It's not impossible to find keycaps for, but it is very difficult. I settled for Signature Plastic's SA-P "Snow Cap" which does have the space bars in convex shape and the 2U Enter, since they're PBT with Dye-sub legends which SP is happy to print any symbol on any shape for. But yeah, the 2U Enter key is making it very difficult to find keycaps for. The space bars however I would argue are not that difficult thanks to Alice layouts also needing this sizes. Another downside is that SP keycaps are not exactly cheap.
I almost always go for the aluminum board too, or sometimes the wooden one, but I like to try out different keycaps on my plastic V1 all the time. It's such a game for me.
I’m a big fan, but Ive have some interference issues with my MT3 keycaps getting stuck on or scratching the board…namely the 5 and space bar. No issues with the F row though!
I hope that Keychron will eventually release a low-profile keyboard similar to the K3 (Max or Pro) but with a split spacebar. Binding the right spacebar to Shift, as you've done, brings so much comfort. Currently, I'm using the K11 Max (65% Alice), and it's great except for the width. I'd prefer it to be more compact to minimize the distance and discomfort when reaching for the mouse.
interesting. I totally agree on the split spacebar. I have a 40% board with a split space that was rebound to shift as well. Same with my Alice boards.
Great video! I was actually going to get this board, but I think you made me change my mind... I think you are right, better to stick with a normal staggered layout for now for productivity, since it is totally seamless and fluid after so many years of usage. I just finished configuring the new Epomaker TH40 wireless 40% keyboard to bring along when I am on the move. I find myself using it all the time now though. It is great. Maybe something for you to check out if you want to use a wireless 40% normal staggered layout keeb on the go with your mobile phone or laptop. Definitely a very high fun factor with this board. Some probs with the VIA setup, but I found out how to work around that. Now, it is amazing. Sounds and feels awesome with Duhuk Bitter Tea 63.5gf switches. Bliss.
speaking of 40% boards, I do have one from Akko that I did a video on last year. I love it and love taking with me on the road when I have all blank keycaps on it. People are always stunned.
@@KeebHoarder Good call. I already have V1 58gf and V2 63.5gf in keyboards, and I have both more V2 58gf and V2 63.5gf on the way from China. Definitely my new favorite tactical switch. Both V1 and V2 are great. I am putting them in all my boards now aside from one silent Q9 Plus which I use for video meetings. I do put light linears on layer activation keys though.
I feel like I might do better with that than I did with this Q15 because of my experience with the split Q11. But I really just want to turn my back on the ortho board in general...this is the second one I've purchased and I still don't like it.
Hi! It looks like you'll be the first to review Q15 Max on youtube. Could you share your experience with the Q15 Max regarding the following aspects: 1. How do you find the shorter modifier keys in the first column? I'm curious about how often you might accidentally miss the esc, caps, shift, or ctrl keys due to their reduced width. 2. Doesn't it feel uncomfortable having an extra key to the left of the spacebar? I realize it's a matter of personal preference. On my own keyboard, there are only three keys in that area (ctrl, win, and alt), but my laptop includes an fn key as well. Whenever I use the built-in keyboard outside, that fn key drives me crazy. It's impossible to adapt and avoid missclicks. 3. Are the knobs pressable? While I can manage without a separate ~ key, the Tab key is essential for me. I'd like to know if it's possible to remap the left knob's press to act as Esc, and if so, whether it would be comfortable or if it would inadvertently rotate while trying to press it. Thanks, and apologies for bombarding you with questions.
This is so awesome! Thank you so much for these questions and they will be factored into my review. Please let me know if I should keep an eye out for anything else...I hope to complete recording my review this week.
Hi, is there a modern keyboard that replicates the classic 104 with the big ass enter but also keeping the remaining layout? No small ctrl, no separated F keys, no F12 alighned properly etc
This is a great question and not one that I can confidently answer. I've only purchased one full size keyboard since starting with this hobby and it didn't have the big ass enter. I am more focused on 75% - 40% boards at this station in life.
