My general question about weight distribution. If a deisel engine was removed from a 40ft trawler and a couple of 25hp outboards were attached, would it be safe? Should the weight be replaced? Your thoughts.
very interesting job well done i thinking my bayliner 2355 i removed engine outdrive and use a 25 hp outboard as i dont really go fast, just 10 knots is perfect, i should have bought a houseboat. i do alot of boat touring and camping in norhtern ontario what you think 25 hp ?
Does this help resale much? With an older used outboard comparable to the cost of a i/o (hull worth; not figuring conversion costs) Thinking of doing this to a larson using twin ox66 motors. Im capable of doing it in my shop here in NC. Nice work serious.
The BIG elephant in the room has not been dealt with…..AS ALWAYS…..and I would add “conveniently so”, and most disturbingly “willingly so” Speed is never the comparison point between electric and gas……..RANGE is, specially range at a brisk pace At full throttle the electric engine will depleate its battery in minutes (less than an hour for sure)………..how long can the gas engine go with those 6 gallons in a tank ? Did you measure that ? In a flat lake lake you fight NO current nor waves (act as brakes), go to any coastline, and you’ll discover that part of your power is used exclusively to offset current and wave power Forgive me, but almost ALL of the comparisons are “intellectually dishonest” at best, and WILLINGLY SO Now, if you live on a small lake and are happy at going around in 6 knots, or less, in silence (a beautiful experience nonetheless), the electric motor can be the best option For absolutely anything else, go gas And I didn’t even touched the time to refill a 6 gallons tank, vs recharging a battery……… Stop comparing, they are two different engine types, for two very different ways of boating .
@@SeaMonkeyMarineIt’s very clear to me. He’s saying that the resale value of the boat, if the owner decides to sell, is going to be way less than the cost of doing the change AND the boat is going to attractive to a small set up buyers. It’s like putting a Hemi engine in a regular V6 Charger. That model year Sea Ray is a very desirable boat and they sell very well in good condition. It would have made more sense to replace the gimbals (relatively inexpensive), and would have been a good selling point, sell the boat and get one designed for saltwater. I actually thought about doing something similar and the shop told me they’d never take anyone’s money by doing this.
Also, how long can you go at max speed on each motor. That six gallons of gas will take you a long way, whereas the electric is not going to take you that far. I like the idea of an electric motor but they just aren't where I need them yet. If I want to go fishing and run up and down the Sound amd move from place to place, I need a motor that can do that without needing a charge. Lots of advantages for both but I am still in the gas motor camp.
The simple answer is, for electric, the motor uses 98 amps at WOT. The battery is a 100 amp hr battery. Therefore at WOT your run time would be 1hr or slightly more. that's how the math works however that never truley happens, it would be a bit short of 1hr (no we have not had the chance to test that) yes the gas motor will clearly beat the electric in speed and distance. but as stated they are clearly 2 different experiences. If you are fishing on a lake or bay and go from place to place, you might be surprised as to how far you could go. any time you are not at WOT extends the battery life, and any time that you are sitting still or throttle of coasting or floating in a current adds to the battery life. We are currently working on the production side and will get back to testing. So far me and my wife went for a 2.5 hr cruise through the 1000 islands, covered 10 miles and only used half of the battery by percentage. So its a longer life than you might think.
@SeaMonkeyMarine That's great info to know. Thanks for sharing. I love the idea but I am not sure I am ready for that yet. I have a motor so I don't have to paddle and I don't want to find out the hard way how long it will last. LOL!! Thanks again and I look forward to seeing more!!
Holy smokes have you never seen a outboard bracket not leak? Why in the world would you half assed this? I couldn’t get past the first two minutes of your video because you are so clueless. Whoever ends up getting this boat needs to know that you have no clue what you’re doing.
So no reinforcement of transom and hanging 2 OB off the back on a hull that was not designed for that application no concerns of stress related failure of transom ?
I like their concept of going to the OBs but almost all IO to OB conversions I’ve seen had transom knees glassed and mechanically affixed into the stringer system. A lot of weight gonna be pressed onto that wedge between the bracket and transom. Love to see a one year later report.
After inspecting the transom condition on this boat and taking into account the increased area for which the load is distributed by the bracket, and 35 year experience in this business making all kinds of modifications to boats and building boats it was determined that is would not be necessary. and when we were finished and test ran the boat it was proven that we were correct as there is no movement. On this particular model and the shaping of the transom by the factory on this model made it possible to do without further structure
People and insurance companies may eventually catch on that these modifications aren't Coast Guard approved designs and aren't backed by the manufacturer. Boat companies take a lot of care in weight distribution and hull design and they test them to make sure they're stable plus certified before they sell them.
Coast Guard does not certify boats designs. Nor do they advise to weight distribution or structural integrity. They only deal with flotation requirements for boats so that the passengers can stay with the boat in the event of a sinking vessel. Thus making it more possible to survive such a situation.
