Hi! Is neccessary the specific timing tools for the s50b30 timing process? I’m looking for the tools and all of kits seems to fit both s54 and s50 and they are a bit suspicious …
@@anidiotinaracingcar4874 yes. The driveshafts from the diff to the rear wheels were disconnected. Everything from the engine to the diff was turning. I was in 3rd gear.
I don't remember having to raise the vehicle. If I did, it was only so I could remove the cover under the engine. I always do this just incase I drop something.
Very helpful video. Only thing I found is that disconnecting injectors wiring on one side make removing the air body much easier as all of the wires can be pushed aside.
Hi, I have attempted to align the exhaust camshaft sprocket several times according to your instructions from 3:17 onwards. The crankshaft is locked at OT and the camshafts are locked at TDC. When I attempt to slip the chain on the exhaust sprocket, the oval section of the sprocket does not align exactly as yours is shown in the video (i.e. at 1/4 position relative to the EXH cam trigger tooth). I would say my oval section sits at approximately 3/8 of the way from the bottom of the tooth. If I slip the chain on the sprocket 1 tooth forward, the oval is over 1/2 of the way from the tooth and if I slip the sprocket one tooth backward (by rotating the cam sprocket forward until it reaches that point) the start of the oval section ends up under the bottom of the trigger tooth. With the exhaust camshaft set in this middle "3/8" position relative to the tooth, if I attempt to install other bolts for the VANOS hub, they are not fully accessible. I am not sure what I am doing wrong and have attempted doing this several times. Can you suggest any other steps or checks so that I can be successful in setting up the VANOS? Thank you for the helpful and insightful video!
You may have to rotate the plate on to the next slot. It can take a lot of faffing to get the exhaust slot correctly aligned. You also need to have removed the chain tensioner before you can move the chain on the sprocket.
One more question, what is the air pressure check for? Is it to allow cams to move if incase you got the timing wrong ? Can't you just start all over and loosen the screws and unmesh vanos without having to use air?
10:28, why do you turn the plate slightly to the left before you engate the teeth? I thought they should be fully turned to the right and then you mesh the tooth in, so thats where the VANOS unit begins to push the gears in and the cams retard themselves? It appears your not starting from full retard if your turning the plate to the left by 1 tooth before you mesh the gear in? This is what confuses me. I assume the reason to have the plates turned fully to the right is to set them in the full advance position, and then as the gears mesh in and push in, they retard the cams by moving the plates anti clockwise?
Hi Boris , I had the same questions and also posted on Tim’s RU-vid channel- Juhles . You can see my responses there. I took videos and pics as well . What is important as stated in this video is that the Exhaust Vanos gear must stick out like in the Video when inserted all the way into the hub. This will ensure that when your Vanos unit is fully seated , the bolts at the back as still accessible. If you are not sure what I mean, please feel free to comment on Tim’s channel where I posted more details. Note this is only my observations and by no means profess it’s correct.
What I don't understand is why does a certian tooth on the VANOS unit has to engate in the spline? they are all identical aren't they? I thought so long as cams are a relative angle to each other which is set by the locking tool, you can just slide the VANOS in and it just retards or advances using oil pressure to push the plungers in or out? Is the goal to have the gears mesh into the splines when at full advance position ? and then the Vanos can retard by pushing the gears in?
Is the air procedure required? I wonder why Beisan systems guide do not have the air supply in their guide? Can the unit be removed as a whole without adding air? At what point is it safe to remove the airline? it simply is seen in one part of the video and then missing after the chain gaurd is removed Since air is needed for removing, what about air for re-installing and when ?
Great video, when inserting the splines - is there a sweet spot ( I found that at a certain point one gets maximum travel of the hub from left to right. I have a video that I can share . Your guidance will be really appreciated.
Fuck me, those housings are known to leak...(why the whole assembly sells so cheap!!!) i cant beleive anyone could be stupid enough not to replace the whole assembly whislt you allready had everything apart! on a 15 odd year old car .. what the fuck!!!
