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Please help I'm crocheting size M. My st count is 102 at the 5th row, I than went ahead and repeated rows 4&5, 6 times. I have a st count of 162 by the time a repeat row 4 again I will have 172 stitches. But the pattern says I should've 232 at this stage. What am i doing wrong?😢
Hi! I am happy to help. It sounds like you have not repeated Rows 4-5 enough times. When the pattern says to repeat Rows 4-5 six more times, that means you will repeat that PAIR of rows six more times, not including the first time you worked them. So after finishing Rows 1 through 5, yes, you should have 102 stitches. Then, when you work Row 4 again, then Row 5 again, working those two rows counts as repeating Rows 4-5 one time. We are repeating the pair of rows six additional times, which will add 12 rows to the 5 rows you already had before you began repeating rows 4-5. Then, you'll repeat Row 4 by itself once more, which will give you a total of 18 rows (5+12+1), not including the foundation single crochet we did to begin the project. I hope this helps!
Hi. It is best to determine how much yarn you will need based on length (yards or meters) rather than weight. A 50 gram skein of one brand of yarn in the same thickness category will often contain a different amount of yarn in length than a 50 gram skein of another brand of yarn. If you know how much yarn length you have in yards or meters, I would recommend comparing that amount to the amount of yarn called for in the pattern. You can view the free version of the written instructions, with the amounts of yarn required for each size, at the first link in the video description. I hope this helps!
The hook size that the pattern calls for is a US Size I, or 5.5 mm. (My hook may look large because of the large handle, but it is a 5.5 mm hook.) However, the most important thing is to match the gauge called for in the pattern, so please use whichever hook size gives you the correct gauge for the pattern. I hope this helps!
All of the stitch counts and information needed to make all 9 sizes are given in the written pattern. You can view the free version of the written pattern by visiting the first link in the video description. I hope this helps!
What a fantastic and clear tutorial. Thank you very much. Going to knit these for my grandchildren. Hopefully you have other knitting patterns. You're the best🤗
I'm from Brasil and I used to do the English purl and the Continental knit cause it is the only way i can do it. But as a crocheter i would like to do just the Continental way cause it is faster but it is so hard for me :( Thank you for the video, i'll try again the Continental purl...
The ‘ply’ system of describing yarn thickness can vary some between the UK and Australian yarn weight systems, but 4 ply is likely to be similar or the same as #2 Fine or Sport Weight in the US. I think your 4 ply yarn should work for this project, as long as you match the pattern gauge. I hope this helps!
I find continental very difficult and I've given up on it. Couldn't work with only thumb plus 2 fingers holding the needle (as the index and middle are positioning the yarn), and couldn't move the yarn on right needle backwards easily without creating large gaps in my tension. Too much effort for me but you do make it look so easy. Btw, on English style you don't have to completely let go of right needle, (only beginners tend to do this) you keep your thumb underneath the needle all the time and just extend the index finger for wrapping yarn over.
Whether interchangeable Needles work for you depends on the way you knit. I find them annoying because I have to tighten them after every row and sometimes even halfway through a row because the way I knit twists the needles and causes interchangeables to unscrew. I have given up using them and now use only fixed circulars.
I dont see how a sweater with 90 or so stitches will fit most adults. I struggle to find yarns that will produce a hat sized tube that isnt tight around my head. My husbands head is 3cm bigger so theres no chance. I just dont understand why they cant make these looms with a few more pegs. I tell.you, if someone manages to market.such a product will become very rich very quickly.
You are right, a sweater with 90 stitches will not fit most adults. However, the sweater formula / recipe on my blog gives instructions for joining multiple panels together to make sweaters in larger sizes than what can be made with one panel for the front and one for the back. I hope this helps!
Or you could knit top down and do the ribbing once its off the loom, Wouldnt that be easier?.Those who can knit with needles could opt to do the rib on needles, utilising twisted.or any other of the many style options.
Yes! I have a video on using this technique with color changes here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UjSCCTPMM_I.html I hope this helps!
I have not experienced issues with splintering. I have been using some of these needles for 10 years now, and have not really had quality issues with them. However, I do know that the tension a person knits at and the technique that they are using can affect the amount of wear and tear on wooden needles. Some of the factors include: - The person may be a tight knitter (some don't realize they are a tight knitter, as they have not experienced what a more moderate tension would feel like). - The way that they knit produces a lot of scraping, where the pointy tip is scraping against the tapered part of the tip of the other needle. Most all of the rubbing together should be the shaft sliding against the shaft, if the stitches are being worked on the shaft rather than on the tapered tips. The stitches are meant to be worked on the shaft, and the tapered part of the needle tip is mainly there for ease of inserting the needle. If the stitches are being worked on the tapered part of the needle, then the tips would be scraped against each other much more. I do have a pair or two of needle tips, nearly 10 years old, that have become very slightly rough on the tips, but I believe that was caused by my improper technique and tighter tension from years ago. Since the wood is laminated in layers that run the length of the needle, the tapered tips of the needle is where the ends of the wood 'fibers' are, so more friction from my improper technique may have caused more wear in that area, and the wood would naturally be a bit more susceptible to wear at the tips. I hope this helps!
I am currently making the 3X size and now doing the sleeves. I have counted there will only be 19 rows before the ribbing, which is where I am at, but the sleeve seems way too short. So has the pattern updated and how many rows of the stitch pattern should be made before the ribbing? TIA
Hi. There will be 2" of length added with the ribbing, however, if that is not enough length, you can go back and repeat Round 2 several more times to add however much length you need. I am working on updating the pattern. I hope this helps!
Yes, that is correct. You will repeat that pair of rows 7 more times after the first time you worked those rows. So after you have worked Rows 1-5, you will repeat Rows 4-5 seven more times, which will add 14 rows to the 5 rows you already had. Then, the pattern says to repeat Row 4 once more after that. So at that point, you should have a total of 20 rows (not including the foundation single crochet at the beginning of the pattern). I hope this helps!
Thank you for sharing this, just another little tip that has helped me…when I make the first chain less single crochet I put a stitch holder in it, then when I come to do the invisible slip stitch I can give it a little tug before undoing it and it makes it easier to get the hook in from behind👍😀
I made this sweater when I first learned to knit, and I love the sweater so I made another sweater after I'd knit many other types of sweaters for awhile. You have detailed so much in this tutorial, thank you for working so hard for us to make this beautiful sweater! AND this sweater is nice and warm and cozy!😀
Thank you for the tutorial! I was wondering, why can't you measure the swatch while it's pinned? It would have the same dimensions as it will when it dries, right?
Ideally, it should be the same dimensions when it dries if you haven't stretched it at all when pinning it. However, sometimes the fiber content and stitch pattern combination in the fabric can cause the swatch to contract slightly as it dries. It is just better overall to measure after it has dried, to make sure the measurement is as accurate as possible. You want to get a feel for what the finished fabric will be like when it is dry as well, since most projects will be dry when they are worn or used. I hope this helps!
All of the stitch counts and information needed to make all 9 sizes are given in the written pattern. You can view the free version of the written pattern by visiting the first link in the video description. I hope this helps!
This is very helpful technique but one point to the video, if you use the yarn with more color on the first one instead of pale blue it would be more visible and easier to follow. Thanks for the tips.
All of the yarn requirements and information needed to make all 9 sizes are given in the written pattern. You can view the free version of the written pattern by visiting the first link in the video description. I hope this helps!
All of the stitch counts and information needed to make all the included sizes are given in the written pattern. You can view the free version of the written pattern by visiting the first link in the video description. I hope this helps!
