Hi Daniel, I'm a little late to reply here but the 20 degree angle was to remove material that could potentially be in the way if the wall corner/angle was more than 90 degrees. If I hadn't done that it could potentially push the face of the trim joint apart and create a gap. Hope that makes sense.
can you have piers under the slab and piers above the slab with caps and no block wall to support the house? (In other words, a house is sitting on 9 feet high piers, and the piers are sitting on a slab (a raft) that has localized thickenings underneath where reinforced concrete vertical beams were casted in place as part of the footings. Another way to express what I am asking: Is it code to lift a house on beams without block walls to support it (essentially walkout basement without block walls kind of like a beach house on stilts, but the soil is loamy) If no, why not?
I ran into this exact same problem. My eave vents were clogged with dust, and I was overusing the humidifier in extreme cold weather. New vents and keeping the humidity lower fixed the problem.
Thank you. What would your thoughts be in regards to a similar problem, but in a 2 story houses. The room leaking being on first floor over a rarely used master bathroom. When it rains, that's when I can hear water dripping onto the other side of ceiling. Would appreciate some advice.
Hello Christopher, Is it possible that there is a plumbing vent pipe exiting the roof over this area? If the roof flashing around this pipe isn't sealed or has deteriorated that could cause this issue. If that's the case the water could follow the pipe down through the attic, through the wall on the second floor, and down into the second floor joist space. Where that pipe turns and goes horizontal the water can drip off the pipe. This can also happen with furnace vents, bath fan vents, etc. Hope that helps.
Literally was on the job. I tried messing with the hinges but nothing worked. I Put my pride to the side and RU-vid how to fix a door that won't stay open lol Your video fixed my problem immediately. Thank you very much!
Really fine but don't move the guard on the miter saw up with your hand. How about some safety? Although you do mention don't put you hand on the blade that's what the guard is for.
Always explain why you're crawling like a monkey in the attic so if rookies go up there looking around, they stay on the wood and don't bust thru the ceiling. PSA
I am going to add some quarter round under my cabinets, using a coping saw was really hard to use, I ended up getting my angle grinder, worked perfectly, then used my file to smooth it. First time doing it, felt pretty proud, cause I screw up all the time
For what it's worth, I went and purchased a cordless Dremel tool, and never looked back. I've never had such a miserable time with a tool, as I had with that coping saw. As a matter of fact, I think that saw became the dremels first dismemberment project. Anyway, something else that helped me tremendously, was using some 150-grit sand paper on the round part of the quarter round to get the curved "contact" edge perfect with just 2-3 sec of sanding. You're probably already done with the project, but thought I'd give you my two cents, given I had a very similar experience. HUGE salute to men like this who found a way to make that coping saw work...I can't imagine the amount of time it took to get proficient at that. I'm finding that most DIY'ers hate it.
@@phillamoore157 I might have to try that. I can see what the guy is doing, and it looks really simple, but every single time I try it, it just doesn't work.
You saved my sanity! I've been dealing with my bathroom door swinging shut and couldn't figure out how to fix it. I've tried the shim but didn't work. The two pins bent did it. Thank you!
A-friggin-men, brother. I've come really close to leaving some nasty comments, then deleted it because they're just trying to help. But, between people's horrific communication skills, poor "teaching" skills, and not having a clue as to how to shoot a video.....there's some real crap out there that waste's a LOT of time. That's the problem with platform's with zero standards for who posts what.
Many moons ago, I put a tin roof on a row house in D.C. 3/12 pitch, 1" standing seam. Leak showed up. Measured the stain, went up on roof. Sure enough, little 1" pipe penetration. I made a conical hat for it and called it a job. A week later customer calls again. Still leaking. "Wait a minute," I said. "It hasn't rained." Went back. Turns out it was an old over flow tank for the steam radiators. Home had radiators removed. They just sealed the line and left the tank in the crawl space. Every time it rained tank got water from the roof vent. It finally rusted out and started seeping. It would have stopped, eventually because of my hat. Us tearing the old roof off is probably what broke it's back. What a trip.
Thanks for the ideas, I couldn’t get it to work after 2 pins, (I live in a apartment & didn’t want to bother the neighbors) but I held the pin with Vice grips, suspended the pin between 2 pieces of wood, I tap, it bent, back in and door is fixed. Thanks!
Thanks for shooting the video as you were doing the fix and showing how you had to go to two pins. I had to do all three pins on my solid wood exterior door before it would work. I would have otherwise stopped at the first pin and given up. Thanks again.
