Great video. Glue Mate is less than half the price right now. And I was wondering if it was worth paying twice as much. You answered my questions. Thanks.
Came to the video for specific info, success! Thank you for your review! I was shopping on Amazon for Milescraft track saw guides and saw bundles with either of these 2 bottles as an option. Noticed the GluBot was more expensive, so ASSUMED it would be better. Thanks for the video.
Great analysis. One question I have about the helical head is, the OEM size one needs the cutters removed to install, then put back in, but then, are they no longer even in height as they were when coming from the factory?
@@packetlevel the blades have very precise seats, they are made to sit exactly in the right setting/position. They can be turned when an edge gets dull.
@@Thomllama I know they can be turned - not the question. Factory makes a big deal of how they're set when delivered. Did testing /after/ reinstallation show any issues?
Perfect review. Gave me everything I needed to make a decision as I was tossing up whether to get one. Sometimes it can be a pain just trying to find out whether or not something works as advertised in a real use case environment. Cheers mate. Appreciate it
Did you wipe down the shaft, screws and cutter heads with mineral spirits or something to avoid oiling your wood? Normally I’d do that but don’t know if these would be the exception since none of the vids show that and it would be such a pain to get into all 40 cutter heads later for corrosion maintenance. I’m pausing my install while looking for insight 😳
Thank you very much for posting this detailed video. I just completed the job a few minutes ago and my planer works great. One comment: When inserting the new cutter head by tapping on the bearing race with a block of wood, it is possible to damage the bearing seal if the block is not resting precisely on the race. I was able to pull the seal, unkink it, and reinsert it so that it still sealed well. If there is a next time, I plan to seat the bearing flush with a wood block and then tap on the shaft directly with a rubber mallet to seat it completely.
Fascinated to see how this goes. I’ve just replaced mine, of similar vintage, with another early model (I too appreciate the build quality). I struggled with the roll pins to the extent that I admitted defeat, hence my interest in seeing how it’s done!
I tried Gluebot and found it hard to squeeze with my Arthritus in my hands . I also found it hard to open the pull tabs on most glue bottles. I now use Titebond 2 and found the top off Frenches mustard bottle fits right on the Titebond bottle and it's really easy to use the flip cap.
yea, I guess I can see that being an issue. The GlueMate is very slightly harder to squeeze even than the GlueBot, so don't bother with that one either!
Looks like it takes regular sized glue sticks right? Im getting in to paint-less dent repair on the side and i am also tired of the chord and even cheaper, also chinese, glue guns haha Thanks for the video! Good to see more makita fans out there
Have the glue bot and don’t like it. Seals are junk and the cover doesn’t stay on very good. I’ll stick to my yellow mustard bottle with a cap that clicks shut.
Best way to buy racks are at bankruptcy auctions, my son in law and me bought 50 heavy duty racks dirt cheap, and they couldn't sell all of them we paid $20 each starting out, the last 15 we paid $5 each
I saw that rack on amazon listed for like $8 and bought it...tracking said it shipped but it never arrived...I think they listed it too cheap by accident
I have one of these, its a nice glue gun, however, I will say beware of squeezing the trigger before the glue is fully heated. The first one i bought the glue advance mechanism cracked when i squeezed it prematurely. I ordered another and I am just careful to wait for it to fully heat up first.
yea, I can see that happening, ya do have to push it pretty hard for it to brake though I would say. All glue guns are kinda cheaply made so that applies to them all!! :)
Nope. I got so tired of replacing seals in these overpriced things. I'm better buying 4 ketchup bottles for a few bux at the dollar store. It's a solution to a problem noone had.
reason I tried and prefer the Gluemate, no seals to deal with. will take either over old ketchup bottles, friggin hate the ketchup shake/pat and splat when they get 1/2 empty!
It is not the adapter or vacuum. The hose itself is the source of that awful noise. If you can find another hose of a similar size but one that feels different on the outside it may be likely to have different ridges inside and might make less noise or a different one. Just use ear plugs also if your hearing is not great. Maybe even adapt a larger hose to it too and the noise may go away some. If you can find a vacuum hose from 3M or Mirka for it that should make no high pitched noises. It may be more expensive than a replacement of the one that sander came with but you won't go deaf or develop a case of tinnitus. Hearing and eye protection is always a good idea anyhow. It may not always feel or look good but it is worth it otherwise.
