I have bought 3 of these Jack's and every single one of them has warping the front Left wheel on all of them dosent touch the Ground and even the replacements are the same
I had an everlast 211 if i remember it right, used it on daily basis and gave up after 6 months and gave up again so warrantied 5x until the warranty expired. i replaced it with the miller multimatic 215 with no problem at all since 2022
If anybody wants to know why making videos makes the project take longer, just show them 39:00 in this video. It takes several minutes to get a camera angle on the marks.
I think most of the DFW LSX crew Pontiacs came from Sewell(Dallas), Ewing(Plano), Evans(Garland) and quite a few from my dealership, Grayson Motors(Sherman). I wanna say David McDavid was the Pontiac dealer in Irving back then.
Great demo, like how you showed the Badland being pulled so easy across the gravel to your work sight, then when you drove the truck with the jack as one of it's wheels that was just way to over the top ! Thanks for sharing, I was researching the BADLAND Floor Jack, because all my repair jobs are out in the gravel, and I'm tiered of lugging my heavy flood jack around that doesn't want to be used in the gravel ! Thanks !
So you answered part of my question about the TC. Mine howls at various speeds so I switch to 4A ('12 EB with ESOF so three mode TC) The bigger issue was the case was empty, as in basically no fluid! Secondary was the grinding/surging when in 4H and attempting to accelerate in 4H or 4A. I am just ordering a used case off Ebay since I can't justify 2K for a truck with 185K on the clock. Let me know what you think but good job!
@@CodyCrafted Yeah, my mechanic and I were discussing it today and scratching our heads too. I'm going to swap the TC for a used one and check the trans seal and even the vent hose.
have a 1996 xlt bronco with 125k miles. looking to do a partial restore as it was a west coast rig and has minimal rust spots on the rear fenders. how much do you figure it would cost to have a reliable shop get it modernized? for example.. update electrical, headlights, suspension, exhaust, brakes, tune up, and a few other necessary items given its age.
A rear main seal is about $20, but takes 8 hours to replace. A set of main bearings are about 25, takes 20 hrs. That math doesn't work. If somebody wants to get their money out of a project, buy a Camry and find a new hobby. "What it's worth" and "what I'm willing to spend" are not the same thing. I tell my clients that we're grown men, and this is real money. You don't work for free, neither do I. There's only a couple ways to build a project vehicle: dollars backwards to workload, necessary work (usually as an upgrade if possible) to a base cost, and specific work = budget (aka, "send me an invoice when it's done). Anything else is ambiguous and allows interpretation that can lead to a lack of trust and friction with the client.
@@CodyCrafted agreed. i had a low mileage 1968 ford mustang that i bought in 'fair' shape and over a 16 year span probably spend over four times what it ended up being worth when i had to sell it. i get it.. labor is going to cost a fortune.. but you cannot look at it like that. its about what you are willing to sacrifice to make your project work for you. i am not looking for a frame off resto. it runs pretty well given its age (low mileage west coast truck). it does need tlc after nearly 30 years and I am doing my research before I get too far into the project.
I like watching the design process - I was in Engineering Graphics in high school, and really enjoyed AutoCAD and Inventor. So much fun to use at some of my part time college jobs (I've since tried to learn blender, but 3D modelling is over my head when it isn't engineering/part based 😂)
For a 2-3” lift with 17x8.5+0 wheels and 285/70R17 tires, do you need to a body mount chop or relocation? Or will you get full clearance with just plastic trimming and heat molding?
kicking ass. We have also done the Bilstiens and a 1" block setup recently on another truck, if you're looking to upgrade the shocks and not do the UCA mods.
@@CodyCrafted so just add bilsteins and use the same 1" block the kit comes with in the rear ??? also - where you located ? maybe I'll just have you do it all...TY
I've been using a Lightning MTS 275 for a few months now and it has performed excellent. Get the longer gun and up the gas flow to compensate. Only dislike is that model has no gas purge but not a deal breaker for me.
Haven’t had their MiG units. I’ve always bled blue. Old miller CP302s just run forever. But when I worked for a company that had an old esab that I blew up on a thick aluminum job they asked what I wanted… till they saw the dynasty price and said “nope find something else”. Everlast made the 355EXT back then and I ran the living piss out of it daily for 2.5 years. I even ran 1/4” carbon arc maxed out. Never even hit the thermal cutout switch on the unit. Only issue I had was with the gas solenoid. They returned my email with a phone call within 15 minutes and sent a TSB procedure of how to disassemble it, stretch the spring 1/8” and reinstall. If it didn’t work they were going to overnight a new one. The big weld brands might have better units but you CANT beat Everlasts customer service. Best in the business when it comes to knowing their product inside and out and customer support. Unfortunately they don’t make the 355 anymore, and the bigger 400 isn’t rated for carbon arc like the 355 was… idk why. That was a huge selling point for me. Will likely buy their 330 typhoon for the house soon and maybe the cyclone 312 or the powerarc mts 400. I like a separate drive feeder but I hate those small dials with gloves on.
Informative as always. I would love to see Holley do a sponsor of a Sniper 2 on a SBC350. Wouldn't that make a great show? Seriously, I like the way you work through these and explain the thought processes of diagnosing the problem. I learn a lot. But, you Yada Yada right past the wire connecting which is what I suck at. (Also, Good job Steve-o)
Yes I need my 1995 XLT Bronco redone. I had it since 1994 but it seen better days. These Michigan winters killed my body but my engine and trans is A1 with 160000 original miles.
I appreciate the honest explanation about RU-vids. Its tough. You know ive done a few videos, and fortunately plenty of spare time, but I totally understand what you mean. The good thing is youve grown well. It will likely take one big collaboration to set you skyrocketing. I hate to see the videos slow down for you but i understand your frustration. I think your new ideas may help. Video less content so you have less to sift through to edit. Just record what you want to use. Or, like Derek, do very little creative editing and just let yourself and the video be the entertainment.
Did you have that grinding noise when decelerating? I’m having the same issue but the noise and rattle happen when I slow down and goes away when I apply the brake
I had a pewter '99 ram air t/a that looked just like that. Then a black '02 with custom wheels. Both had aftermarket ram-air hoods and Borla exhaust. I miss those. But especially the '02.
Hi I have a question? The Front Struts is MRA59-A700 MRR 3-Way Adjustable (0-2" Lift) or MRA59-A574 3-Way Adjustable Shock (2.5"+ Lift)? Same Rear Shocks, did you choose 2-3" lift, long travel? Or just MRA59-A701 MRR 3-Way Adjustable? Thanks.
