It'll serve you Well to Replace that cheapass magnet in the bottom of that TranPan with a Neodymium Magnet upgrade! It's not gonna hurt Nuthin' in your Transmission ... and will definitely work Much Better pullin' out ALL the metal particles outta that oil and keep 'em from cyclin' Back into your system again.

I just switched all my fluids over to Amsoil because how impressed I was with their motorcycle oil.

Thanks

Is this a 2WD or 4WD and what engine? I have heard horror stories of getting the pan to clear the exhaust on some trucks.

YOU COMPLETELY SKIPPED THROUGH THE FILTER GASKET PART....FFS dood

From the service literature, the INSPECTION levels from the factory are a range as they are filled with a certain volume that will result in variation of the fill level relative to the fill plug, so if the fluid is inspected and found to be within the range, then no fluid needs to be added. If the fluid is below the minimum, then fill to the bottom edge of the plug opening. Copy and paste from service literature: Inspect the lubricant level: Specification: The lubricant level should be between 1-19 mm (0.04-0.75 in) below the fill plug opening for the 8.6 inch axle. The lubricant level should be between 15-40 mm (0.59-1.57 in) below the fill plug opening for the 9.5/9.76 inch LD axle. If the level is low, add lubricant until the level is even with the bottom edge of the fill plug opening. Use the proper fluid. Refer to Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations.

All that work for nothing, you forgot to do a flush to remove all the old oil from the torque converter no good.

Sorry can't take advice from someone that thinks its ok to let your oil change go that many miles. I'd already had changed it 3 times!!!!!

It takes 30 minutes of highway, highspeed driving, to get transmission fluid to reach the required 180F. The transmission has a temp controlled reservoir. If its not at temp when you can underfill the transmission. I use a $5 Torque App and BT OBDII adapter to read engine data, and transmission temp. A simple drain and fill only replaces, 45% of fluid, need to do full fluid exchange, or 4 drain and refills.

Why do they not put a drain plug on transmission pans?? When I do my vehicles I use the harbor freight fluid pump which works extremely well , you don’t have hot oil to deal with when pulling the pan. It’s an under $20 item

How many gallons did you put

Just finished this on a 2011 GMC Terrain. This video was SUPER-HELPFUL!!! However, I took the wheel off because I also wanted to take a look at the brakes as well and it was way easier for me!! Subscribed and liked!!

Did the fluid change on my terrain, took it for a test drive afterwards and everything was great, let it sit for a few days, next time I went to jump in the transmission decided that it no longer wanted to function.

I was going to do my transfer case at the same time but i couldnt find it, still. So i did the transmission fluid, frain and fill. I removed 4 /2 quarts. Next issue was i couldnt get the level plug off. It was on there tight. Hindsight, while under the car i should have loosen it then remove it hen i put the car back on the ground. So Plan B was fill will 4 1/2 quarts, what i took out of it. Npw im off to drive it. Fingers crossed.

I've been searching for this video--just what i needed. It will be my first time doing transmision drain and fill on my 2011 Terrain. Questions had are now answered so i will feel confident doing this job. At the end, you talked about other maintenance. Did you do the transfer case? I think i will do it at the same time. 2011 with 25000 miles. Not quite 30k, but the years I'm sure deteriorates it.

Thank you!

Hello great video, if you want to flush the rear diff fill it, and then run it 100 miles and change again. If you can't run it due to time, fill the diff, and then drain it agian. Spraying brake clean into diff is a NO-no.

did you do the piston rings yet.....They go out on these engines

Why do they not just give us a dang drain plug

Easy hour or more lol

loving these videos...just watched the front diff...now hoping you have one for the transmission drain and fill!

Thank you, super helpful! Question about the rear, since it doesn't have a drain plug and if I don't want to remove the cover, can I just suction the old gear oil out with my hand pump extractor? Thanks again!

GO JOB , I GET A 2014 HOW MUCH YOU WILL CHANGE ME TO DO IT FOR ME /JS

Does the LS additive make a difference?

Don’t bother changing the gaskets if in good shape.

Well, just wanna point out that mine never had the required clearance to take off the pan, EXCEPT with losing the manifold's flange nuts. I think the real and easier method is to losen the exhaust. You guys are lucky to have this that easy. My 2018 was a real PITA.

This is a video on how not to properly change your fluid. You left most of the old fluid in the lines and converter. Waste of time.

Curious, did the old pump / motor make any noise and just no fluid?

Aren't the pan gaskets reusable?

