locomotive driven versions. Both of those had similar problems with the coupling and gearing like this one. From new. They both went back for a refund so you are doing the right thing.
I am sending back for a refund, I think hornby had great loco's in the past, never a fan of the tender driven, but I do have one from 1978 and this worked as it should 40 years later, Thank you for watching and glad you enjoyed.
@@PaulsRailwayModels-vz9ozhow do you intend on sending back? Do you mean to Hornby? Or to whoever you bought it from ? If it was an eBay you will struggle. I've had loads sell on mazak locos and just claim ignorance after.
@@PaulsRailwayModels-vz9oz ah amazing. That was good of them to do that. I've not been as lucky on a couple of sellers but was fun to learn to fix them with bicarb and super glue 😂
Yep, I've actually got the same model. They were excellent for their time, and from 3 feet away, they still hold their own these days, unless they're side-by-side with a Bachmann or Accurascale version. Bit noisy and suck a lot of juice, though. Just got to keep them well lubricated and cleaned, especially those brass wheels. The later ones, with additional pickups, are the best. Replacement motors can be fitted relatively easily (see OOBill's videos on the subject). It's a shame those huge "D" couplings weren't screwed - or even riveted - on, as the loco would look much better with a detailed front end. But this does mean permanently defacing the model from its original state due to the coupling issue.
With an 060 it will always struggle on short insulfrog points, the DCC concepts track rubber is less abrasive than the PECO and tends to polish the rails. I now always clean from the toe of the point and go left to right in ONE direction as the back and fourth can dislodge the point blades as i found out which caused a huge amount of work as it was wired and ballasted. Enjoying your channel.
Thank you for the tip, i will have a look for the DCC concepts track rubber, and thank you for watching, I was thinking do I change the fiddle yard before its too late, to electro frog points and only have two points. I am only thinking about this as I do only want 0-6-0 running on this layout
@@PaulsRailwayModels-vz9oz Hi Paul, Electrofrog medium radius will really help but ideally we need a decoder with a small stay alive even for 2-3 seconds would be ideal for these issues we all have.
@@ngaugefouroaksstreetstatio6932 I have decided to change the points on the fiddle yard, I will have to do an update on this once I have finished it again. I did buy some 6 pin ZEN Decoders with Stay alive but still too big to fit in the N gauge, I will have to look around for a smaller stay alive.
I have a few old Lima models, 2 class 37s and a 47 from my old railway layout . The bodies are really good and the class 47 looks like a 47 ,Heljan please note. The mechanisms were never great and I have upgraded the 47 and one of the 37s with a newer Hornby chassis and the other 37 now has a VI trains chassis. All run really well.
I did sell all my old lima models, a long time back, but after buying this class 37. I forgot how good the tooling was and how good Lima made the bodies, I have got on order a couple of Class 47's as well now. and I will look at upgrading the motor on one of those to compare the differance.
I don't know all the history on the class 50's. I do think Dapol did a great job with this model. One of the things which made me buy this model. I was at the Great Central Railway and they have a class 50 Royal Oak which was running that day.
Hi, better testing now before you connect everything. We all have point issues. May I suggest using isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush cleaning every part of the points, especially where the switch rail touches the stock rails. Then with power off, use a fine point or scalpel blade. Run along the insides of the switch rails as dust, track rubber fragments etc get caught, even over the guide rails, any debris can lift a loco even 0.1mm is enough to break connectivity. I was going to suggest vacuuming after a track rubber use, then you did it. Another cause is making certain that track is completely flat, check with a metal rule. Any peaks and troughs in the track can cause issues especially with fixed wheel steamers. Diesel / elecs with BO-BO bogies will run better. If poss a stay alive will help in the jinty loco, if theyll fit of course. Hoping that helps
I will get all the track point blades cleaned better, as I need this to run faultless, thank you for the tips I have IPA on order now. thank you for watching all the best Paul
Nice review, I enjoy your channel. Bought one of those grey Farish 37s because of your review, very pleased with it. Still trying to guess the accent, though. Midlands? Maybe Leicester? I'm probably miles off!
Thats all part of their charm, like hi end performance cars all have a their own distinct sound that the engineering produces. the way to make them quieter is to run them to death, after about 5-10 years they do start to lose their whine. Even the 67 with its 4 axle drive / can motor has a very distinct sound compared to the new stuff .
Hi thank you for watching, and I love the detail of this model. I do watch Sams Trains not all videos just the ones which interest me, I have always tested Loco's for slow crawls, for over 20 years as I need them to work on small layouts, All the best have a great evening.
