Hey all. This channel is mostly about multirotors, and mostly about custom stuff I've made. Lots of custom stuff. Very few reviews of anything that you can actually buy.
Basically just a WM9290 CPAP that gets split 4 ways and flows air over the steppers. It works well for what it is, but it's very loud and it's not as good as water cooling.
@@tiaanv I actually haven't been using it! But in theory the quality should be better because the Galileo 2 housing has an improved ring gear design over the orbiter 2.
Hi this is awesome! I just built my 2x with a btt m5p cb2. Now I’m Having trouble with the config. What did you use as a base config or could you share yours by any chance?
@@papanook4989 I don't have the config anymore as I stripped this build down for parts. I just started off with the default klipper config for my board though (BTT SKR3) and modified it as needed.
My belts are more parallel than many VZ bot builds. For example smooth 20T GT2 idlers have a slightly different diameter to stacked flanged bearings, but I see people use either one interchangeably on VZbot builds.
There are some aspects of the VZ bot which I think are done better than my build, then there are other aspects where I believe my build is much better. Overall I am very happy with what I ended up with.
@@46449771 well yeah anyone could spend thousands of dollar on print and make super good but what’s the point when in reality yours just cost more than a vzbot yet doesn’t perform near as well or any better. Just figured I’d suggest saving you some time and money but if your happy send it
A mains voltage heater would solve your issue peroid right on the bottom of your 6mm aluminum those cartidges may be ok if you connected them and had a heat sink with fans blowing across just to heat keep the eclosure heat up no matter what you do youll have hotspots with those touching the bed
That is actually a nice rig. I did not get the name of your part cooler. I am trying out something completely different, but if that fails, this is probably a good option. What is the name of that thing? Also, I just did the same balance act with my belts and the tool head, just because of the same imbalance as you pointed to. You do avoid a constant imbalance, that only goes away, if tension is even in both the belts, but core-xy is made to tackle that exact tension balance, as that very balance tend to always be an issue. But I looking at it, that is quite a distance between the belts you got there. They sit fairly high as well. The extruder ends up fairly high as well, resulting quite a travel from the extruder to the hotend. That can be cut quite dramatically. I would think you would benefit far more from fixing that, than the 4mm (?) aluminum slate at the end of the x-rail. I am not really into this speed race myself, and tries more to build a Volvo than a Ferrari, as I target reliability for production. Personally, I find the idlers, both the smooth and the those with teeth, to be under par across the board. As in the across the entire industry. If you use 3mm bore on yours, you will need an extra strong base for it. That is typically because the diameter of the axle is too small. Using m5 helps quite a bit. I am actually trying out some printed ones with far greater diameter, as that allows for a totally different and open ended design. I also fasten them using m14 printed and embeded. screws. If I get it to work, I also got the option to use IGUS bearings for the idlers. I have no idea how well this is going to work, but I guess I am not the only one struggling with that belt path? If you are not using a real axle for your idlers, then you should. You can lock the axel in place, with say a nylon screw. I saw someone used a carbon fiber rod as axel, which is quite interesting. Not optimal, but certainly far better than any screw, and way lighter. Hope that was of any interest. Thanks for sharing your build.
Stop cooling the part, slow it down by about 50%, and put in aluminum tape to prevent the hot end fan from leaking onto your part. the issue you have is not an issue of getting it hot enough, it's an issue of plastic shrinkage by to fast cooling. ABS plastic wants to shrink by about 5%, you can have that happen slowly and have a good print, or you can try to do it fast and have it fall apart. On a stock Ender 3 with only a bi-metal heat break I can print ABS at 245º hot end and 85º Bed at 50mm/s. If anything, use my mantra, Slow is fast and Fast is accurate. Make it so you have successful prints, then look at what you can do to increase your speed. The same printer does PLA and PETG at 200mm/s. but for me, having the ABS/ASA parts come out functional is more important then if it took 1 or 4 hours. Time and Materials for a printer update/upgrade. I can spend 3 KG of ABS fighting for faster speed, or I can accept that my current printer is slow, and that Engineering Materials need slower speeds then consumer materials.
You know why it sounds stupid because it is stupid. I know a person that has got stuck on and he didn't know it because he was playing music really loud and everybody was laughing at him just. Phhhh phhhhh phhhh phhhhh 😂😂😂😂😂
Very nice, working on a custom printer myself. The cpap motor is a really cool idea, never considered it. One thing I will mention is the UV lights. Just be a bit careful with those. I remember back in the day when I used them in my computer before glass panels were a thing, if you have acrylic panels (not sure if it's the same with poly carbonate), they tend to sort of denature the plastic and cause it to milk up over a couple years. As for your z-rails, from my testing, I've found that normal round bar linear rails are pretty good, the thing is you need to make sure the rods are designed for it, if not you'll notice there will be a tiny little bit of wiggle on the bearing. They're typically sold as precision ground chromed rods. Normal stainless rods usually have slightly different dimensions (assuming you aren't using those already).
Im looking for the most accurate input in a wheel like device , I dont really need a full sim type device, just something that takes the pressure off my controller, because the controller wears out.
Hello sir, I'm engineering student and I'm planning to do a 3D printer with duel extruder as a college project, can you please share me the resources how to build this. I'm very much interested in building this 3D printer.