The Coast Guard plate on the boat usually indicates how many passengers the boat can safely carry and sometimes the maximum horsepower rating for the vessel.@@SeaMonkeyMarine
Owner was heading for a serious overhaul of the lower units, I'd say its been a dream come true on a power package that has a lot of options in the future, outboards are the way to go with everything in 1 package.All in all, impressive and ready for Florida's boating environment. Liked the vidios and watching the work .
No problem. Are you able to say what the difference was in terms of top speed? What kind of speeds were you getting out of the factory prop before you put the custom one on? Thanks!@@SeaMonkeyMarine
So let me get this straight, you took out two 650 Lb engines and replaced them with two 600 Lb engines hanging 40 inches further rearward and your trying to tell us this will be OK ?? Unless you added 400Lbs to the bow, this boat will swamp in a following sea. It's going to be riding with it's ass way down!! Basically you just ruined this boat.
FYI the weight of a mercruiser 4.3 efi package w/ alpha gen 2 outdrive is 865lbs so this was replaced with verado 25 inch outboard motors weighing in at 645lbs. So the switch to outboards was in fact less weight by 440 lbs over all. Now consider the flotation of the sealed bracket and you have even a lighter stern setting. we did add a generator in the previous engine compartment that weight in at 110 lbs. It is difficult to calculate the buoyancy of the bracket as it is at many angles, however rest assured that it is more than the generator weight and also compensates for the engines being mounted 28 inches back, so much so that the boat when floated sat higher in the stern than before. the customer has informed us the the boat feels more stable sitting in the water than before. And this is without any weight added to the boat in any place. So yes i will tell you that it is ok. the boat planned quicker and rides better than before using little to no trim at all speeds. The customer has reported top speed of next to 50 mph which was not even close before (41mph). The motors install were 225 hp not the 250 that is stated on the cowling. these were used motors and this is the way they were purchased. The Hp rating on the 4.3 efi is 210 hp so we had a small gain at propshaft hp. hope this answers your questions
we bought used motor for 19500, plus we installed a generator. this affected the total bill. The conversion in labor and supplies to perform the conversion should be about 15000. the overall cost would depend on the motors purchase and rigging parts selected
Cannot tell you about the economy numbers as we have not gotten that feed back from the customer, however a speed gain at wot of about 9 mph was realized and cruising is reported as better because the outboards are more comfortable cruising at higher rpm. The boat naturally sits on a plane better now, the customer does not input down trim tab as before
And that's also why I/O's suck and are extremely untrustworthy in my opinion, unless you want to pull the drives off every year and inspect/replace bellows routinely. No thanks!!
Not a full test yet. Ran in around about two hours straight one day and only went down about 5 or 10%. we have it disassembled at the moment to make a mold off of it. Once we get it, put back together and make a few other ones they’ll be more update videos in the future.
It was a custom hand cupped stainless 7.5 x 8 prop. There is no need for that to be a secret. The higher the pitch, the lower the RPMs and the higher the top speed, though it takes you marginally longer to get up to speed. I had a 7.5 x 8 SS (no cupping on mine), and it helped a little, but not a lot. RPMs were still a little too high. I'm going to try a 7.5x9 aluminum Yamaha and see what happens. But I put an Elco 9.9 on my 14 foot decked out, modified V Jon boat, and the motor just churned the water until I put on a hydrofoil. Then I was able to plane out and get a nice rooster tail off the back. I can hit about 7 mph, maybe 8. The Elco 9.9 does not have the power of gas 9.9. Not even close. I had to tweak my setup a lot, but I do like it now. And all these claims about the battery going down only 5-10 percent after two hours are utter hogwash--unless they were just putting around. The motor draws about 98 amps wide open. If you're using a 100 ah battery, the math is super simple and there is no way to get around it: you've got about one hour wide open. I've got a 200 ah battery in my boat, and I'll run my down to 50% cruising around for two hours, and I'm not going full-out all the time. It's a cool motor, but you're not going to hit 13 mph without a small, light boat, a 100 ah battery (the lightest one possible), a custom SS prop, and nobody and nothing else in the boat.
@@doug7040 Thanks for the info. I enjoy electric power on my moderate speed, lightweight, super efficient Expandacraft-hulled catamarans. I used a Torqeedo 1003 (1000 W input) electric outboard on my 17' X 6' Sea Lance and achieved 9mph downwind with a current. Weight and trim are critical to decent performance. See my boat at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4LJuqqSOK30.html.
I would love to do this to my Searay260BR, been having issues with the Bravo3, but the cost is the problem, it's more than the boat is worth to me. I'm looking at a 270 that has twin honda 225 on it this weekend. I enjoyed your series. Gives me more of an idea of what to look for to make sure it was done correctly. Wondering if you did it. Looks almost identical to this setup.@@SeaMonkeyMarine
You got her done and driving around on outboard motors in just five days! The customer drove his boat with inboards one weekend and showed up the very next weekend with outboards. His friends were impressed for sure.