The point is that the whole thing is not apart. I saved about three hours labour, and loads of hassle. Use the video as a guide, along with other people's videos, and decide which way to do the job. Maybe I was just lucky, but it worked for me.
Does Tribute still make the 275 or 250 SWB kits? Can't see it on the Tribute website. I saw Classic Coachworks still has the 250 coupe and convertible kits on their site though.
Hi, Did you test the diodes before dismantling the plug? I understand that failed diodes can send a reverse pulse to the DME as you mention in this video, which can cause issues including (I believe) issues with the fuel pump. I've been having an issue with me S50B32 where under certain conditions, the fuel pump is losing 12v power supply and the car cuts out. I've just disconnected the plugs to both inlet and outlet vanos solenoid units and attempted to test the diodes (forward biased) in the connectors plugs by using a multimeter's diode testing mode - negative lead to the cathode (which is connected to the two outside pins or black & brown wires) and positive lead to the anode (centre pin, green & red wires). I got a reading (voltage drop I believe) of 0.003 over all 4 diodes. I then switched to reverse bias, so negative to anode and positive to cathode and got the same readout of 0.003 across all 4 diodes. This happened with both plugs across all 4 diodes, so I presume these readings means all 4 diodes are shorting and therefore need replacing? Either that or I'm doing something wrong/my multimeter isn't functioning correctly. The multimeter does read 1 when the positive and negative are disconnected and it reads 0.000 when I touch them together which implies the multimeter is working as expected. I'm by no means an expert when it comes to electrics, so apologies if any of that wasn't clear or used incorrect terminology.
I am mostly through this and your Video is a life saver - however i may have made a mistake. I didnt have enough torque on the intake hub and the rotated the engine - the screws did as you said, went to the far end of the "slots" and made the intake cam timing go out. Would that have been enough timing to cause the valve to hit the piston during a "hand rotation" of the engine? apricate your help!
Sorry for the delay in reply, but the answer is "I don't know". I do remember having to turn the engine with the chain disconnected, and it wasn't easy. Crank 10 deg, inlet cam 20 deg, exhaust cam 20 deg, engine 10 deg...
Fascinating, I've finally got software to test my maf readings in grams per second so maybe I'll do some measurements. The new intake I'm making doesn't have a maf screen at all and the stock airbox I have now has a very tight mesh screen
Thanks for the great video, really easy to follow. I have just done this to the same engine and followed your instructions to the letter, and the car feels much better. But I am getting the following cam readings: When car is off intake is at 60 (Nominal 55), exhaust is at 0 (Nominal 0), and at idle intake is at 0 (Nominal 0) and exhaust is at 4 (Nominal 0). Do you think this is down to bad timing or could it be something else?
I don't know what you mean by "car is off". There is the possiblity that the cam springs could be too loose or too tight. There's not much that you can do about that other than fit them properly, or completely remove them. If you remove them the chatter will be intolerable, but the cam will advance / retard very quickly.
Why is my exhaust camshaft advanced when i did not open the vanos? I only remove the solenoid vanos to change the o-rings on the exhaust camshaft area..but once i diagnosed it shows vanos camshaft advanced..is this okay? Will it drop in performance?
First of all thanks for the great video, do you have any more info on that solenoid positioning tool? It looks homemade, did you make in yourself or get it somewhere?
Thats smooth acceleration I bought e36 m3 evo and I have very little hesitation between 3-4.5 sometimes what is could be ? Appreciate if you could help 👍🏼
@@q8hektor It could be. A broken temp sensor defaults to -48deg C (I know this because I forgot to reconnect mine and this was the reading). If the ECU were to use that value, it would assume the air was VERY dense and would add more fuel to compensate.
I suppose then I need to repeat this protocol on every single shim out there right ? why do we start by no.4 in specific ? excuse my ignorance... just overhauled my vanos unit & i thought it might be a good chance to check valve clearance & whatever else I can tackle on my way to re-assemble