I always have the centre axle on both bogies as power collectors. It reduces the stalls over Insulfrogs. I have what I call my "SuperLima" - 2 power bogies in the one model - a bit of cut and shut, but can pull anything. That also leaves me with a dummy motorless model. I also have two Limas permanently connected, with wires between the two to increase the power collection footprint.
I will have a look at using the Centre axle, as a pickup as this was always a problem, with lima the lack of pickups, a little better on the latter models, thank you for the tip, I bet the two motor one pulls well. all the best, Paul
I always use mu Lima class 20s in tandem (with disc indicators showing "through freight") and as you say, they can pull just about anything! Just need to keep those wheels clean...
Very Good - Me too - I have not been to Cromford Wharf in many years either - it's good to see that they still have that Brake Van & Wagon there!!! @ 8:33 - It's good to see that they have still got the Height Barrier in Place!!! 😊🚂🚂🚂
Cant beat the Lima models, over 47 years of operating them , detailing them up etc tells me they are the gold standard for reliability, performance & maintainence. The trick with the Limas is the more they run the better they work , the motors are designed to run , run & run & run & when youve run it , then run run some more. forget that Hornby railroad tosh,cheap motors , poor grade metal wheels are no substitute for proven Italian engineering. Model Railways existed long before Bachmann & Hornbys move to China , some of the finest exhibition layouts ever built all used the Lima models, its all we had so we got on with it. Nothing on the models that a sharp blade , some etch brass parts, wire handrails , pipes , screw link coupling , brass airhorns etc doesnt improve. The models are a railway modellers dream.
You are spot on. All my Lima locos just are great runners, reliable and require little maintenance. They are really easy to maintain with no faffing on with access and electronics. They look good despite the lack of detail. They were the mainstay of many exhibition layouts.
I did get this one from a Collector who didn't run it very much, just sat in its box most of the time, He had lots of lima for sale but I just can't afford to buy them all. all the best Paul
This is what I do now. Whilst I have a couple of Accurascale, Bachmann and an ancient Hornby R751, the rest are Lima's, in order to prodi e colour and variety at a relatively low cost. Mind you, some of these locos are now on sale for £70ea. Crazy!
The Lima tooling was actually excellent for its time and available in many many liveries. But the motors were not good and very noisy Vitrains used to make a replacement chassis set specifically for Lima Class 37 I now use the Hornby Railroad Models to do this though you need to run them in well and add some weight to improve performance I think this is why you see lots of railroad bodies on sale on ebay?
I agree the lima tooling was excellent, not just on this model. and much better than Hornby at the time, this is why Hornby use the old Lima tooling on the rail road models now, Hornby have a better driving bogie now for Railroad, and improved the pickups. The motor and pickups was always a problem on the Lima models. I forgot about Vitrains what did happen to them. as they did have a excellent drive train.
The motors are superb bits of engineering , they will last a lifetime. The materials used in their construction means they will never wear away , all the cogs, housing are the same material. Just superbly designed & engineered gear , been using these models for nearly 50 years , never had to chuck one away yet. VI trains (ex Lima employees did a good a job in modernising them, stupidly Hornby when they bought Lima only bought up what was in production & not what was in development & so the new 37/47 chassis that Lima where working on stayed in Italy & the new company took it from there) Worst days work ever when Hornby bought up the range & started retooling the chassis with those awful motors, cheap grade metal wheels & took all the weight out. What goes in their heads at Margate fair boggles the mind.
It never ceases to amaze me that people buy high quality models like this, only to run them on what looks like SetTrack and then they complain that it doesn't run very well! This is 'clickbait', not a fair evaluation. Try putting it on larger radius turnouts instead of toy-trainset curves and you'll find these locos run very well.
This is how it came out of the box; all models are manufactured to run on 2nd radius curves. Peco setrack is 2rd radius so a good test. Most people have to use 2nd radius, due to size of rooms and layout constraints. all the other models I have work perfectly on my test track. I will be looking into why this one doesn't run over 2nd radius and trying to fix the problem in the future. as I would like to run this on the new layout once I start building it.
@@PaulsRailwayModels-vz9oz Those are pretty high quality models. Although it 'says' it will run on R2, I personally don't have any expectation that it will which is why I use Peco large radius turnouts and min 4-5ft radius curves. No problems with them. You might use R2 but it is not correct to assume that *most* people use R2!
Hey Paul, it is a pitty for the cutting out....but still a very nice Loco...I have the Southern 900 Eton Schools Class - Great stuff cheers - Elizabeth
Hi Yes as its a well detailed loco, and does look good, I will be giving it a good service, and will add DCC with stay alive. just need to fix the derailing problem first, just wish they hadn't fitted traction tyres, as well. The loco doesn't need them.
