This RU-vid channel is an extension of the maker and technology blog: uptimefab.com/ For any article where a video is helpful to further clarify an issue or subject, I will post a video on this channel.
the youtube gods blessed me with this video again in my feed so i thought i'd share my experience. i first found this build series around 3 years ago when i was planning my cnc build. i spent months pouring over the build series, studying your schematics and parts list, watching corvetteguy50 since you recommended his stuff, and i ended up using a lot of the same or similar parts. i felt like this series struck the perfect balance of explaining and showing "how-to" without getting boring. i ended up going from "i dont know how a cnc works" when i first found this video to cutting chips in about 6 months. anyways, the point of this comment is to say thank you for this build series, and the resources on your blog. it was a huge, HUGE help.
Thank you for taking the time to write such a nice comment. The main reason for making this video series was to share what I had found during my research, trail and error with the hope that it would be helpful for others diving into the DIY CNC world. Great to see it was helpful! Thanks again
Bedankt! Ik heb helaas geen video met alle instellingen. Er staan wel settings die ik heb gewijzigd in de pdf in de link onder de video, maar inderdaad niet uitgelegd in detail. Volgens mij heb ik destijds wel een video van een andere gebruiker gezien met settings op youtube.
Hi you cannot connect servo motors that require a feedback loop to the controller. I think you could connect servo drives that have an internal feedback loop, but I have not tried this. I was planning to try this with a cheap servo motor set, but this is not on the short term planning.
Hi, I am not sure if this applies to Emco 50 lathes or parts in general, but I just measured some delrin parts and for diameter I am well within +/-0.01mm. (stdev 0.0025). For length it is a bit less accurate with stdev 0.0088 on this specific set of parts.
Peace be upon you. I want help. I purchased two control panels, model SZGH-CNC990TDb, 2-axis lathe CNC controller. SZGH-CNC990TDb 3-axis lathe CNC controller I am working on the Match 3 program I want to install the szgh control. I want a video of the motor settings for the size of the machine. I am not starting with the szgh control. Please help.
Hi, I am not sure if you mean spindle motor or stepper motor, but regardless I would just use the same size or amp rating that already came with the machine. I am probably not the right person to make a video about this, also I do not have time to make request videos, since I barely have any time to make videos based on my own ideas. Sorry about this, bit of you stick with known sizes you would probably be ok. That is what I also did with my lathe, buy a similar rated motor. Best, Robin
The concentricity error is because you removed the bar after drilling and tapping. Even just loosening the jaws and re-clamping will change how they are clamped. You would either have to indicate it in using the 4-jaw or re-drill and tap every time you take it our of the chuck...
Thanks for the tips, there is indeed quite a bit of eccentricity when using the 3 jaw. Once I get faster at Centering parts with the 4 jaw chuck, I will probably use that more frequently.
very cool video - nice work. It is very much the same as a compact 5.. I am in the process of replacing the existing ball screws with 1204.. I have the hard parts done. (hardest was getting it to fit under the x cross slide. - no major mods)
Hi, thanks for leaving a comment. Soldering is not my specialty indeed. I am using solder with flux built in and thought that this would suffice, but it is good to know that separate flux is better for soldering larger parts, thanks for the tip.
Hi, unfortunately I am not aware of the history of this lathe. Maybe a previous owner swapped out some parts. From the lead screw I did not get the feeling that it was not original though, since I did not see any modified parts to accommodate a different design. But I am not sure. Could also be a different "revision" compared to your lathe.
