Yeah the chinese manufacturer RATO doesn't wash the crankcase during manufacturing like briggs and Honda does so there is lots of crap in them but none the less these are great little engines.
@@nixfix2981 I also Had the same experience but on a Hwasdan engine. The oil was more silver than Brown, but im Not worried it seems like its only Casting Material so mostly Aluminum i guess it won't hurt the engine in the Long Run. Im already 5hours in and on the 3rd oil Change its starting to become much less but it's still coming Out slightly silver.
@@AlfredClifford-k8k my car was litterally on the way to the scrap yard. I broke it off with a hammer. You can also use a very small dremel or cut off wheel
Dude you deserve a beer. Replaced axles today, along with many other pieces, EXCEPT these sensors. Abs started acting up and I’m thinking now I can clean/replace these and be good to go.
@@nixfix2981 Update on my end. It was the ABS sensors being over tightened that caused mine to actually bend slightly and not sit exactly flush. My "hand tight" was much more than the OEM 8.0Nm. So everyone... follow the torq specs lol.
Great video. I’m ready to adhere composite panels to cement board with liquid waterproofing on it wondering best adhesive and sealant Please reply with any updates. Also my head wall measures 3/8”+ strong at top revealing 291/4” on the upper 2/3 of panel tapering to 283/4” at top of shower pan. large square at bottom inside corner reveals the rocking 3/8”so thinking of trimming the amt off the bottom edge first which should make outside edge plumb up from edge of shower pan. Figure shower doors end piece to be placed at outside edge of pan and would barely cover the outside edge cut where transitioning to drywall. Be interested on any suggestions ya have with glue and head wall. Please contact asap 🤙🏻
performanceproadhesives.com/product-category/adhesive/ This was the adhesive that I used and I loved it. No issues at all. As far as sealant I just used white 100% silicone. I think thank the least amount of cutting is best. Sounds like your on the right track.
@@nixfix2981 thx now I’m needing do a skim coat of FeatherSet mortar over waterproofing. No biggie just want this job done. Bonding SPC panels to the motors shan’t have any issues using a few different adhesives available.would get this stuff but want start like yesterday
Cools mine is in an ok. just stuck a new carb on 4trax. 29 bucks off Amazon. Cranked right up but I had no clue what the hell that screw was for or what adjustment to set it at.. Thanks..
@@user-wj1xe4nr8m Is just a carb for 1993 to 2000 Honda, four trax 300. Gas is just gravity flow. The company was ATracy no part. Nunmber..has 763 ratings at this time.... but alot like this on amazon.. Im sure its made in china... but it fit bolted right up. Was 37 dollars. Now i will clean mine an have a spare i guess.
@@nixfix2981 yeah it did only the passenger side, I cleaned well again and it fixed the noise.. maybe my wheel bearing need to be replaced or something.
@@heberlara6079 as the wheel bearing goes out it will mess with that sensor. Other vehicles are more sensitive than others. My tundra was very sensitive to metal/rust shavings. Almost wrecked multiple times before I had mine changed
I got the module out off the column. Banging on it woudln't make it retract. As soon as I touched the lock pin, it retracted like it was under a load, so I think it had binded up in the lock position. I am going to put it back in , start the car and pull the 10 amp fuse next to the battery now. To get off the two rounded security bolts holding on the lock module, slot them using a Dremel and a cut off wheel so you can use a flat head screwdriver. They were still too tight for me, so I hit the right hand side of the slot with a hammer and a long brass punch and they immediately came loose. I then used a stubby flathead screwdriver. Replace them with real M8 hex bolts. I have not put it back in yet to see if the car starts. Halfway through all this.
@@nixfix2981 This turned out to be the problem, was that motor had gone bad on the lock module. I did not have to open up the lock module and fix the motor. I left it retracted and re-installed it with some new M8 bolts. Was real sure to plug every single plug back in including the airbags before connecting the battery, and when I connected the battery, the car started right up, no issues, as if nothing had gone wrong. No computer lights on the dash came on because I plugged in the air bag ahead of time. While the car was running I then went and pulled out the 10 amp Steering Lock Module Fuse thats on the hidden fuse panel behind your battery, and turned off the car. The car has ran fine now and I have started it a few times over the course of the day and so far, looks good.