I used to have an old hornby LMS 2P 4-4-0 and it kept stopping on the points, so the only way I could get it to work over the points was to run it at speed.
That's pretty Dissapointing. Broken off parts in the box is very poor. You shouldn't need to remove the base plate to remove the body. Unacceptable Hornby. Send it back?
If this is a brand new, but old stock loco that you've had for a while, then it does need running in. But before you do it, please re-lubricate the moving parts. The factory lube may have dried up over time, causing hesitant running. Loose parts are a quality control issue, but it's probably too late to complain now! Oh, and please read the instructions first.
I do love N gauge but I think it's more difficult than oo ,l had to go back to oo gauge because of my bad eye sight it's looking good, All the best Colin from Mossend railway oo
Hi Colin, yes N gauge is a lot harder, I do mix it up with an N gauge layout now and again, its amazing what you can get in the small space with N gauge.
I sometimes get through two backscenes before I am happy, this time just one and 24 hours later still no creases and wrinkles, this glue is amazing , I should have used in the past.
Thank you, this was the first time using this glue, only got the glue in the post 2 hours before I made the video, on Friday very happy with the results. I recommend this product when you do your backscene.
I have both the older and newer told Bachmann class 20's the older one still stands up pretty well against the newer model. They don't have lights but they're heavier and I think run just as well if not better than the newer tooled model.
I must say this is a great model, I have a few class 20's this is the only one with sound i have. I don't have the latest tooled models to compare, but I think the class 20's from Bachmann look great,run great and match the real thing well.
This is From amazon, a little bit to thick for N gauge Better for OO gauge, but works ok. its decription on Amaxon is Florist Wire Silver 22 Gauge Flexible , Binding Wire Garden Floral Wire
Nice little engine, i used to be a member of an "n gauge" model railway club, and i always thought that the couplings looked oversize and too light, which causes the non coupling issue. there are "magnetic couplings" available now, so maybe that would solve the coupling issue.
Glad it helped, and it is a nice model, I also found out this is the version one, the version two you can turn the cab lights on / off, something to look out for.
Great work Paul. Such a good end effect. The hinge on the layout to make it easier to access the wiring is an excellent idea too. Awesome. Thought provoking video. Happy Modelling
Hi They are a mix of Kit bashed and scratch built , using Photoshop , and Scalescenes, I am working on two new building's to add , a small Engine shed and office. , thank you for the nice comments
Great video as always. For me realistic water is the only way to go I did the deep pour of the canal which I mention realistic water in layers is superior and safer. I took my Coastal scene up an extra notch by adding a touch of bioluminescence. It was a little bit of fun and some good results. Anyway stay safe. I look forward to seeing the next one.
I have been informed PECO narrow gauge wagons share the same de-railing issues anyone have any info on that. The close coupling issue is one I tackled with my own range of narrow gauge rolling stock, that have been on test for 8 months and seem to have passed the smell test. One of our first releases when we go live Mid Aug/Sept 24..... By the way our 009 axle box's are a bit more detailed and have GWR on them ;) As for the packaging.... that is very poor, the product should come in blisters.
The wagons look very well printed, but as delivered they are not intended to be fully finished RTR products. They can be made to look a lot better when putting some work in. Remove the fine spider threads which you see on the underframes and some other parts, and sand smooth the van roof and underframe parts where you can get in reasonably. Light scraping with a pointed scalpel blade gets you in the difficult to get to places. The wagon bodies are good as they are. Then some painting in the colours of choice, maybe a light coat of spray putty on the underframe to hide the layering of the printing proces. I would add some 10 grams of weight to each wagon, in the form of loads or when leaving them empty use 'Liquid Lead' glued to the underside which is fine lead shot sold in bottles to add weight in those places where you can't use lead off cuts or wheel balancing weights. These wagons are a nice initiative and a great addition to the era 1 locomotives and coaches sold by the major brands
It is one of my favourite locos now in N Gauge , I will have to get a more up to date one in OO as I have the 1978 model from Hornby, Thank you for watching. glad you enjoyed.
Try using 128 speed steps - it's been available for 20+ years and will give much better speed control than you are getting here. Quite often, sound packages works better on 128 than 28. 28 speed steps is equivalent to DC control! Since when does a guards whistle sound randomly and on a loco startup ?
@@PaulsRailwayModels-vz9oz There will always be better performance on 128 steps because the difference between each speed step is much smaller and more granular.
