Both basically accomplished the same thing but just in different ways or at least on paper. If your lines are in good shape and sealing you should get the same performance out of both of them. For me I run a pick up tube to the bottom of the tank and bend it the 90 degrees in the opposite direction of the return line. The return line ends up running a few inches the opposite direction and sits up above the supply tube at the bottom of the tank. This is simple and costs about $15 in materials. The joint is a brake compression fit so it shouldn’t have any issue being vacuum tight. My issue with the sump is if it fails (it’s very unlikely to) you are going to have a huge mess. No one likes to drop fuel tanks but honestly on the SD it’s not terrible. Now I have installed sumps for customers and have never had an issue. They are not all created equal and you will need to figure out which one you think is best and fits your needs. Personally I like the Beans Diesel but many other good ones are available. In a sump I also want my return (if equipped) to be higher than the supply line. Having a drain plug is a nice feature as well but also adds another leak point so you will have decent if it’s important for you. Both options are a huge improvement over stock and you can’t go wrong.
Yeah these FB groups kill me. Everyday on the 7.3 pages it's just new guys with stock trucks posting asking which injectors or turbo they should get to make X amount of power. And they don't even know what a tuned truck @300ish feels like yet. And before the FB groups it was the same shit on the forums. Been on the Org for like 15 years and have over 10k posts,
so I'm right there with ya brother. I pray that one day people will learn how to use the search function before they go making a post. Because there's a 110% chance that their question has been answered at least a couple thousand times lmao.
If you bought a used 38r that needs a new center section, then what did you actually pay for? Why anyone would spend $450 on a factory turbo is beyond me, I still can't figure that one out. You can get a billet 5+5 from Swag for $85 bucks and have just as much turbo.
Dude. Just no. More to rebuilding a turbo than just throwing a cheap Chinese wheel in and calling it good. To start with as the trucks are now 20+ years old having fresh bearings and seals inside of what is a pretty good turbo is an advantage. The KC balanced assembly offers the advantage guys running stock injectors everything they claim (better spool up, slightly more boost, lower EGTs, a little more turbo whistle with out being annoying when towing like the WW) these are small gains and for some one on a budget with a highmilage GTP38 it makes sense. Now if you have a toy and your running big injectors then yeah something like a T4 or SXXX swap makes sense. But once again for the farmer with 350+K on his truck or a hot shot driver that pulls every day this isn’t a bad deal. Also the technology that is incorporated into the compressor and turbine wheel is far superior to what it was in the mid 90s basically when this turbo was being developed. Not to mention the advantage of the 360 degree bearing. Once again all small improvements but basically with no trade off. To many times have I seen cheap Chinese wheels on thrown together turbos cause massive damage. I am not trying to be stranded 300 miles from home with a 10,000lb load on the trailer. Now for the second question a new GTP38R BB is around $2100. I got one and the intake tube for $500. I have run the turbo and been pretty happy with it both for daily driving and towing. The in and out play is very very slight but it’s something I know I want to address. Now I could take the 1.00 AR exhaust housing, the ported cover, and the intake tube and add it to the GTP38 if I wanted to (consider the ATS ported housing is over $500 and fits like trash). But I decided to give KC new GTP38R center section a try. They make some bold claims so I am excited to see how it goes. And yes I have run wicked wheels personally and installed a few for customers. The only time I recommend it is if everything on the turbo is tight and you have something like saw blading on the fins from dust contamination or trash getting into the intake. And that’s only if it’s a “get me back on the road as cheaply as possible situation”. Your opinion may be different but I have been doing this a long time.
I hope it helps a bit. That was a darn good truck. I miss having the bigger axle and brakes but still having the front IFS. It rode and drove very nice. My biggest complaint would be why didn’t ford just put 8 lug rims in the stupid thing lol. I mean seriously it would have made life easier. I am sure wheel and tire guys will agree with me.
