Thanks for this video. Just my story so it may help some else. I had damaged my 54 MZ Magnum blades yesterday so went to put new blades on. I was using a breaker bar with a 2-foot hollow pipe on the end and couldn't budge the damn bolt even after spraying it, I was literally moving the mower off the car ramps. Then snaped a Pittsburgh/harbor freight 15/16 wrench trying to remove the bolt. Also tried my Kobalt battery powered impact gun and my 20+ year old husky(only 260 ft lbs. torque) impact gun to no avail. I am normally not a big fan of harbor freight tools, but I ran out this morning and bought a harbor freight earthquake air impact gun (1500 ft lbs. torque model) and the bolt came off in less than a second. I only had my 6-gal porter cable compressor 150 psi and it worked great.
Hey I'm wondering if you have any idea was going on whit my golf cart ezgo 88 start go but slows down when accelerating?? Tune up last year I just put a new carburetor on nothing changed
Naand Koos ek het klaar n ietsie gese maar dit moet baie duidelik gemaak word dat daar n baie groot verskil is tussen die kaliber en daar saam die projektiel soos verskil van die wapen ek skryf in my taal want ek kan nie mooi in engels spel nie ek will nie op n program wees nie maar weet redelik van die goed ook ek weet nie so mooi van e mail nie te ou skool
On mowers its a stator though is the correct word for the part. you can test the ignition solenoid with it disconnect from the mower frame and a good battery or battery jumper you can test those out and test out all the ignition relay boxes to If the solenoid is shot then its not worth worrying about messing it up or something catching fire long as the tank is sealed right nothing will spark up I had a whole tank of gas and a fire on its cap last year from a welding accident its a good thing i had buckets of water laying around and mud the wet mud i smeared on the melted plastic put the fire out and the tank didn't blow up
we've had this about a month now and there are no complaints. ru-vid.comUgkx1VWTrayKBdCKAjzAcZ_Eg4dhHTae3LkN also recommend some of the decals are a little crooked; i guess the decal guy was having an off day. it came on a crate and took about 30 minutes to assemble, then about another 30 to install the bagger. it works great and i cannot foresee any big problems coming up. it is a sturdy, usa built product. update: the belt-drive clutch is still grabby, but i guess that is the nature of the device. as the literature advises be very careful on slopes or uneven surfaces-it can be very tippy.
Awesome Thank you so much Brother , I thank God for people like you. You make things sound logic and people learning are able to follow you. Fantastic Job!!
SO UNDERRATED The only "wrong" thing i noticed is a bit of an inaccuracy because Pirahna Plants in Super Mario World jump up and slowly float down into the pipe, unlike in any other Mario game, so the sprite used here had to be the SMB3 one, but it has to be like that.
Nice video, a few tips for loosening super tight bolts. Use a lubricant as you show in the video, tap (don't hit it too hard) the bolt with a ball peen hammer, use an extension on your breaker bar like a pipe, finally try to tighten the bolt a bit, this can break it free. Then of course use anti-seize when you put the bolts back in. I've spent a lot of years with rusty old bolts as a pipefitter :)
I think I'm the 3rd owner of what is "my" truck right now haha. Anyway, probably one of the first 2 owners lost the key fob and never told me. Until I saw the AU0 on my RPO codes. I do have keyless and I didn't knew until I saw this video. And lucky me, my dad happen to have a friend that owns an original Tech2 scanner. Definitely I'll try this
I had a craftsman LT2000 with the 18hp BS intek. I replaced the seat switch, brake switch and blade engage switc/pto, releasing the brake or enabling the pto would kill the engine, I had to bypass them by doing a direct link from the ignition to the magneto.
S1R9A9M9 ran his mower engine on just water in carb, with amps through plug the same time. ( water vapor pressure + small Hydrogen ) A Triple coils assembly was used with plated #14 gray and red copper wire from riding mower chassis. Circuit has 100% on 7turns Magnetic field as 90 degrees over 5 turns of #12 gauge wire for firm frame for the upper 7 turns. see wire with side tap joint #1 to ground, 6-10amps through plug, accessory spark gap, diodes, Timing shifted to -34degrees late timing by the field, the 6-10amps fire only when plug fires through 13 turns. Joint #2 as Hi V + amps together to plug. Water in carburetor changes to water vapor pressure at low end of piston stroke, along with minute amount of hydrogen gas that also fires. Vacuum pulls only level of water engine needs. Electrical Circuit source of resistance to limit current not known. Battery start, battery removed., Circuit runs on onboard dual alternators - Probably AC for field + DC for spark plug amps, (or Bridge rectifier to get 15 A) . High voltage ignition is negative with positive ground. EGR was not applied on Briggs 18HP as was done with earlier car conversions that used sets of obsolete relays. S1R coils was to replace the unusual relays. He called it electromagnet + booster coils.Original spark plug of 4kohm changed to 125ohm QC12YC About 1300 v required to push current through plug. Induction cross voltage leakage from Ignition., or flyback high volts effect from 2MH coil included. Engine ran on water at idle speed and sounds somewhat like a water pump! Parts contained in plastic tub on side of engine with wires coming down from upper engine cowl and all wires wrapped in blk elec tape - it's not just 1 plug wire!. Alternator wires always come out on left side Briggs starter motor. Extension cord , if jumped at the plug end, can be the extra long RETIURN WIRE from bottom of spark plug he said was required and back to tub alt wire. See S1R9A9M9 Videos #1 + #2. at slow speed. Web site shut down.
I used a Skag mower blade tool that I purchased years ago, and kept after I sold my Turf Tiger. It's the best $50 I ever spent. Of course, I bought mine back in 2003, so they're probably $100 now. It holds the blade solidly against the deck when removing the center bolt. It's a timesaver and will save your cussing too.
wish I would have seen this 7 years ago or so. Its not to hard under that variable speed pulley is a cover with the bearings under it take the 3 bolts off of cover and pull cover off then your variable pulley will move enough to push the new 5/8 wide belt onto bottom pulley. I also found that taking the metal body part off that the seat bolts to makes the job alot easier, 8 bolts and its off. sorry so late but maybe this would help someone else someday.
You do a pretty good job of describing what each component does and how it's controlled, but your video is about how to wire Briggs and Stratton engines and I'm not really sure if you actually did that. I got lost trying to keep up with all the jumping around you do. Sorry didnt really help but nice attempt
I have one with this same engine and the wire going from the switch to the coil isn't working not getting fire. Someone put a toggle on it and had it working but now when I hook it up ( I don't know how they had it exactly ) it blows coils. I have ruined 3 coils so far and don't want to kill anymore. How do I run it so I don't blow anymore coils?
hi I have a Troy Bilt 21" self propelled mower 2 in1 Briggs & Stratton 650 series 190cc/650 The interlock switch one prong came off w/o me knowing about. Now I have bought a new and want to know which wire goes where ( This interlock is on the R side of the motor if you are facing the front of the mower) Thanks for your help.