We've always found ortholinear keyboards to be less comfortable than stagerred IF they are not split. They kind of force your hands together more than staggered keyboards. Ortholinear is great for split keyboards though!
I'm definitely having a hard time adjusting to this, especially the bottom row because of me having to force my hands together like you said...and I"m going against 35 years of learning how to be an awesome typist on a standard layout.
Nice, but disappointed that they still don' t have a 2.4 dongle container/holder on the board itself. It goes true for their entire Q line unlike their plastic V line.
Oepfff those stabs need lubing badly please lube them and do a type test in the review I have two keychron q1 just for fun I think I’ll try this one as I don’t have any ortho boards I do like the layout and that it might not be 100% true ortho for me it’s good enough but need a second typing test and seen if we can chaps the sound of this board to be better because currently it’s what blacksimon would call “sounds like ars cheeks” 😂😂
I removed those factory stabs last night and lubed up some smokey Durocks. The space bars sound amazing but I'll need to tinker with that dang 2u Enter a little more. Thanks for the comment!
@@KeebHoarder I hope you can fix it. If you can’t there’s always the holee mod but I prefer that one not done with bandaids. And if you can’t fix it. Put them aside and buy a set of TX ap screw in stabs those only need sum 205 G0 and no modding except checking the wires but I never had to balance TX stabs they are a bit more expensive but worth every penny my second favorite are durock but i usually only use durock for plate mounted stabs.. let me know how it goes ;-)
@@KeebHoarder btw I think I have the original keychron white stabs in both my keychron boards hahaha never had a need to change them just added sum superlube grease otherwise known as dielectric.grease and all the rattle went away one board needed more work 205 G0 and grease but I don’t think I washed them and bandaid modded them wires were straight. Considering I have a couple TX stabs I use on higher end boards I was lucky with these stabs
This is an interesting conversation we have going here. I'm fine without knobs but I really like having volume control at my fingers and it can be incredibly useful if you program it for use in a different application. I use the other knob when editing video to roll through my timeline. @kevinwells9751 - what would you want that "one more button" to be?
It took me a couple of days where I was making a lot of typos (especially on the bottom row) but after that I adjusted and it's been great! I already prefer it to the typical layout and I'm only getting faster with it
I don't really see one. I've been watching a lot of @DygmaLab content on their split board and I can see how a split, staggered type of ortholinear board would be better than this one, but that's such a huge commitment. I've logged 58 minutes on typing tests alone so far this week and broke 100 once, but most of my results have been in the 40-60 range. I'm having a hard time adjusting and usually switch to a standard layout during work hours.
@@KeebHoarder Hmm, I am going to have to try an ortholinear one. I fully expect it to become a failed project though. Maybe something cheap from Aliexpress would be a better idea just to try. I just bought a cheap smaller wireless staggered 40% (Epomaker TH40) to see if I can go smaller than my Keychron Q9 Plus when I travel.
I love the Acrylic Top 40 I got from Akko last year, it really changed my perspective on small boards and I love using it still! But I usually take the Keychron K7 or NuPhy Air60 when I travel. They just get less questions and looks.
I do have other boards with space bars like this; a few Alice boards and a 40% and most of my keycap sets have these but NONE OF THEM have an enter key that fits this board. Most other ortho boards are small 1u Enter keys. This frustrates me on this board.
Thanks for your vid. Been pondering the Q11 for a while now and your right hand highlights that the right thumb basically cannot be used for anything! Thus I'll probably go for the Moonlander.
Watched all your reviews on the Q11 and got mine a week ago. I gotta say I'm very satisfied with the purchase so far. It has met my expectations in every aspect. Its ergonomic design, 'noise' level of the mechanical switches (I got the brown ones), RGB effect, and build quality are all true to what's been covered in your video. Thank you very much for the series of comprehensive and in-depth review!