The brake is a nice thing to have because I had sanders that would suddenly spin up to more than 10,000 RPM when you lift them up. That is had in a couple ways, one is that when you set it back down to resume sanding it can leave an ugly swirl that is hard to get out. The others are that if the hook and loop is worn out the paper might fly across the room. The last is you gotta watch your hands around it when it spins like that. It never happened to me but I imagine that it would give you a really nasty paper cut!!
On the rare instances I find myself sanding things I don't push down crazy had and try to slow the motor. If you have to do that your sand paper might be dull or worn out. That can cause the friction that heats up the pad and runs the hooks on the pad. Sadly that is a very common problem with hook and loop sanders and I also imagine that to someone who does a lot of sanding it is annoying as heck. That is because they spend more time trying to keep the paper on the thing than getting things done. It would be interesting to see how long these knock off sanders last because the real thing from 3M or Mirka is wickedly expensive!! My dad had a Festool Rotex and while it is a really good sander it is priced at $670. That doesn't include taxes or shipping. He used to work with solid surface counter top material and that stuff makes a very fine powder like dust that will ruin the bearings of your tools slowly but surely. That stuff gets everywhere!
Amazon has replacement tips for all the GlueBot sizes. I'd just get the Glue Mate as it's about the same $$$ as the tips and won't be an issue anymore. :)
@@Thomllama thanks for the tip. Oh man they are pricey and knowing they don't last long, it is like a money pit. I think I should go back to the ketchup bottle
@@b3arwithm3personally, I hate ketchup bottles. When they get below like 1/2 full you end up spending a bunch of time doing the “ketchup shake” to get it to the tip, and often get the air bubble splatter. These get low and sometimes I have to do a double squeeze, but still less annoying! The great thing about the world is, everyone can use what works for them😀
I use the "ketchup bottle" like you showed. Glue flows easily, flexible bottle sides if I want to squeeze it for faster application, and the cover for the tip fits tightly, so I never have glue clog the tip. Also cheap and I use big bottles to eliminate the need for frequent refills.
sorry, but nah, I hate the whole flip and shake BS of regular style glue or ketchup bottles way more annoying than any of the issues with these. The awesome thing is we can both use what we like best!
I've had GluBots in the past and hated them. My issue was that every time I picked up the bottle to apply glue I had to wait an interminable amount of time until the glue finally ran out the tip (except when it was nearly full). Squeezing the bottle did little good as it was not that squeezable. I didn't want to keep topping off the bottle as I really wanted to use up the contents, rinse it out, and put a new batch in. I'm actually perfectly fine with the Titebond style bottle except for the stupid tip that clogs. Maybe I'll try a small Milescraft.
I don't have that issue really, maybe a bit, find the whole waiting for the glue to run down when you flip over am old fashion glue/ketchup bottle much more annoying. the great thing is there are generally options for everyones own preferences.
The filler cap on the Gluebot does suck. The one I have had a paper gasket and you had to make sure when you put it on that there is no glue on it or it gets stuck. I tried to soak it in hot water and still couldn’t get it off. I’m gonna try the Milescraft. Love the bottle style though.
This is a great point. I have a friend who recently bought the xfasten tape and apparently the formulation feels a little different to her. I agree, there is more lateral give on the double sided tape vs blue tape- I had it in the script originally and scrapped it because the video was getting too long. Should have kept it because the value from the information was worth keeping. The reason why I scrapped it is because I’ve never run into a bad cut with the xfasten tape I have when used on the CNC or template routing over the last few years-not sure why the experience is so variable. It is a nuanced topic that deserved a deeper dive than I took. Thank you for making the video.
Yea, I do some inlay and precision fit now and then and the double sided tape threw some fits way off, couldn’t figure it out at 1st why. Gunna try the stuff you linked over at your video, though, it’s kinda pricy, but if it saves time/steps it’s worth it, as that is the biggest down fall of blue tape/CA is all the steps…
@@Thomllama yup it’s pricy and the reason why I didn’t want to recommend it (esp because cold temp performance isn’t as great compared to other seasons). But from using it again over the holidays- I really think it’s the best overall. I might have to update my YT description on this.
Rust is basically adding oxygen to metal making iron oxide. The addition of oxygen changes the metals structure to make it less reactive so less magnetic. It's all to do with atomic neighbors whether they are magnetic or not
I shortend the hose to 15 cm and glued the thing tootgether, it removed the screaming from that badly designed hose, the shorte the better, also helps getting higher airflow when the slender hose is shorter.
You did install the belt backwards. The tabs on the inside are supposed to lean back in relation to the direction of rotation. Those belts are pretty amazing especially if you hate vibration and rattling noise.
