Filming my van project and other Projects I work on. Goal for my van is to make a 4x4 stealth camper van. To go camping on and explore places. I also do a lot of road cycling and mountain biking. So you may see a very of different content on my channel.
Whoever works on Kia they are Dummy. Why to put the fuse for alternator together with a bunch of other fuses, so we are obligated to buy the whole shit?
@@WrenchlifeinJoco But where? I see some but is not the same me figure out than you show it in the video. I wish I could make video; it won't be like those missing points.
bad struts will also blow out ball joints, i learned this on my mdx. they dont make em like they used to thts for sure. 2014 mdx needed new front struts at 100k. I rode out my first 05 mdx to 211k never needed a suspension component replaces.
@@WrenchlifeinJoco Dang I live in Maine. I just changed my lifters and rollers and still have a ticking noise. Also loss of power sometimes. Any suggestions? My tick is intermittent. It ticks cold or hot and up to 2000 rpms then goes away.
@@jermiahanton3861 it took driving around 40 to 50 miles before the lifters blended all the air out on some of the ones I’ve done. I try to leave the new lifters submerged in oil over the weekend but sometimes it takes some miles to get all the air out. On one truck I did I reused the old cam phasers and that truck still had a ticking noise. Ever since then if I go inside one, I replace lifters, rocker arms, camshafts and phasers.
@@WrenchlifeinJoco Can a cam phaser cause ticking? Also I only replaced driver side rocker and rollers because the noise is on that side. Ford wants $1400 just for phasers
@@jermiahanton3861 yea ford parts are high! My opinion one side has the same amount of miles as the other. Just bit the bullet and replace both sides. You can use aftermarket lifters, rocker arms, camshafts and timing set. BUT run FORD phasers. Trust me, I ran into this on a 5.4 I will never put aftermarket phasers again.
Most Rustoleum says wait 48 hours before re-coat but I have found you need to let it cure for a week before you can spray ANYTHING on it. And sometimes that's not enough time. It is very good paint though once it completely cures.
@@WrenchlifeinJoco I’m not an expert, but my experience is that oil base paint can take several day to fully cure. You have to re-coat within the flash time, within an hour, or let it fully cure before re-coating.
Best I remember I unbolted the bracket and pulled the hole thing out. The clip to release it is on the back side so it was impossible to stick a pick or pocket screwdriver in it while on vehicle.
@@jasondjenkins I think I had to go though the fender well to get all the bolts. It was a pain in the rear. I’ll look at one of the trucks in the morning and give you another reply. I know that doesn’t help you right know, but I’ve done so much since then.
@@jasondjenkins I googled mounting bracket and it came to a bracket for sale on eBay. After looking at it I remembered it has one bolt plus bottle of bracket is snapped into frame. And looped around another hose with zip ties. I cut the zips ties. This is the eBay listing that pulled up. If you what a good look at the bracket. 2018 - 2020 FORD F-150 A/C HEATER SOLENOID CONTROL VALVE OEM JL3418C310EA
I seen that before on an older truck. (1993) with 351w It was the flex plate cracked. Other than that, that’s the only time I ran into that. Sorry I can’t be any more help.
Really helped me out being a youngin. I have a 05 ford f150 4.6 xl . Bought some off ebay and im having same problem on driver side. Was gunna try and wrap it with exhuast wrap but im actually a welder so thank you again
It was around 1800 for parts best I can remember. All parts came from Ford dealership. ( I work for the government so have to buy from contract.) but you can buy the parts cheaper from Amazon. But you have to put ford phasers in it. I had a run in with aftermarket phasers on 5.4 engines. I only use ford phasers and sensors. Hope this helps. Thanks
Chasing a similar issue on a Ford reman, zero mile with run time only. Engine is whisper quiet at startup (for a Coyote) but once it reaches operating temp, all sorts of tapping on the passenger side, seems to fade out above 1800 RPM. Thoughts? 2011 F-150
I know on the ones I’ve done. The new lifters took couple miles before they quit down. Even let them sit in oil over the weekend. If it’s a reman engine, I would definitely pull that side valve cover off after driving it to see if a spring has broken or rocker arm not center.
@@WrenchlifeinJoco thanks for the reply. Even with some miles, sometings amiss. Repeatable only once engine reaches operating temp, no issues cold. It seems possbily the lash adjuster bleeeding down, not holding pressure? It's odd, I'll post back once I figure it out. Wrench on!
Heater stopped working completely, changed the heater control valve fixed it than about a month later I get no heat unless given more than half throttle not sure if it’s this valve again or not
The experience I had with heater control valve is it stopped working completely. What you are describing sounds like low coolant or air in the system. That’s just my experience
I bought a 2020 F150 5.0 "rebuild-able core" for a coyote swap, and I found part of a roller from a rocker arm and a bunch of needle bearings in the oil pan. So yeah, those things do fail. Not a cheap or easy fix either. Luckily I already have a different set of heads and don't have to deal with that problem. Those rocker/lifter failures typically cause this ticking noise.
I just purchased a 2018 rcsb f150 a few days ago. I’ve wanted one forever and finally found one like I wanted. I test drove it before I bought it and heard virtually no noise at all. Now I’m catching that “type-writer tick” at idle. It has 42k miles. I’m not really sure what to do with it. My good buddy is a mechanic at my local dealership and has spoken with his master tech who was informed by fords engineer that it was normal. I’m 22 kinda strapped for cash right now after just purchasing. Would it be ok to continue to drive it? Or should I switch to a secondary vehicle until I can get the money to get the truck checked out?
Ford also told us it’s normal. We continue to drive ours until it got to the point where it sounded like a very loud diesel. (The ones I’ve gone into has over 150k only one that had less than 100k and it ended up being the phasers) With only 42k, I would keep driving it.
@@WrenchlifeinJoco I gotcha well thank you so much for the info. I’m going to continue to drive it until it gets too bad. I have another vehicle to drive so I don’t have to solely rely on the truck luckily. Just sucks considering I just got it.
Do an oil change and add a bottle of “liqui moly ceratec“ to your oil. It’s a anti friction additive. It silenced the lifter ticking on my mustang gt. It’s $30 a bottle though but it works.
I’ve got a 2018 f150 5.0 with an awful startup grinding/rattle… any idea where I should start as far as diagnosing the issue? Also has a loud idle like its a diesel
