Welcome to the CallMeColt® RU-vid Channel, where it all started!
I started this channel because I wanted to upload a few videos to share on a forum. As time went on, the video started getting more & more views. I added to them to share other things with friends & family.
After a bit more time, I started documenting more projects I was doing as well as some other products reviews & things that seemed to not be getting attention on the internet that I was interested in.
The viewership, feedback, & followers kept on slowly growing so I figured I would put some more effort & time into it.
It has now grown into a small business, CallMeColt® LLC. I run it via a small eBay store as well as local sales & service. CallMeColt® is now also a registered trademark & is held by me, Colt.
As an Associate I earn from qualifying purchases on some of the links that I share on this channel.
I have what I think may be a non functional battery charge meter on my MEP803A. The needle never moves. I've tried disconnecting the battery while the generator is running, and it keeps running, so I suspect alternator is working, but the meter is not. On ever video I've watched, the meter swings to the green after the engine starts and then settles back down. Mine never moves. Just got it with 2 hrs on the clock.
A lot of times, units that sit unused have electrical issues. Could be a few things. Download the Technical Manuals and work through the troubleshooting steps and wire diagrams. If you need parts, check my e-bay store or reach out via the contact form on my website. www.callmecolt.com
@@CallMeColtLLC I wouldn't mind troubleshooting if I got the thing dirt cheap, but I paid a premium for a "just reset" unit and expected it to be fully functional. The wiring is complicated and not labeled with numbers so it's untraceable without cutting many tie wraps and separating the wires. Gonna mess up the wiring harness if I do that.
@@basspig all the wires in military equipment are numbered as well as connectors. Buying a military Reset unit means nothing. I've had the most issues with units that had no use/reset and some of the best has 1,000's of hours.
@@CallMeColtLLC I don't see any numbers on the wires. There's no labels wrapped around them. I measured across the meter terminals and after startup, it went to 5mA and settled down to about 2mA. But the needle barely budged.
The Barrister clamps the voltage at a level that is below the peak inverse breakdown voltage of the diode bridge in the regulator which should theoretically prevent diode Bridge failures in the regulator which of course would lead to other catastrophic issues with the stator coil.
Is the auxiliary fuel system (external tank) connected to the main tank? Does it only refill the main tank or is it a completely separate system with a separate (auxiliary) pump?
@@CallMeColtLLC I see. Thank you. Looking at the diagram (FUEL SYSTEM DIAGRAM), it turns out that MEP cannot operate only on an external tank. I can only refill the main tank from the external one, manually turning on the additional pump every 7-10 hours. Do I understand correctly?
Does more than that. I don't really cover those aspects in my videos because many others do & the websites/listings for them cover all the exact technical specifications.
Hello, what does "wet stacked" mean? Thank you for the videos! I was given one of these 5 years ago with 3 hours on it. Put new fuel and fuel lines, wasn't able to get any running even with 24 volts on slave, im thinking i just didn't get proper priming now🤔. Going to pull it from storage and reference this video for priming, i was thinking the fuel pump was bad. Thank you
Wet stacking is something that can happen to diesel generators, or any diesel engine, that isn't run up to it's full temperature. I plan to make a video dedicated to this & military generators down the road, but life has me very busy & it takes time to record & edit a video. :p
in my case i can blow air through the 2nd injector, but the other 3 i cannot. was searching for a way to disassemble them to clean them but im all out of ideas. i tried to loosen it but to no avail
I'm having trouble with my 803a. Starting it. Will turn over with the dead crank. But not the switch. All pumps come on and solenoid works. Not sure what's going on. Any info would be great
It is smaller than a 3.5mm for sure, but I don't know for sure. It was a while ago since I made this video & since moved on to a different headset so I don't have it anymore to confirm the size.
Hope you do a part 3 or even a follow up to let us know what you found I have one of these doing the same thing think mine has one bad cylinder Saw another video and if was broken piston and rings 👍
You shouldn't have to pull the drivelines. If you pull the axle shafts then nothing is connecting the wheels to the drivetrain, so there's no way those driveline are going to spin.
Front axles can't be taken out and will spin the driveline. That is why only the front drive shaft is removed and the rear is left in place after the rear axles are pulled.
Power factor, in the simplest terms is the relationship of the phase of the voltage to the phase of the current as it passes through the load. A resistive load will have a power factor of one. In this case the voltage and the current will be in Phase with each other.
If I talked to every person that asked me to about their generator, I would not have free time in the day! Most questions can be answered in videos I have made already. They should help you on how to repair your generator.
I'm assuming you me reliable? Once they're repaired correctly, they are very reliable. Like any old mechanical machine, it may have a quirk here or there, but doing all the proper repairs, checks, and shake downs up fronts prevents this.
@@lukewinkler3284 they are both essentially the same machine with the same reliability except that the MEP 803A has a larger engine and generator head to produce more power. Just make sure you get an appropriate sized one for your needs.
Excellent video! I like the idea of using the 5 kw heaters as a load. Great information, but I would be careful using two of the 30 amp whips connected directly to the lugs, you could easily overload that 30 amp line with 10 awg wire and cause issues on the 803A, ideally you would want to feed a small breaker box and put a 25 or 30 amp breaker on each. Great for shakedown testing with the heaters, but be careful feeding existing 30 amp L14-30 input connection circuits for generators.
Those leads are only used when I do tests on generators like this. Anything more permanent gets much more attention to detail and quality installation. When I get a true load bank, I will have a much better setup.
@@CallMeColtLLC Colt, I meant this more for the people following this. For temporary load testing it is perfect, but some people might think oh yeah I can do that without knowing the potential hazards. You are doing a great job with your Videos, a lot of great information!
I don't have a MEP 831A anymore to compare. They're really not comparable. MEP 831A is good for electronics and pure resistive loads with no surge because it's an inverter. MEP 802A is more of a traditional generator.
@@CallMeColtLLC This was around 14:06 in the video, but you were using the kill a watt meter as a more accurate reference to adjust the voltmeter to match the plug in kill a watt meter, not to adjust the generator output voltage. Excellent video by the way!
@@dynamicenergysolutions180 ah okay, that's why I didn't recall. I was talking about the gauge adjustment itself, not adjusting the actual voltage output. 👍
Been running these for awhile and learned something new! Didn’t realize the filler cap had an open and closed. What color and brand paints do you use for these? Hopefully a low cost source..