For sure! I don't think it's as effective as a more sculpted or tented split board would be. But if you're looking for something that is portable and a layout like this, you've come to the right place. If you want a different Keychron board that would be better with wrist pain, check out some of my Q11 videos. I love that board but I just put it away for the summer.
@@KeebHoarder Thank you for your kind reply. I've been using Filco for years, and my hands hurt since maybe 2 years ago. I'm searching for more affordable alternative to Kinesis product, because it's so expensive, plus I have to import it from United States, which means it will cost me more. I'll check your Q11 video. Thank you!🙏
@@KeebHoarderI personally have the q10 which I like too because of ergo plus f frow. I like the idea of q11, but I can't believe the plate is part of the case ..it's really unacceptable at this price point. So I am hoping they make a q11 max someday that fixes this one issue, then i am in for one
Where did you find this keyboard? I am making this project where I am turning a regular notebook into a functional fallout pip boy themed laptop terminal, I think that this would be perfect!
I watched a few of your videos, and thank you for not pushing keyboards that you get free. I never trust those reviews. I purchased several keyboards and modded them, but then I got wrist pain. I went to an Alice 60 percent keyboard (pain free), but it was lacking major buttons I need. I went to MicroCenter today and almost got this keyboard in this video. I got the Keychron v10 Max and very pleased with it. Never going back to a standard keyboard.
I am still on my K2 v2 modded and looking towards V1 Max as an upgrade in months to come - programmable, 2.4Ghz and better build are just about good reasons for USD100, unless I find an alternative maker at the same price with better build/features/acoustics. Budget would be around USD100-150, but that needs to include my preferred XDA key-caps with cyrillic, and some modding stuff. My current K2 v2 mod is: - Gateron G Pro 3 Yellow switches - Tape mode (2 layers) - Durock stabilisers with popular mods - 4mm Practik Base for vibration/sound dampening (orange) - 5mm STP Biplast sound insulator (black) - Poron foam between plate and PCB - 0.5mm switch pads - PBT XDA keycaps 1.5-1.6mm (cheap but good ones, not doubleshot) - 1.5mm O-rings on XDA key-caps Quiet sure this beets even the current stock V1 Max and NyPhy Halo75 v2, when it comes to thockiness and silence, but want a new one. BTW, I noticed that not many, or close to none, options when it comes to cases w/o top cover, like the K2 (not considering the low profile ones)! More plastic/steel/aluminum = more ways to resonate.
Thanks for all the deets! I love hearing about other people's builds. There are some incredible options on the horizon for budget boards this summer. I saw a Keybored and Hipyo Tech released reviews on this week that looks really insane. But for my money, I love what you can get with the V series of boards and still have money left over for extra caps and switches!
@@KeebHoarder Got V1 Max and installed my preferred Gateron G Pro 3.0 Yellow switches from my older K2 V2. Originally I ordered with Gateron Jupiter Banana switches which I didn't like, think I am more in to linear. Now I have ordered TTC Frozen Silent V2 switches, which should arrive in a weeks time, and am hoping it will make my keyboard much more silent and enjoyable, not just for typing but also for gaming. As per mods I did the following: 1. Removed the original foam from the board and instead used 4mm Practik Base for vibration/sound dampening (orange) and 5mm STP Biplast sound insulator (black). Both are used in automotive and sound industries. 2. Added Poron switch pads 0.5mm on top of PET sheet 3. Tape mod with 2 layers 4. Added Poron 0.5mm pads under stabs and the stems, and re-lubricated the stabs as well (was thinking of changing them to Durock V2, like I did on my K2 V2, but these stocks look good) 5. Added O-rings between the bottom and the top case where screws go in. 6. Changed to Cherry PBT Double-Shot Dark Blue/Black keycaps set (usually comed with Xinmeng A66 keyboards) I am liking the results very much. As per next upgrade, maybe in a year or two, it will definitely be based on magnetic switches, programmable, like press W for walk, press harder for running. Maybe by then there will be other features incorporated.