Great! The cockpit lights when I press the button now! There is a progress when all 3 are pressed at the same time. Just cannot crank when I press the button again unfortunately...any ideas? The remote control locks and unlocks with ease but the car cannot start the engine even when the remote is touching the engine start button of the car.
@@nixfix2981 Hi. I am stuck :( The lights and the dashboard lights up but cannot turn the engine on. No crank of the engine after pressing the start/stop buton...
same exact problem here with my 09 g37 sedan i actually did this “bypass” a year ago back when there was no videos on it and i was just trying desperately to figure it out and get the car running again but it didnt work for me and i stayed with the same symptoms i originally had before tearing my actutor apart. i took my car to a shop here in phoenix arizona named infiniti motorsports and god what a waist of f*cking time and money that was, 400$ later still in the same shoe but i was basically charged 400 to pull my car out the shop and it ran for a day i noticed a water leak and i parked it and replaced the leaking coolant hose when i go to turn the car on to check if my coolant hose replacement did the job, my car wouldnt start again. went back to the shop got the run around and im contemplating taking it back and having the car held hostage again and be uncomfortable with the shops work or continue to sit on the car till i find a solution, so far ive replaced the ipdm, bypassed the ESCL , took apart the bcm inspected the motherboard and the sunroof drains everything is spic and span but im still getting the same issue, car goes into acc and on and will shut off on its own aswell but it will not cycle the engine.
your diaphragms are shot (which is why that middle switch trips). The middle magnetic slide/piston is supported by the diaphragms only, so when they go, the switch trips. Replace the diaphragms on both sides, and it'll run right again (at least for a while)
@@nixfix2981 if it's working, don't replace just yet, but they will eventually wear out; start shopping to try to get a good deal on a replacement diaphram set so you're not out $400+ for a new pump when they do finally go out!
@@nixfix2981 Glad it worked out for you. These pumps only stay happy when the diaphragms/valves on both sides are working 100% - learned myself the hard way!
Counter clockwise increases the fuel. Clockwise leans out the fuel. Usually what I do is back it out to 2.5 turns then set my idle. Turn the screw clock until the rpm’s start to climb, the. Back off 1/4-1/2 turn. Seems to work well for me but none of my stuff has working choke cables. Salt water sucks.
Happened to me today. Was shooting some new .223 brass Armscor. Made a mess of gunpowder inside the chamber and on the bolt and caused it to malfunction for the first time ever. Happened on my first mag which was a bummer.
So if I hear you right you completely install the hose, fill the reservoir, start the truck, got it the engine temp up with the heater set on Max and then cooled it down?
Yea but mark the coolant level from hot to cold. If the level goes up when engine temperature goes from hot to cold then you have an air bubble trapped in the system somewhere. There are multiple methods for removing air bubbles but it is important that no air is left in the system because it can overheat.
@NixFix I had to change the main hose too, broke at hard fitting at y connector. I filled it to the cool cold fill line. Running now with burp funnel. Engine temp at normal range but still no hot air. I barely see bubbles in over tube, level never changed
Hey. bad with Water in the Diff. I hope it is not Hurt. And you can dry it out and get a new seal on the axle. I hope to hear a nice Video one day of Really low running.. Best Regards J. Write me when you have posted the Video. Thanks a lot.
Thanks for the comment! I will try to make a video of it next time I run it. She’s out of commission right now, the rear axle seals went out and I got water all up in the rear diff. I hope to do a video on that project soon.
I am almost positive that it is PN: KH570 mastercraft part number and Oriellys carries it too. www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/motorcraft/motorcraft-heater-hose-assembly/mot0/kh570/v/a/118906/automotive-truck-2012-ford-f-150?q=Heater+core+hose&pos=0
Also a quick cheap fix is to purchase Dorman connector 800-418 and save a ton of hassle and money. I fixed this on my truck by cutting the hose at the old connector and purchasing that new connector for $14 and a 3/4 x 3/4 metal hose clamp. Walla! 5 minutes of work!
I loved this bike. So easy to work on just didn’t want to spend the time and money to add breaks to it. The 2x4 models are a pain. If I have an opportunity to get a 4x4 version like this one, it will be hard to pass up
I have the same problem I got everything no but the part of the hose that’s closer to the firewall won’t clip back in, have any ideas of how to get it to clip in
It has o-ring on the inside of the fitting make sure the o-ring didn’t come out of its grove. Other than that, make sure you push it on straight, mine wasn’t terribly hard to put on.
