Incredibly long explanation of how to "repair “ this.. From your he video title I thought it was going in I explain how to repair the broken door release button, but it is in fact on how to replace it.. Would have been helpful if the word "replace" was used in the video title…
Having the same high idle issue. I was advised today to not mess with the low and high screws if at all possible and was advised to look at the choke linkage as being a possible culprit. Crazy thing for me is it idles fine until the air filter cover is placed atop the air filter.
To get a proper running machine you must invest some time learning how to set the low and high parts of a carburator. Once set then adjust the idle speed. I believe I did this in the video. If you have questions, ask and I can see if I can help.
@@MotionDesignStudio Thank you much. Troubleshooting a system via deduction before adjusting low and high is the takeaway I am getting from many, but I do not discount your point. These chainsaws come factory set / tuned and I suppose Ive done very good with this thing up to this point, for it not to act up until now-15 years or so still with original original carb and lines. Guess it is time for me to learn this system, troubleshoot and adjust the low and or high if need be. My issue is high idle after working with the saw a few days in a row. I was a bit rough with it, plopping it onto the ground from a couple feet height, so, who knows. I have replaced the spark plug, air filter and purge bulb. Hopefully my little micro screwdrivers can work to hit the low clockwise. Thats if everything else looks alright. Other weird thing is if I tap the kill switch after the saw has been started, that will also cause the saw to rev some.
@@MotionDesignStudio btw, just figured it out. something real simple I didnt notice when changing the plug and filter- where the trigger wire that runs to the carb is supposed to sit (Between the two black plastic pieces) was instead underneath and laying on top of one of the fuel lines. Guess the friction between fuel line and trigger metal wouldnt allow the metal piece to rest back into the slot, so the trigger was still depressed even after letting go of it.
Whenever you unbolt am engine mounts you should always have the engine supported from above or below. You can use both types of support at the same time or one. Hope this is clear. Follow the steps I take in the video for clarification.
Wow I have enjoyed the whole series so far. I have a 2008 CRV so this is super helpful as I will likely need to do this job in the future! Thanks so much for documenting this whole process!!
Awesome, the car is finished and runs better than ever. I encourage you to watch all the videos from this series as I find mistakes that I have made previously that can be avoided. Also the last two videos still need to be uploaded.
@@RC-Heli835 , It totally understand. I also was frustrated when I was working on this project for the same reason. Why do they have to make this unnecessarily complicated. I have completely dissembled other saws sans any of these special tools. Best of luck and keep me updated on how it goes.
@MotionDesignStudio OK thanks will do! I have access to a bucket truck and was trying to get some big pecan limbs out from over my house while I have it.
Don’t use the corn gas because it will make the diaphragm hard and not run plus destroy the fuel hose 😊😊😊. Change oil regularly and enjoy the heavy weight lifting 😢
Great video. Very informative. Iv never worked on a mini, is there no way of locking the crank to enable you to torque the bolt to spec? No inspection hatch on gearbox to lock flywheel? Its a nightmare when engine designers dont accomadate for such maintenance.
Thanks I could not find one. In the video you can see how paranoid I was doing this without a torque wrench. Following my suggestions as the car has not returned to me since.
"there's no shortage of people telling my that I'm wrong" 9 people caught a stray bullet with that line 😂 thanks for this though, been trying to search for a way to test the VSS just to make sure the electrician I talked to was right that my instrument cluster is the problem. Well, turns out my speed sensor was faulty. Saved me $100. Thanks man.
Respect and best information to start the weekend! Are you quoting me? If yes please share the time stamps when I said this. Thanks for letting me know how this information helped and have a great weekend.
@@visrupt , you are the ONE!. This is one of the perils on making repair videos. So many experts in the comment section ready to deploy their mean spirited comments instead of embracing a cordial discourse.
Awesome video. I'm rebuilding one my friend found in a camper he bought. Unfortunately it had a lean seizure but it wasn't too bad. This is a great reference video for me, very helpful. Thank you. Hoping to get it running without replacing anything, wish me luck. btw i didn't watch the whole tuning portion of the video but i seen the chain was still moving at idle, is there a problem with the clutch? it didnt quite sound right.
I can guarantee you will have to replace the cylinder and piston and little scratch will decrease the performance of this. The chain moves at idle because I could not adjust the air fuel mixture well enough to lower the rpm to prevent the clutch from engaging and turning chain. I could replace the clutch but it is not an issue and not the reason why the chain moves. Really happy this hard work is not going to waste and you can use this information to fix your chainsaw. Enjoy your weekend.
@@MotionDesignStudio well even if i do have to replace them, this will be a learning experience anyway. Did you try taking off the limiter caps for the jets, mine only gives about a half turn adjustment with the caps. I've had a clutch be the cause of that before that's why i suggested it.
