That is the right bottom spacer you need the little cut out notch so it’ll fit on the bottom Because if you try to use the one that completely round it won’t fit right possibly crooked
They won’t break if you know how to use them That’s why i’m using a ratchet instead of an impact now, if I was starting to turn it and it wouldn’t move, and I will leave the tool on there with the pressure and smack it with a hammer. It’ll pop right off.
As a master tech the last 23 years this is the most satisfying thing when the extraction tool works properly and the broken stud/bolt glides right out!! Good job 👍
If its really stuck in there, I like to apply heat and add a little candle wax to the threads, usually walks out easy. Good job on drilling the hole straight and center, that's the hardest part of extraction. Auto tech of 15 years, we do alot of broken exhaust manifold bolts/studs
I prefer to use the right tool here to avoid lateral forces on the bolt extractor, it is one of the reasons you break the bolt in the extraction process.
@cmdsandiego without context on that, and with a condescending attitude. I'm assuming you're talking about the adjustable wrench he used to turn the extractor? Not all applications will allow a tap handle in there. But also, you said the bolt will be destroyed... it's already destroyed if you are at this point of extraction. If you were trying to say "use the right tool for normal removal of the bolt and this won't happen"... then you haven't had enough time wrenching. Shit happens and things break. He did a great job of removing a broken bolt that was too far gone
More than likely you bought a rebuilt caliper not saying a new one wouldn't have a leak but it's not very typical usually rebuilt ones or reman what will be the leaker
Hey fellas, you need to use a bit holder! You’re using a 1/4” nut driver to hold your screw bit tip and you ain’t gonna have nothing but problems with that. Also should use some sort of structural lag if you wanna run side by side tests. They don’t break like that.
@@terrellscaife2411 I know bubby I use tools TOO MUCH. So in that 1/4” collet on your dewalt that was a 1/4” nut driver holding your bit tip. That’s designed to drive screws/bolts with a 1/4” hex head. Not designed to hold a 1/4” insert bit for running screws in. I’ll watch the next one
Yeah, it was those five dollar screws box of screws you get from Harbor freight and those were the biggest ones in the box But hey, you learn something new every day
Bud, you couldn’t be any more wrong. This is just some weird opinion you pulled outta your ass for no reason at all. You clearly haven’t had much experience with power tools. Why do you think nobody uses air anymore? Just because?
@@shadygunshow portability, marketing, and availability. You can't sell new batteries regularly if they don't take them. Air tools last generations. The good ones are at the antique shops or on craigslist/marketplace still running 50-100 years later
Yeah, he is right for the extreme stuff. The cordless tool won’t hold up a perfect example is western truck and tractor. RU-vid channel if you go and watch his older videos, he was all Milwaukee but he got sick and tired of dealing with battery issues and other issues with the cordless tools so now he’s using all air tools in his videos
The pick n pull gives you another motor or trans if the one you had gotten the first time was bad. Stop the cap 🧢 also you can check most engine by seeing if they spin freely and checking compression
You said another engine of transmission that was the whole purpose of my video. is doing it all over again. and also, when are you going to do the compression test?
Yeah bro, I wish I could. This is a old video probably from 2018. Got rid of the vehicle last summer. I was using the bearing puller because I did not have The actual harmonic balancer puller tool at the time But since then I’ve stepped up my game and I have three different styles or types of harmonic balancer puller tool
Had a 1984 Dodge Daytona with 160k miles that had a manual transmission drop every gear but 3rd. Replaced it with a junkyard trans. Ran for another 60k before i decided to get rid of the car. Still ran fine but 20 years of California sun had done a number on the paint and interior. Not bad for a car that I got brand new for 9500 dollars.
If you're in a scrap yard pulling parts your should know what to look for in regards of the condition of the components. If not you should allow someone else . If you know the people that run this scrap yard do you think they want you to encourage people not to make said purchases? Granted they scrap the unused but still $500+ compared to maybe $30 in weight
Yeah, what you said makes really, no sense there are stuff that’s good to get from the salvage Yard sometimes, if I’m trying to diagnose an electrical problem, I will go to the Salvage Yard Off get a bunch of different sensors or relays throttle bodies Side mirrors sometimes, if the brakes are good, I snatch off a caliber 15 bucks upper intake manifold, system valve covers
I was just going to say that's why you get a car or truck that has been crashed in the back if you're going to use the engine or transmission out of it I'm a frequent flyer to pull apart in Atlanta but I only get certain things from a salvage yard for my 328i
I remember the time Gramp's car was totaled after being rear-ended while pulling into the transmission shop. Seems the slipping transmission had him going too slow pulling into the driveway. 😅
Except... we have no idea why the engine and transmission were removed. For all we know they went to rebuilders who aren't overly concerned with condition.
Bro, I know this Salvage Yard Off the owner seen him driving in but he didn’t ask any questions I seriously doubt they went through the trouble to contact a rebuilder for the engine and transmission versus selling them out, right i’ve known multiple people that bought engines and transmissions from salvage Yard and they turned out not to be any good recently, I had a potential customer, but I wasn’t able to get to him so he went somewhere else. He ordered a transmission off-line, and that transmission turned out to be no good.
@terrellscaife2411 Again, it's all speculation, we have NO specifics as to why the power train was pulled or where it went. And since it's no sweat off either of our brows I'll bow out now. Good luck
You’re absolutely right neither one of us actually know because we wasn’t there when I pulled it but it’s a high probability that it was sold to somebody that was looking for that like I said previously, I know people that bought bad engines and transmissions from the Salvage Yard Off
Getting parts like an engine, transmission, transfer case, or differential is always a crapshoot. You never know for sure if it is going to be a good part or not. But then again, you have the same thing from a lot of auto parts stores too.
@@terrellscaife2411 True. I threw it in there as an example of the things with moving parts that can go wrong. I have had issues with them before. Anymore, junkyard parts, I pray for the best, but expect to have to rebuild it.
The key is to take the engine or transmission from a car that took a hard crash to the rear or side of the car. That increases the chance that the car was driving along fine when the accident happened. No, it doesn’t guarantee a good engine/transmission but it increases the chances of getting a good one. I did that and got an excellent working one.
Yes. Preferably a new vehicle, and one with a good reputation. You're chances of finding a good engine / trans from a 2012 Toyota with rear end damage, wherein the engine looks great, trans, too, no leaks, nice and dry, and the owner seemed to take care of the car, is very high.
