Brembi are better when on a track. The power stop are fine for every day street driving, but because they carbon ceramic there will be some brake fade if they are used on a track.
*180°f thermostat- Caution!* A few (ok, maybe more) words of wisdom for anyone who has done/is contemplating doing this swap as I've seen quite a few new videos, all promoting the 180° thermostat as "one of the key, must do, easy mods for your 392." (Who da heck am I to open my trap, anyway??) I'm an ASE certified tech in engine repair and performance with *five decades* of practical experience, especially with Mopars. I currently have a '23 Scat Pack, Shake-down edition with 6spd. *and,* a 1974 Road Runner with a 440 magnum pushing it along... Cooling issues and all. 😊 I, too had considered and looked into the current, 180° thermostat swap rather carefully. I've been working on high performance engines (and old beaters barely keeping their heads on the block) since *1973,* when I helped built my first, gen 1, 392 hemi along side my old man in our home shop. (It ran like a scalded dog!) 😉 The whole "should I or shouldn't I" question about swapping in a 180° thermostat is... You shouldn't. You're noticing wide temp fluctuations for reasons beyond just the outside temps. Unless you're going to be racing and holding the throttle wide open *for a good bit of the time,* the colder thermostat just works *in conflict* with the factory design and tune of the fans/engine. A: The designed operating temps of the current 392 are intentionally/ideally between *203°f and 215°f* at standard operating conditions, such as on the street and *occasional* race conditions (not hot lapping) as this facilitates proper operation and combustion temperatures for the way these engines are intending to operate *according to Mopar factory engineers.* A visit to the Challenger/Charger Mopar forums such as "Challenger talk" will confirm my statements. Swapping in a colder thermostat *is* a viable option for *extreme duty situations,* meaning taking this thing to the track as a regular occurrence but, is otherwise basically useless in every day driving conditions. B: *Unless,* you program the cooling fans to operate at a cooler temperature to work in unison/harmony with the colder thermostat. This way, the overall temps are kept closer to optimal (215°) during performance runs. However, going through all this just to run it on the streets will only cause conflicts in other parts of the system. If the fans aren't re-tuned, the system is constantly fighting itself by trying to bring the operating temps back towards the intended 203-215° temps, only to have the colder thermostat then try to cool it back down. Will it run cooler? Yes... For a while and then it will struggle to try to go right back up. It's harder than one thinks to find a 180° thermostat for these things (Napa, the dealer, etc.) for a reason as they're not intended to be just a common, over the counter part. You have (in most cases) to go to a performance parts dealer. The benefits of the colder therm just really don't come into play until you hit the strip and the temps really start to build and don't readily come back down, as it does with only occasional high performance operation. A lot of full throttle operation *and* a re-tune of your fans *will* help keep it cooler when you're pushing it, for sure. But remember, you're still looking for those low 200s in temp, overall. In the old school hemis and other performance engines (like I grew up with), lowering the operating temps was standard practice in hot climates and racing situations because the engine systems weren't all controlled by the computer (which is doing its damndest to keep it at a certain temperature point) and as a result, they would experience pre-detonation (pinging) and eventual piston damage. Engines overheated a *lot* easier, city/stop and go driving tempting the car gods for an eventual boil over. In fact, in a lot of the *old school* hot rods, like my father and his cronies were running back in the 50s, they'd use a *hot water bottle* as a radiator, something to just facilitate adding the nominal amount of coolant they did run into the block. 😊 This let them get up to operating race temps quicker when they were getting ready to hit the strip (wherever that may be). 😉 So, don't get to fired up about wasting time and money on a thermostat swap *unless* you're going racing and plan on a re-tune and everything that goes along with that. 😊
back in the day, all gasoline had a percentage of oil in it and all the engines lasted longer. the oil kept everything coated and lubricated, granted you lost power. the gasoline now is super harmful to all car parts because it has ethanol
Bought 180 from autozone 3 times they all failed im trying a different part store this time cuz no way i went through those and they didn’t last a month each
I put the same one on my 2021 Scat Pack Shaker wide body. It's a very nice-looking part and is actually functional too. I would highly recommend one of these to anyone who owns a Challenger.
if you're going 305-315 just get cheap $10, 5 to 8mm universal spacers and call it a day, and yes you can fit 305s and 315s on a 9.5 inch rim, i have 305s on my 9.5 inch rim and it rides smooth and no bulging. I've seen others in Mopar forums saying that 315s fit too, but may have some bulging depending on the tire brand.
This is great. I have a 97 Camaro Z28 thats black and white. I want to do the rotors and everything else black but the calipers white. Hows it holding up for you? What material brake pads do you have? how often do you clean them and what do you use to clean them?
the 2004-06 Pontiac GTO, 2008-09 G8 (and related Chevrolet Caprice PPV), and 2014-17 Chevrolet SS were all Holden-based cars made in Aus and shipped to the USA
Putting bags on anything that see over 100mph regularly is just asking for trouble. Ive seen many airbag failures in my time. Have never seen a coilover strut explode..... nuff said
The eco mod is worth 2mpg over stock in my car. 34mpg vs 32. 2014 charger se so v6 with 5 speed auto. I plan on changing my injectors to the new 8 hole injectors. And upper intake to the new 2020+ as it helps boost low end torque. And see if I can't push 36mpg with yhe 5 speed auto then.
Highly recommend paying a trusted shop to do this work. Lots involved. Did Eibach springs and they turned out great. You need an alignment after. Totally affects camber.
