Your tutorials are fantastic. Could you discuss how to understand the histogram you use? When a photo is overexposed or underexposed. How do you read it correctly? I also see that you are using the Sigmoid module and not Filmic RGB. Why? I have noticed that most of my photos look better without using these modules. Are they essential when editing?
I am still in the process of watching your video, but I needed to stop and express how grateful I am that you showcased colour theory!! Most people teaching would just explain how to do it, but would not support any of the fundamentals. Much appreciated! Loving the video so far!
Darktable is a very powerful program. But I have not found any videos on how to use darktable for focus stacking image. If you can do it, it would be very interesting to watch such a video.
I seen many videos on channel mixer after long time I found right videos for me 💗 really thanks 🙏 sir why RU-vid hide this type video from users who really need but not found in search engines
I think it's a good explanation, but you didn't really cover how to not destroy atleast one colour with this tool. For example with the 27:59 example, you destroyed the sky. Would've liked to see you fix that
Amazing demonstrations! Question: for the photo of the leaves, did you use a tripod? I am asking because I noticed the relatively long shutter speed: I’d never be able to avoid motion blur with those settings. Thanks for your great series on Darktable!
Master Boris and DT team, this looks incredible and appears to become a new standard for color processing. Your examples and the tool set of the module also seems like a straightforward method to approach a basic understanding of 'how color works', somehow. Looking very much forward to trying it out - thanks!
Thanks for the video, Boris. Always a pleasure and inspiration. One proposal, would you mind creating a tutorial about how to optimally prepare pictures for print?
First: Thank you for your tireless effort to teach the use of that program. I myself had used darktable for many years, but unfortunately with each update the program had become more and more complicated and (for me) unusable. So I gave up and switched to the commercial program Pixelmator Pro and since that day, I use Pixelmator exclusively for editing new photos. Pixelmator is so much easier and quicker to use than darktable, and you get so quickly impressive results - that is impossible with darktable. I still have darktable 4.2 on my computer, but only for the case, that I want to modify an edit I had made in the past with darktable. All new photos are only edited with Pixelmator. To my opinion it was the bad influence of Pierre Aurelien on the darktable project, that (for me) killed darktable. Versions 3.2, 3.4 and 3.6 had been great software with good usability and editing results, but as soon as Aurelien started his scenic editing and filmic stuff, things got worst and worst. When Version 4.2 came out, I checked it, immediately gave up and switched to Pixelmator Pro (and never wanted to go back to darktable). To my opinion, the developers were mainly focused on technical aspects of perception theory but completely lost sight on usability and speed of workflow. Its a shame but to my opinion a very nice and helpful program was ruined to uselessness.
I use the RGB primaries to replicate the camera profiles for my Canon camera like landscape and oneof my favorite downloadable profilesfor Canon DPP, Autumn Hues. I found this module seems to work better than luts, which seem to create color artifacts in near gamut colors.
Another excellent example of how to use darktable at 120% Boris, I have a request. When you switched from films to sigmoid, I was looking forward to better work. Unfortunately for my portraits I can't get the same or better results in sigmoid than with the filmic module. I make portraits in the studio, and with the sigmoid module, the bright areas come out terribly burnt, and the color balance module is almost impossible to use to fine-tune the color contrast. Can't you do one more episode on portrait editing with sigmoid including all the other edits and this mod as well? Thank you. And I appreciate your work.
I don't understand that. Do you have any examples so that I can see where the problems lie? I actually get much better results with Sigmoid because the colors look much more natural. I have never had any problems with bright areas.
@@josefsmolik5991 Unfortunately it does not work on youtube. Maybe here: postimages.org/ And then you can send me the link. Preferably a jpeg of the unedited photo and after your edit.
I put the link to the photos twice here and I don't see it here. Did you find it? Or should I send you an email? I'm sorry, I don't understand.@@s7habo
This looks like an amazing new tool. Thanks again Boris. I assume if you want to affect different areas of the image you can use more than one instance so for example tightening the hue curve on one hue then leaving it wide for another in the other instance. Brilliant as ever.
Was delaying the upgrade, but you made me do it now with a great tutorial. And I see 4.8.1 is out as well, so some smaller bugs ironed out. I was expecting it to "only" be a replacement for color zones, but this is so much more. Some of the things would be achievable with masks, but it looks much simpler using color equalizer.
Yes - that's exactly what I needed! I've just installed the latest version of Darktable, so far I've been using the default from Debian 12 - Darktable version 4.2. It is a very nice tool for me 🙂
I did a quick test on one of my landscapes which had some very high contrast areas and it made a great improvement. The image had so much greater depth. I will re-watch this video. Thank you Boris.
Thank you so much for the examples. I had no idea how useful this module can be. Excited to start using it! Darktable is such a powerful tool, and it's wonderful that you make these videos to show the possibilities!
Yes, as @murlidhr replied. You could be more precise with parametric masks, but it would also be much more time-consuming. The nice thing is that you can use both. :)
I knew how the channel mixer worked, especially the maths aspects, but I've been struggling to use it so far. Thank you for your help. Your video is exemplary. 👌
Beautiful each one of them. I have two different photos of two different orchids, from my garden. Which will be applying this method since they look so delicate and gentle, a beautiful edit with pastel colors came to mind, sure will accentuate their characters in regards of the method you shown. This video could not be more detailed. Thanks Sir.
I have a dreaam.. (not really connected to this interesting video): I suggest a separate video exclusively focusing on the technique of using two successive instances of Tone equalizer in order to enhance details in the lightest areas - demonstrated on a number of suited images, preferably including one with initially high values in white clouds. Would the realization of such a dream be within reach, Boris?
Maybe you are a genius to work with this sotware but your videos does not explain anything on how to use it...unless your idea of teaching is that the student must copy the master without understanding what he is doing. Totally useless for 99% of watchers.
If you had taken a little more time before making your judgments, you would have realized relatively quickly that these are not tutorials, but older, outdated videos that only served as demonstrations of the possibilities of darktable. Tutorials came in later, longer videos. If you want to see tutorials, watch the newer videos.
I have followed your three 'colour harmonies' videos. A lot to learn, but very clearly presented. I love that by your commentary you are explaining your thinking - the why as welll as the how. Thank you so much.