Hi Robin: I have an Emco 5 CNC Lathe, and it seems to be almost the same as yours. Mine is just the lathe without the case or driver that yours has. So I have a GRBL driver board for the Steppers. However in setting it up, the Ball Screw is neither Metric or English units ? Measuring it shows that 10 Revolutions of the Stepper is 9.72 mm ! Is this the same with your Emco CNC ? Can you tell me how your system handles such odd units ? Anything you can tell me about setting up an Emco 5 would be greatly appreciated! Thanks James
Hi James, good question. I am not sure what the actual gearing ratio on my pulleys is, so I can't calculate the exact steps per revolution. One way to do this is to count teeth on each pulley, but I just measured the output on the axis, similar to what you did. In the SZGH controller you can add any virtual "gearing ratio" to correct the output so it measures the input distance in your program. The virtual ratio has an integer input for the numerator denominator of this ratio, so I just multiplied both by 1000, effectively giving me 3 decimals to fine tune. The x axis is a round number (8 to 1) with 10000 microsteps per rev. The z axis is not with 6440/1000 for 8000 microsteps per rev. Anyway, the numbers are not important really. The only important thing is that it can be adjusted. Hope this helps.
Given the environment in which the bearings exist I feel like rubber sealed would be the obvious choice but the fact that emco decided to go with shielded instead makes me question my knowledge. I highly doubt they did it for cost reasons. Maybe the rubber seals are more likely to get damaged by swarf over time and ultimately the steel shields are actually more protective but that's the only thing I can really think of.
Thanks! Interestingly they also used bearings with a shield on only one side, with the other side open, which can't be reached to lubricate it. So I just went with the double shielded type.
@@uptimefab7412 Yeah that is weird. I guess they figured since the other side was in a sealed area it couldn't be contaminated. Maybe they were planning on making that area greasable which would explain wanting the outside to be shielded and then just never did or changed the design and never changed the bearing type
Muchas gracias por tu generosidad, excelente trabajo, felicitaciones, por favor me podrias decir el diametro de los cables que usaste para las conexiones de las señales de paso de los drivers que se conectan a la controladora ddcs v3.1, por lo que veo son cables delgados, muy agradecido, exitos, saludos
Hi, if I understand correctly after google-translate, you are wondering what diameter wire I used for the signal wires from the DDCS to the stepper drivers. These can be very small, I used 0.14mm^2. However, this is not advisable, since even with the smallest ferrule it is difficult to get them securely tightened, so the ferrule stays in place. For a later build (my lathe) I used the larger 0.34mm^2 wire for signal wires. Much easier to work with and ferrules are more securely tightened. Note that I do not know what the industry standard is, this is just what I use. Also i would like to note that for the wires going to the stepper motors I am using much thicker wire (0.75mm^2) since they carry high current.
@@uptimefab7412 very grateful, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge, my best regards to you to carry out your projects and continue helping with your knowledge, please, if it is not too much to ask, can I bother you? in the future to complete my project, I also want you to know that I am copying your project, I hope you are not offended, I am very new to this, I do it to learn in my free time, your project is an example for many people who want to learn , I am from Argentina, here it is very difficult for me to get the materials you used, but I am getting it little by little, when I have it finished I will show it to you and share it with you, I hope it turns out well, congratulations and thank you very much again, for everything, sorry If something was translated wrong, I'm using the translator, good luck
If you need to adjust the gibs again you can do it from below. There is a plastic plug in the sheet metal. Move the z axis to align the screws on the jibs to adjust
Hi, I cannot measure the diameter under the dust cover, but it should be 8mm. Also dimensions like pitch can be derived from the ball nut. Spec for that is in one of the other comments and also on te website article at uptimefab.com. click "continue reading" under the video link on my website.
Hi, I have not removed any questions. Strange... I did get a question yesterday about where to buy the ball nut and when I wanted to answer it, the question was already gone. Sometimes people remove their own comment but I still have the notification, so I thought that was the case. Was that your question? If so, here is the link: store.boschrexroth.com/Linear-Motion-Technology/Screw-drives/Ball-screw-assemblies/Ball-screw-nuts/BALL-NUT_R153223002?cclcl=en_HR#&cartId=ba21b2e4-6c86-4339-bc26-3287e1885d3c&reloaded=true
@@uptimefab7412 Yes that was my questions, thank you. Strange :D Maybe RU-vid removed it for some reason. Now i check your other videos and you put link there to the forum for Emco users, Thank you for that too, that is great!
@@NMCFPV RU-vid removes a ton of comments lately - if you post a link and are not the video owner, it will be removed. Sometimes it's removed for seemingly no reason
14:21 yes. and with this C7 ball screws there must be 1 missing ball in each chain (if you pack them full they will stuck). this also applies to linear rails.
