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Thin wall fusion of SS or TT is easy, try heavy wall thickness in position not playing rolly polly in the flat position. 20 year veteran welder here, so my point is a professional insiders point of view. Get back to me when your welding out high thickness TT in a set position.
I’d love to try it, I tig heavy aluminum at my day job, sometimes in the vertical position and it’s definitely a bit more difficult than thin wall stuff. I’ve done plenty out of position welding in the past but it’s just not required for this.
This dudes comment makes me think they're huffing to much SS fumes. Why on earth would you even use thick wall TT for a motorsports application? That would be a massive waste of both material/money. But yeah what a bad ass because they have welded thick wall before 😂😂
Lean is mean that's from Brian. Mine set at 3.5 from top if i go up any higher the turbo takes a long time to start talking. Top hat Fuel pen. Timing bump 3200 spring ccv air dog fuel pump
I don't know if it's still on the market but about 7 yrs ago there was a Hurst shifter available for the NV 4500. My friend had one in his 93 2500. Bad ass.
I've watched many videos of this type. What stands out (and I did not know this nor did any videos point it out) but your tungsten size and rod size are critical. the cup size I get....gas coverage..all these YT videos are in it to sell their goods and kits. Only around last Christmas a pro welder came over to my place to help me set up my TIG box. I did a quick demo for him on some 18ga and he said....your filler rod is too big. and for thin material go to a 1/16th tungsten. made a ton of difference. I felt embarrassed. I just didn't know these things. I may tackle what you are doing in the video, again.
in my opinion i would have done 2 passes i would have rooted the gap in one weld with gas purge by laying rod not dab prob at 120 with foot petal ark would be prob around 90 ish i cant tell the thickness in video... i weld at roughly 105 a for sch 10 2.5 inch and i think that 2.5 so i might be to hot...aim more on the thick metal you will have to control your ark and amp to do this or it will key open faster then you can imagine. then then cool it down and make it look pretty 2nd pass by walking the cup for my cap when still purging... but that's my opinion and i like making my caps look awesome.. honestly it you are very carful you could still make what you have look amazing. its hard too make a big gap like that look good but take like a dinofile or something that you can control a lot and knock down the high spots of the weld. put it in a position rig your gas again so you don't sugar. and you have a few options. 1 to a zig zag free hand dap a 1/16 rod on each side be consistent on your zig zag just slightly wider then the widest spot of the first pass..... 2. walk the cup imo its easier to lay rod and walk for me at least again slightly wider then the first pass . or your 3 option is move forward a normal amount. then up about 1.5 puddles (that should be about the width you need to cover the pass) of what your ark puddle is and ad a dab then move to the bottom and ad another dab move forward and up 1.5 a puddle ad a dab move to bottom and another dab and repeat for whole weld it will give a 2 pass stacked weld kind of look. practice what you wanna do before you do it. so DONT throw it away if you don't like how the welds looks.....
This gap was too big to lay a root with laywire and make it look nice that’s why I used this method. To do laywire I would have to move super slow and bridge the gap with the wire which would definitely not end up looking good and would put a lot of heat into it. This wasn’t an ideal situation, wish I could’ve found a bigger flange but it’s not a very common turbo.
@@MotoFabPerformance dude i did a joint that was worse then this today it was pretty much the same set up as this guess what the gap was inbetween the pipe and bunghole it was over a 1/4 in gap. and guess what i did i layed wire on and you pretty much push a few rod in the weld.. the first pass wasnt pretty but it was a solid root....and this is where im gonna say did you even read my fucking comment 2 passes. the first one you use to connect it once its connected you can make the 2nd weld and cap it. thats why i told you to grind the highspots so its easier to keep a uniformed weld... so dont give me this gap is to big bull shit. if the gap is to big your a fucking welder make it smalller then make it pretty
@@gongha4484I’m not saying that won’t work i’m just saying this is my preferred method and it works well. To run a root on this laying wire and connecting the two would be very slow and put a lot of heat into the part. I just find this to be the better way for this situation. Definitely better to do a laywire root in other situations though
Could you have hammered the gap down carefully with something inside as a dolly, so not showing hammer marks, just forming it down tighter before welding?
