The voice that guides you through Home Automation HomeKit tips, creative DIY projects, and tips to optimize your home and digital life. I'm building the home studio, so if you're interested in audio and voiceover, subscribe!
Voiceover, Tech, DIY
Social Media Facebook: facebook.com/KylersStudio/ Instagram: Kylers_Studio Email: KylersStudio@gmail.com
I had about 15 ratchet straps that were in a big rats nest, I had to watch your video a few times but figured it out, great video, got them all in order now. Don't mind your little one in the video either. thanks.
C'mon dude! Clean up those wires in the switch-box before connecting your wire nuts to freshly stripped wires. Great dialogue though due to concise, gramatical verbal, articulation! Language expert here. Ha!
I can't believe how many awesome comments are on here for this man and his child he had one critical who lost their attention span lost interest but wow the feedback from everyone else you all are beautiful it was nice to see and read so caring loving gentle ways of being get it
This design is very intresting and unique. you can be proud, you sparked new ideas into my brain. i'll have to rething maybe how i want to build mine. Still rocking this setup or you made changes? Cheeers from Belgium
Does anyone you know have the Proflight 2 for GA use? I just returned a pair of DC One-Xs because the left ear ANR was acting up while shooting an approach. I'm in the market for a premium headset and I'm torn between over the ear, or taking the leap with the Proflight 2s.
The ProFlight 2 is very lightweight if you fly a lot of hours during the day, but if those in-ear seals ever move or open, there is no amount of active noise reduction that will help. The noise is the primary deterrent for the ProFlights in GA.
Romex (aka NM cable) should never be run exposed, EXCEPT between joists. That includes between studs. If it is exposed within easy access, it should be in conduit.
I know this all worked… for now. But there’s quite a few code violations here. And that outside outlet isn’t going to stay in place for long as the stucco is going to crumble under load from the box and swing arm clamps as things are plugged in and unplugged.
Anytime I do a DIY project I like to watch a few videos to brush up as prep. This was like the 3rd video I watched and I thought “his voice sounds familiar!” Then I saw your channel name and realized “hey I know him IRL!” Thanks for the video, really well done! Hope things are going good for you! Now to go try and install an outlet for the RV pad at my house so I can stop running ridiculously long extension cords haha.
Thanks for the review. I am currently using qc35 with ufly on the 787-9. I will be upgrading to the a30's. Having thr XLR power the system will be a game changer. In regards to the glasses. Have you tried Sereghetti drivers gradient. Non-polarized, with enough gradient to read charts. Also the arms on the glasses are so thin you don't notice them under the seal. Thanks again for the review!
Glad you enjoyed the review! The 78 would be an awesome airplane! Yes, the power and not dealing with batteries are absolutely worth the upgrade. I haven't tried the Sereghetti, but I am liking the Ombraz: a little awkward to get on and off, but really comfortable under the earpads. Thanks for watching and commenting.
If I'm not using smart switches, but simple old school toggle switches, then the switches will not have neutral (white) wires to connect to the cluster of other neutrals in the box, correct? Simply connect the black "line" wire coming from the breaker panel to each switch, the unique wires to each switch, and a ground wire from each switch to the cluster of grounds, correct? No, neutrals from the switches to the cluster of neutrals. Sound right?
If you have an old house without neutral wires, it sounds logical that each individual switch would yes, just switch on power to each separate powered section of the light fan unit. Newer fans will have a neutral wire if you have that in your system. This is not electrical wiring advice, as I am not an electrician, but it sounds like you're on the right track to close each circuit individually with a separate switch.