Thanks for the tip! These look like some nice general use end support bearing blocks. I'll have a look at this if I ever want to replace the bearings on the fixed side (and can't get them out).
Hello first congratulations on the very good video Secondly, I would like to know if you had problems with rotation and feed variation. Because I'm using a command like this and when I tell the plate to rotate it goes beyond the programmed value, the same thing happens with the advance, I tell it to advance at 300mm/min, it advances at 360mm/min, did you have this problem, could you help me solve it?
Hi I am not sure which axis you are having issues with. You mention "rotate" but then also mm/min. Could you ley me know if the issue is with the turret, spindle or X/axis?
Hi, thank you, I am typically using LAPP cables for this type of application. They have all sorts of variants ( shielded/not shielded, wire thickness and wire quantity). The button is a generic momentary contact button. Can't recall where I bought this specific one, but they are sold at many stores like Conrad or Reichelt in Europe.
Seems silly to have an encoder with 4096 counts per spindle rotation, but the controller reduces it to a much less accurate 0 to 359 degrees? Is that just for display? Surely for auto threading etc the controller will make use of the full spindle resolution?
Yes, my guess would also be that it is just rounding the display value but uses the actual resolution. Since there are also versions of this controller with a 4th axis (C) it would not make sense to round to full degrees. For threading that would probably be fine though.
Hi, for the MG400 the vacuum pump is a separate accessory as some customers would only use a gripper and in that case don't need a vacuum pump. It is not the same as the one for Magician. It has different connections and is physically a different type.
@uptimefab7412 Thanks for the response. One would assume that they would provide a vacuum generator as only a suction cup was provided, not the gripper arm as you mentioned.
Sorry I might not have explained this very well. What I meant is that I received a vacuum cup with the demo unit, not that it is typically included with th MG400. Also, what is or is not included might differ per country and dealer, so make sure to check before buying.
I have received the same mg400 kit (same packaging list card you showed), so maybe it's the default? Will have to buy the extra vacuum pump then in the future 🤷♂️
Thanks for your comment. A number of other people have mentioned this. There is a lot of conflicting information about this topic. I know hobbyists do it and I have also seen commercially available equipment with the VFD inside the same cabinet as other electronics. There is of course the risk of EMI and heat dissipation. When these are mitigated it should be possible. However, I have no reliable way to measure EMI but heat dissipation is fine in my case. So that leaves us with that it is not possible as an amateur/hobbyist to determine if there will be issues with EMI. I would therefore not recommend other people to do this, but this is what I am doing and so far it worked. If you have any links to where people can find information on EMI guidelines for VFDs it would be greatly appreciated. Best, Robin
@uptimefab7412 you can buy EMF readers. Generally, people do YT to help and don't intentionally want to mislead people, but the problem with the Internet is that people can come across as though they know what they are talking about. It's difficult to find genuine experts. Even suppliers' kits, especially from China, are poorly put together. Kits with individual PSUs for each stepper should be avoided. It is better to have 1 larger PSU and get one with built-in RFI suppression. Ideally, you want to keep your high and low voltage circuits away from each other as much as possible.
I hope that I did not come across as a professional. Indeed there is a lot of information by non-experts and I may have just added some more myself. I think it is good to keep in mind that all of this project is hobby level stuff. This includes the electronics but also the router itself. Having said this, I have searched extensively for wiring practices and EMI design rules. There seem to be a lot of things that work and on the other hand there are many experts that say how things should be done (mostly without source) referring to how it is done in industrial equipment. Since I am not able to find the answers online I went with what was the most practical solution and made it work with what I have. This is also my way of working in a hobby project, not recommend to others. I have found many articles saying that the VFD can or should be put in a separate enclosure in case of issues (no references to standards prescribing this requirement). But also a lot of people just placing the VFD in the same enclosure. I just took the practical approach to place it in the same enclosure if I don't experience issues, which I don't. Also not with my lathe, where the VFD is also in the same cabinet. Thanks for the tip on the EMF meter. Looks like great equipment for troubleshooting. Many videos about paranormal stuff, so I would also have to find my way to good information there. Sorry for the long-winded answer. This actually means I don't have a good answer :).