@@RobBot34 , it is not really permitted to meddle with the limiting caps. It is unfortunate since you need a greater range of settings to get a machine to run correctly.
thanks for the video, now I know where the fuse is when I repair my fan. Yours may be a goner but you saved mine from the garbage. I'm probably gonna leave the old one in place and just put the new one next to the windings somewhere. Also could you please add SFC1 to the title as that is this fan's model number and it would help others find this video easier.
This is the issue why it was not charging correct. It is inevitable that this will fail with this model and make. Until BMW updates this design if you have this harmonic balancer it will fail.
I had not idea. Thanks for sharing this information. I got this from Wikipedia : The Geo Prizm and Chevrolet Prizm were compact cars that were rebadged versions of the Toyota Sprinter, a vehicle that the Japanese automaker Toyota never directly sold in the North American market. The Sprinter itself was derived from the Toyota Corolla. The Prizm was marketed under the Geo nameplate until it was discontinued after the 1997 model year. After that, the vehicle was marketed under the Chevrolet nameplate. General Motors (GM) referred to this and other Toyota Corolla derived vehicles as the GM S platform. The cars were produced from 1988 to 2001 (the last ones being sold for model year 2002) alongside the Corolla at NUMMI, an assembly plant operated as a joint venture of GM and Toyota. The Prizm was sold exclusively in the United States and succeeded the 1985-1988 Chevrolet Nova, which was also derived from the Sprinter and produced at NUMMI.
Helpful video Motion Design Studio. Thanks very much for being helpful to the rest of us taking on the alternator change out and the belt, and the power steering belt. Another helpful video is: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-A0ZEOM0zLjE.html As others have noted in other comments, the top bolt of the power steering pulley is not the one you identify in this video, but is actually another hidden 14mm bolt at approximately the 1 o'clock position behind the slots of the power steering pulley.
You message does not give me enough information to properly diagnose. My best assumption is to check the ground connection(s). Why I say this? It sounds like you are sending the command to operate the locks but the motors are not receiving enough amps to perform the task. Best of luck and have a great week.
You can help people in other safer ways not microwaves, tamper screws are there so people like you don't play with it. By the way you had your nose an inch away from the white box that could zap you with 2000 volts, even if unplugged they can hold high voltage for sometime. All you guys out there please be very careful.
What I really needed to do was to tighten up my power steering belt. I was able to drive the car up on a pair of portable ramps, turn the power steering pulley to get access to the lower bolt (which is on the adjusting slot of the mounting bracket) and access it with a medium-length 14mm socket on a ratchet wrench. (I did need to put a piece of pipe over the handle to get enough leverage.)
Thanks heaps for the video, had exactly the problem you had. I drilled a hole where the plastic lug had broken off and glued a plastic dowel in the hole. Works like new, thanks for the video to get me going.
You have the record as the first person to directly help financially with helping this channel move towards sustainability. For that I thank you profusely.
What a class explanation and clear example of a really difficult job, thank you! (It was clear from this that it’s beyond my abilities and tools - I’m gonna have to take my Xa to the Toyota dealer and pay the big bucks!)
At minimum you should have on your carburetor two fuel lines one that gets fuel from the gas tank and one that returns excess fuel to the tank. Many modern carburetors because of the EPA only come with an idle adjustment screw. Hope with helps and best of luck.
What could be happening when the speedometer behaves identically to the rev counter behavior? It started like that and stopped working! Thank you so much for the attention to my question.🤔
@@MotionDesignStudio Thank you so much for the attention. In fact it is not possible make a video to show, because the speedmeter is dead with the needle placed in zero, it stopped moving definitly. Anyhow, I made a diagnostico with blinking lights and I got the code -17 (1 long and 7 shorts) and I can believe that the speed sensor is bad. I have to diagnostic the speed sensor as you show in the vedeo. I must wait for a new speedmeter and replace the one that is in the car. Also i think that the odometer do not count partially and totally, but i am not sure and I have to see better driving the car on the road, what I avoid doing, radars and police.
Also my car has two plugs, 2 pins and 5 pins. The 2 pins is for blinking lights diagnostic. In the 5 pins plug I can find a ground, a battery and one pin with about 4.58V which I presume is K-Line High. I have two more pins with voltages bigger than 12V of the battery. Do you have an idea what does signals are ? Thanks for the attention.
Thanks for the vid..was educational ( did not know the other switch was for cruise). That said, I would have just looped the signal wire at the clutch pedal with a paper clip first.. This would have bypassed the switch itself for quick diagnosis. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MQXCKY98PXo.htmlsi=UD7BBoQ8I6kA3tVc Is what I did on my 97...Hope this helps.
You are correct that is a quick way to check to see if the switch is functional. After repairing the broken off tab on the clutch pedal used for the cruise control, cruise control works now. I did not have cruise control for over 7 years and never really looked into it. Strange how solving the crank no start provided a solution to a different issue. Thanks for the feedback and have a great week.