Would you mind sharing what PID's are important to keep an eye on and what the ranges should be set at for a completely stock 2004 F350 6.0 powerstroke that pulls a 7k race trailer? Thanks, Brian
On the 6.0-Oil temperature, coolant temperatures, trans temperature, boost pressure, FICM voltage, LPOP pressure, HPOP . Probably a few others but those are the basics.
its been 3 years. Still a good investment? I am really considering because PUSHER seems to be the only one offering an EGR connection (live in an area that does emissions).
@@G19amc glad I could help. From my experience Pusher is expensive but the quality and customer service seem to back up the price. Unlike some manufacturers.
How did you set up ignition? Does the Ron Francis wiring have a setup for ignition? I have my swap ready for a 78 ford courier and am not familiar with wiring. Not to sure how to set up ignition, high pressure fuel pump, and will the harness plug right into the stock turbo coupe ecu?
Nice truck, brother had a 97 twin except 2wd,I've seen a few 87-91 style f350 4wd and maybe literally 5or6 fsuperduty4wd like yours, lots don't know you couldn't get a actual dually pickup 4wd ,so I had always assumed the f350 4wd stated as srw and were flatbed fit and dually rim fit. So you couldn't get the f super duty 4wd as a cab and chassis, definitely a plus on the straight axle and leaf springs on the 2wd IMO also. Just rambling and poor folks never know what options are so go with what's seen most .
Still great workhorses. I recommend them a lot to young guys starting out in landscaping. They are cheap and can get the job done when you are just figuring things out. And way better than a $1000+ truck payment.
Hi, I have just been given the same tractor and am going through it to get it running again, but I wanted to mention a little tip that the original glow plugs were 9v and were changed to 12v in the 1980's so behind the dash is a resistor (looks like a spring) so if the glow plugs have been changed and are 12v you need to move all the wires to the left terminal ( as you sit on the tractor) to bypass the resistor and give full battery voltage to the glow plugs. You can measure the voltage on the plugs and see what you are getting. I have a lot to sort out mine kills a good battery just trying to start it!!! I could NOT believe how easily your started. Lots of work ahead. Bon Chance as we say in France. Phil
Recently bought a 91 2 door rwd f250 with a non turbo 7.3 idi for 500$ and it cranks over and seems to be fixable so theres some pretty cheap ones out there too that have potential.
Ran two trucks with 6.2 GM V8 diseasels in them, biggest problem was keeping them cool, the trucks had limited space for a radiator, the other problem was the auto transmissions, the engines could chew them up and spit them out. Still when I left the company one truck, a 5 ton 6x4 Stonefield built like a brick outhouse, it had done well over 400k miles with the 6.2 in it replacing a Ford 3000cc V6 petrol, fuel consumption went from 5.8mpg (US) to 21.6mpg (US), the conversion paid for it's self in 3 months
I have a 82 6.2l blazer this truck had over 750,000 miles on it when I changed the engine it was still running but used oil know have an additional 250,000 miles on it undercarriage needs work but still going strong.
7.3 idi is the most reliable truck ever. Work mans truck. 211,000 miles and running strong on mine. That's considered low miles for these. I get offers for people to buy my truck all the time. I could sale it tomorrow and get an easy 10k. Mines real clean tho. Back seat looks brand new. Amazing trucks. Everything now days is plastic shit that's not realible. Even toyatas gone down hill. Twin turbo v6 explosion and pile of poop with the new tundra.
