I'm just doing mine Escape 1.6 gasoline... same problem: long block cylinder's top bended cause leak... I'm not changing the long block. I want to repair it a different way. What bothers me is that it took you 6 over six months to do it ahahaha... this is my socond month and I'm doing it under the sky in a unpleasant weather ...
Haha, you and my wife both.😁 The super sad part is im a mobile mechanic, so I spend the majority of my career working outside in all the elements. This project was inside a dry, heated/air conditioned barn.
@Fixed-ish I understand you, bro. I'm doing mine after my normal work as well. Seems like regardless of geography, wives tend to be the same 🤣. Sorry about that, I didn't mean to criticize 😉. I'm happy that yours Escape works fine. In Europe this model is called Kuga 2. I'm trying to remove my long block now. Removing all equipment sitting on it... I plan to leave the clutch and gearbox in the engine bay, untouched.... It's not easy but doable...
Nice work. I work for an industrial battery company out of Nashville TN. I use a small torch setup and have a carbon rod setup for a backup. We just use a chain with the forklift to pull the batteries out and also use it to pull the cell.
Before the crane that's how I'd been doing cells, using a forklift with that same vice grip looking tool. I recently posted another video doing a cell/post repair and wish I did it with the torch instead of the arc. If you get a chance, check it out. Thanks for the watch!
@@Fixed-ish licensed for man lifts, forklift and telehandlers. Never operated a big red, as their known in our steel plant but the first three I mentioned I did as part of a job. Have u? Think about your comments
@@coreysim-th9tl I've done a lot with this job. Worked on all sorts of aerial equipment, telehandlers, small and large forklifts, rail car movers, shuttle trucks, electric/diesel/gas/LP of all brands. Drove and worked on them all. Not sure about the last part of your comment though? Thanks for watching and commenting!!!
I used to work on industrial batteries like that. We used a drill bit made for removing the cable or cell connectors. I was taught to use an oxy/propane torch. Blew out the gasses from nearby cells so as not to blow off a cap. It was cool seeing it done that way.
I have used the torch and done it that way. It actually has a better finish product. I like the carbon arc because it's simple and gets the job done. I think for this iob a torch would have been the better option.
I learned a similar technique in the British Army. We had no carbon rods as you have here, so we used to take ordinary small ('C' type) batteries apart to get the carbon rod out of them and used that. As ya do. I'll be honest, our method seemed to penetrate to a deeper area than yours does, but each to their own. If it works! Thanks for reminding me of the days I spent either frozen or up to my knees in mud, repairing battery posts on Tanks and various armoured vehicles.
That's awesome! Funny how we might have been miserable at the time but looking back, we wouldn't trade it for the world. Thanks for the story and taking the time to comment.
@@Fixed-ish It's my pleasure. It's gratifying to see someone unwilling to label something as 'broken' until it's truly beyond repair. I believe that welding fabricators and blacksmiths are underrated trades and are rarely paid what they're worth. The welder/fabricator or blacksmith is often the last resort after a series of failed repair attempts, non-working fixes, and the dashed hopes of the 'That's not hard' crew. Only then are the broken, twisted, and almost unrecognizable pieces presented to the tradesman, telling him how everyone but himself had a hand in messing it up, and "Do you think you can fix this cheaply? I wouldn't ask, but I spent so much on the people who couldn't fix it so have only a little left to pay you." Such is life. 🙂 I have subbed and I'll settle down for a while and see what else you have been doing. I have had a quick glance and it all seems very watchable stuff so, well done. I am sure your RU-vid presence will take off really quickly. As you progress though, you'll attract the naysayers who will try to bog you down in arguments instead of accepting that different people do things differently. Ignore them and you'll do fine. Stay safe.
got your answer for you. Need to bring it to the dealer and relearn the IDS. Fixed mine. They said after an engine replacement you need to have it relearned. $200.
Did you figure it out? I have the exact same thing going on a a 2018 Ford escape that i just did the engine on. Always 1 and 4, never either, always both. I swapped plugs, coil packs, cleaned the injectors, compression tested, boroscoped the cylinders......... I actually threw in the towel and dropped it off at the dealership this afternoon so they can hook it to their scanner. My fuel pressure was at 2195 on the Freeze frame. I know when you get the flashing engine light and the misfire the PCM shuts those injectors off so it doesn't cause any damage.
Approx 6v is enough to get it done and not risk blowing out the side of the cell interconnector. If they are really thin connectors I'll wrap a wet towel around the edge to prevent that from happening
Not 100% sure. It's either a steam port or a way to cool the siamese bore. It's probably needed for reliability to make the kind of power it does for such a small engine. As for just doing head gaskets, still a lot of work and I've known people to get less than 30k before gasket failure. We put that many miles on our cars annually, that'd get old AND expensive. Haha
Don't enjoy yourself too much. It's really not that bad honestly, if I just took a few days off and tried to do it in one sitting, maybe 30 hours doing it this way...
Absolutely. Little bit of fire damage on the house. My 12 year old saved the day with a well timed call to the fire department. Proud as hell of her presence of mind.
Weld it up or weld a new blank in. I haven't bought one in several years but a deep set bucket was almost a grand. I know they have to be alot more expensive now. That being said I'm not a welder. Sounded good thoough lol
Light at the end is becoming visible. I think next I'll get my lift pump kit installed on the 6.0 powerstroke I've been putting off. What kind of projects are you guys doing?
Ballast resistor lowers the voltage to the coil during normal operation. Prevents overheating and extends the life of the coil. In the example I showed (probably could have done a better job) the bottom side of the resistor has a bypass wire coming from the "cranking" side of the keyswitch. That way cranking voltage isn't reduce during starting since the starter already draws a lot of power. Once you let off the start position, the 12v runs through the resistor to power the coil from then on at a reduced voltage.
@@Fixed-ish yeah thats correct, when the car starts the voltage drops to around 9 volts so when the engine is running the resistor reduces the coil voltage down to a lower potential otherwise "as you state" the coil would be overloaded and get very hot and boil the oil in the coil, sometimes there is a connection that runs from the starter solenoid to the resistor and only energises whilst the starter is operated
Hopefully this helps people with ignition components and theory. Sometime its easier to visualize things when your hands are on the pieces doing show & tell.
Haha. We don't have shop techs so that my office peeps running around doing odds and ends around the shop. They pop in occasionally to talk and are curious as to what's happening.