Hi, sorry I don't have a lot of time to make videos currently, so I can't do request videos. The G76 command has quite a lot of parameters. Hope you can make it work with the manual. I have not manually programmed threads using G76. I only used G32 or as output from fusion360.
Thanks for your comment, much appreciated. The cabinet is the Famatel 39145. If you need info to other parts they should all be listed in my website article linked in the description. Somewhere in the Middle of the article. Best, Robin
This could have many possible causes, but it might be good to start checking if the pin out of the program is the same as the physical connections. Did you try running the display with a simple example program? This could eliminate hardware or wiring issues as a cause.
@@uptimefab7412 Thank you for your reply. I have solved this problem now. Can I ask you about visual calibration again? My side now displays---The calibration mode fails to start
buen dia , tengo poco en mi empleo y encontre este robot en las pertenencias del antecesor mio , el software para continuar el proycto con este robot , sabe alguien donde lo puedo descargar y si tiene costo?
Hi, if I understand correctly from google-translate, you would like to download the software to control the MG400, which is DobotStudio Pro. This software can be found via link below. Make sure to click the "more" button to actually see the full list. Also you first need to create an account to download, which is free. Link: www.dobot-robots.com/service/download-center?keyword=&data_type%5B%5D=2
Hi, I prefer not having a laptop connected to the machine when it is running. This typically means using an old laptop (dusty environment). It then also depends on a USB connection. Also I just like having a dedicated controller. Other people might prefer Mach3. There are pros and cons to both, for hobby use I think it is based on personal preference.
Hallo, we zijn in school een Emco 125 aan het ombouwen en er staan er waarschijnlijk nog een 120 en 105 op de lijst in de toekomst. Het zijn projecten met de studenten. Ja er zijn toch wel een paar vragen die ik jou zou willen stellen. in verband met de turret ja voor deze machines hebben een 8 voudig gereedschap wisselaar en deze geven een 4 bit informatie uit van welke tool, maar ook en loc bit en vooruit en achter uit draaien. Welke informatie heb jij gekregen van SZGH? Het ander probleem is dat er niets deftig van elektrisch schema bij zit van het relais board en daar ook een paar problemen me opduiken zoals de digitale in en uitgangen. heb jij daar ook meer informaite over gekregen.
Hoi, dat zijn mooie machines, leuk project! Ik heb van SZGH alleen een macro voorbeeld gekregen voor mijn turret waarbij ik zelf de posities tel in de macro. Normaal gesproken is de controller ingericht op 1 signaal per tool positie, ook dat werkt inderdaad niet in jouw situatie. In de macro zou je volgens mij wel de 4 bits kunnen inlezen en dan omzetten naar een tool nummer. Helaas heb ik daar geen voorbeeld van. Ik kan je wel helpen aan de manuals die ik van SZGH heb gekregen m.b.t. macro's en PLC. Stuur me even een bericht in het contact form van mijn website Uptimefab.com, dan heb ik je mailadres. Ik zal per ommegaande toesturen wat ik heb. Daarnaast zou ik je aanraden een mail te sturen naar SZGH en uitleggen wat voor machine en type turret je hebt. Ze hebben vast wel een voorbeeld waarmee je kunt starten. Scheelt weer wat uitzoekwerk. Gr, Robin
A little late to the party but if you want to silence your VFD fan then a 'thermal switch' inline with one leg of the fan wiring then place it on the heatsink next to the power electronics would work. Pick a fairly low temperature one but at idle the fan should stay off. I have used a bunch of these on PSU's and test equipment. Good Video too 👍
Thanks for the tip! This indeed seems like a great solution. I might give this a try. The fan is really noisy and most of the time the spindle is off when making a couple of small parts. Of course this is hacking a cooling system on existing equipment so I would not recommend this to others, but without making a video about it I would not mind giving this a try once.