I have a ton of experience with the 300 ford. Most people dont know, but 80% of the cargo tractors you see pulling baggage are powered by ford 300s. I worked fleet maintenance for Delta and we had probably 500 of these tugs with 300s in them. One day we had one come in with a horrible metal noise coming from it, i knew it needed to looked at more then just an oil change, but we were so back up with repairs we just wrote it up and put it on the back burner. It had enough power to do its work, just sounded horrible. A couple weeks later, we are all caught up and i decided to give that tug a thorough inspection, the noise was almost none existent when i found it, but clearly had a misfire. I found no compression in the #1 cylinder. I removed the cylinder head to find the exhaust valve had dropped and was shoved stem first through the piston. I replaced the valve, and just ground the valve stuck in the piston flush with it. The piston wasnt cracked and when i dropped the oil pan the rod had smashed away any excess stick out. The tug went back into service running better then alot of the other ones and we never had a problem with it for the remainder of my time at delta. The running joke in the shop was we didnt need to work on the tug, we were just looking for hours to bill
They debuted as a late model year for 97. The reason Ford came out with these, is because the supee duty wouldn't come out until 99, also 97 was the last model year for the 250 & 350 old body style. So there was a temporary hole to fill. Also after 99 they still made these, they just changed the name to f150 7700 series.
I have 2 6.2's, both NA, auto (1 is a 700r4, and 1 is a TH400). Both are dead reliable, easy to work on, and easy on fuel. Been good engines. My only complaint is the bolts coming thru from the back on the water pump. Hated that. However, I had a 1994 6.5 Turbo. The electronic injection on that thing was a nightmare. PMD relocated, went through the wiring. It would run 1 day, and not start the next. Finally scrapped it. Could not make it run 2 days in a row. I wish I could have found a 1993 with the non electronic injected turbo. The 6.2's are a 1983 and a 1986. Pulled a lot of trailers with both of them. Like you said, you are not going anywhere fast...but they will go.
I have owned a '93 Silverado with a 6.5 turbo diesel since it was brand new and it runs great. I was a diesel mechanic in the Army so I do all the work on the engine. I do not baby this thing, it stands up to the abuse. I use it for towing my trailers, no problem. Not as fast as the new trucks but light years less expensive
1997 f250 XLT 4x4. Supercab. Yes it looks exactly like this. Hard to find parts. Orilleys came thru for me so far.... now looking for rear emergency brake cables. The journal continues...
I own a ‘94 K2500 Suburban (295K miles) and a ‘99 K2500 Suburban (240K miles), both with 6.5 turbo diesels. They can be needy, but once you do mods for cooling and a larger aftermarket turbo, plus a tune, they are great engines that are easy and cheap to work on. If you have the DS4 injection pump, they no longer make new, nor do they make new rotor heads. They can be converted to DB2 injection pumps. Replace the OEM Harmonic Balancer every 100K, or install a Fluidampner HB which is good for life. Replace injectors every 100K miles. Rest of the work is truck stuff like replacing front end components due to age. I did upgrade both to GMT 800 front brakes and the ‘94 is due for a 14 bolt full floater rear axle with disk brakes from a GMT 800.
I'd watch the bogus Motorcraft plugs on the internet now also. I put 8 new ones on a 5.4 2v. 2000 miles later I got a dead hole miss on cylinder #5. Bought a new coil from FMC and still a miss. Bought a new injector from Bosch and still a miss. I told myself that it couldn't be plugs, 2000 miles since replacing. Replaced the plug knowing I was wasting my time. BINGO! FIXED. A bad plug. I'm 74 year old and have bought Motorcraft plugs my entire life never a bad piece. I'll never trust their parts department again. Threw the other 7 plugs away and replaced with NGK. Running like silk. JMHO.
Love the tractor. I have a G5200 HST that I inherited, and am bringing back to life slowly. Do you have a link on that little fuel pump. Looking to convert mine as well for some more fuel pressure. Cheers from Canada
My neighbor had a early 80's 6.2 Suburban and he loved it but in about 8 years and about a 170000 miles or so it was on its third transmission,, one rear end replacement, and a CRAZY number of injection pumps... He also had a very dangerous situation midway through his ownership where the power steering gearbox did something crazy and he couldn't steer the damn thing.. We'd get into hilarious discussions about it because my 82' F150 had the same mileage but never broke,, everything under the hood was original except the exhaust manifold and master cylinder, and battery.. lol
Idk how a dog is considered a negative comment lol, Dogs is man’s best friend and my dog is very well behaved for the most part.. her fuel consumption sucks but other than that THIS DOG’LL HUNT