If you just loosen the 6 nuts three on each side at the manifolds the crossover pipe drops down enough to slide pan right out.

Part number to the hose?? Regualr bed?

Drop the spare tire.............much more room that way.

Video quality sucks throughout!

Great videos, much appreciated! I’m going to service my dads 2015 Silverado for him! Stealership here in Canada wanted way to much to change these fluids!

I would of checked if the fill comes off before you drain it

Just my strong opinion here, don't believe the hype on the high mileage engine oils. Why my STRONG opinion? Because I fell for it on a 2007 Toyota Rav4. What happened? Carbon deposits get in the oil rings and won't allow them to expand outwards towards the cylinder walls and allows blow by. I had to add a quart of oil about every 2 weeks or within every 500 miles. Your better off to buy a cheaper synthetic oil and change it every 5000 miles, regardless of the manufacturers recommendation. Yes, if your vehicle is new, 7500 mile oil changes will get you past your warranty but it's doing more harm than good in the long haul, well past the manufacturer warranty. Just wanted to share my experience so you don't end up with the same problem. Also these trucks have the 4 cylinders that shut down on and off as your going down the road, unless you delete it or put a Range Technology and leave it in the OBD port, which I highly recommend. If any of those lifters collapse, your looking at a costly repair. You don't want any additional carbon deposits floating around in your oil and causing those lifter springs to fail. Your looking at $4000.00 repair to have the DOD delete done correctly. Take care and great video otherwise.

The dealership does basically the same thing when flushing the transmission fluid. Except they replace all the fluid, supposedly. They don't change the transmission filter, cause it's a nightmare to do. I had the transmission fluid changed at 25,000 miles, and 65,000 miles at the dealership, and I did the transmission fluid change at 100,000 miles myself. The transmission oil was still a reddish color, not burnt. The vehicle shifts great. "nock on wood" I use Valvoline Decron VI in the blue bottle for Transmission fluid. I'll drain and fill the Transmission fluid once again when I do my next oil change cause I only replaced 5 quarts of the transmission fluid during the 100K miles drain-and-fill. Then I'll check the transmission fluid after another 25,000 miles. I change the Oil and oil filter every 5k to 6-thousand miles full synthetic 5W-30 every time. The vehicle runs great.

I thought the transfer case was supposed to get transmission fluid

You only replaced about one third of the fluid.....

Thank you for the video. I just did a replacement on mine. I turned the wheel the other way tho, lol.

I welded an O2 sensor bung with a plug and copper washer on a replacement pan then swapped it out when I replaced the filter. I do a drain and fill every second oil change which gets about half the fluid. Going to add a Superior Solutions STL010 to the thermostat for full flow to cooler and do the Mobil1 HP ATF swap next.

Rebonjour je viens de voir comment tu fais ton niveau d'huile de boite. C'est bien moteur tournant et boite chaude. Le moteur est a l'arret et l'huile de boite chaude. Pas facile pour moi c'est la premiere fois que je le fais. Merci d'avance Hello again, I just saw how you do your gearbox oil level. It's fine with the engine running and the gearbox warm. The engine is stopped and the gearbox oil is hot. Not easy for me, it's the first time I've done it. Thanks in advance

Is this all wheel drive?

Bonjour a combien de couple as tu serré les boulons merci d'avance

How about measuring what you took out to refill.

Ah' this takes me back to dropping my first GM hydrostatic pan when I was 18 and nervous on my 88' Cavalier with the 2.0L. Now, I have to do this again on a few 6L80's for the wife, 20+ years later. GM read and butter right here. Good thing I learned some sh*t back in the day when I first took a few dexMerc baths. ....FAFO ftw. Lazy mechanic tip. The right sized and decently thick wooden board across the pan (to the walls) and a old school emergency scissor jack work grate together to keep tension and free a hand up. And to slowly lower the front with a lot of control and ease....until it catches on the bolts letting it hang to drain when doing the classic tilt. And it helps keep you out of the splash zone directly under it a bit.

You don't need to change out those gaskets on the end of the filter. Also, you don't need to put it back up there with a sock an extentsion either, just put it on the new filter and install it. You made this whole thing way more complicated than it needs to be. I'm only here for the amount of fluid

1.0 Hour with no lift done it several times.

Change your oil. It is cheap maintenance. Your vehicle will perform better and longer.

If you forget those clamps, just open them all the way to separating, spread the ends around whatever you're clamping, and rethread the free end into the working one.