I would need a little bit more specific information than that, it could be an indication of an adjustability range or it could be a series and fixed weight, perhaps shoot me a picture of it.
Hi. Congratulations on your videos. I need to raise my Polaris RZR 800S by 200 RPM to bring it up to factory specs of 1200 RPM. I understand that I need to take off some weight. Let's say 4g. And it occurs to me that instead of changing the weight of the arm, I could drill a hole in the area you indicate in the video. Maybe I'm just being silly or crazy. I don't know. What do you think?
Hey so i have a 2024 can am defender lonestar come with 30 inch stock i put 32 inch tire with dalton clutch kit weight in primary like they said and spring in secondary with helix but now i just put 20%gear reduction with 35 inch tire but i have to much rpm i didnt touch the clutch again should i put back the helix to stock well put the primary and seconday to factory or play with some weight
@TheVOHK I had the axys sidekick with the tunnel dump and your clutching and it was amazing. I'm hoping the new boost will come close. Thank you again I'll have to give you guys a call when I pick the new one up and get some parts on order.
We have done alot of testing with both p85 and p22. For many reasons we much prefer the p22 and have had very few failures on boost, now with the updated billet spider the p22 is even more reliable.
Rookie question! Stock xp 1000 wot shift rpm is 8.000rpm, i want to get that up to 8.500rpm for high performance trail riding for that extra punch. To achieve that should i just adjust clutch weights? Or should i look into ECU map? Recomendations are welcome, Thank you
You could effectively do either one. However your best gaming performance would likely be a combination of both. A proper ECU tune and the necessary clutching change will be your best overall game without spending big money. I believe the XP 1000 builds its best power between 82 and 8400 if I'm not mistaken so targeting that as you're clutching goal with respect to it applied to a factory tune would be your best target. In other words if you leave the ECU stock I don't think you would realize the best gain by spinning 8500.
I wonder if you know why the 2023 9R's and even boosts are blowing up clutches and they are eating spark plugs often. I believe there are harmonic issue going on; likely in the clutch. Have you found this and if so have you found a solution.
Thanks for the questions, regarding the spark plugs, the damage to the plugs is being caused by detonation. Clearly the factory calibration could use a little help in this department. Particularly at certain elevations and with certain locally available high ethanol content fuels. A good tuner and can alleviate these problems. We have available tunes for Boost to eliminate detonation but nothing for 9r available right now. Regarding clutches, that problem is somewhat complicated and is primarily an issue on the 9R models and somewhat rare on Boost. Based on what I have observed it appears to be related to the lightweight crankshaft and components on the 9R allowing a much more violent or harsh transfer of combustion energy to the drive clutch and thus ultimately damaging the splines on the spider allowing a minor amount of movement which ultimately leads to bolt loosening. Once the bolt works lose the problem obviously compounds... think of it like the reduction of flywheel Mass has allowed the individual combustion events to transfer a more focused spike or shock load to the drive and with the movable sheave assembly and spider being the heaviest component and that this assembly is meant to resist torsional shock by utilizing the compressive force and the small splines on the inside of the spider the constant hammering eventually has its way. This is at least my observation, I'm not one hundred percent certain about this but that is at least what I think is going on. That is likely the reason why we see far less instances on Boost.
@@TheVOHK Hmm interesting thoughts on the 9R clutch issues, I was thinking more like balance issues on the clutch or cranks that could be solved with a good balance job. That whole inertial idea does interest me. I wonder how Burandt is making out with his even lighter clutch assemblies. As per the plugs it makes sense as I see it more on the sleds with riders that hold them on the pin longer. All my riding is primarily Revelstoke, Golden and Sicamous BC, mostly 5k to 8.5k feet. I am really thinking I am going to keep my 2021 big bore skidoo for another year as I am just seeing to many of the 2023 sleds have way to many major issues. Thanks for your time.
Eric, Being that this video is a couple years old now wanting to know what your finding have been now with the Boost and the 9r. I currently have 155 khaos boost 2.75 track QD2 and 146 khaos 9r 2.6 track QD1. I am looking to change both unit to the TKI kit. However I am wanting to change gearing and not just run the standard ratio if I am spending the money to change to the TKI kit. Any thought?
The industry chose to commonize that variable to create a relatable final value that transcends brand and model. Otherwise the relevant consideration wouldn't be final drive it would be gear ratio. Which in most cases is all that really matters. I think it's nonsense also and believe that individual final drive should be considerate of individual driver configurations... don't blame the messenger:-)...
Why would you give a lower theoretical final drive if you haven’t changed the drivers. If you have 22/50 (2.27) QD2 and then run a 29/69 (2.38), clearly the 29/69 is lower as they are both using the same sized drivers. If a skidoo is 21/53, (2.52), with 6 tooth 3.5” pitch drivers, why would you change the final ratio without actually making a driver change. That’s what they come with. I feel like the info provide wasn’t very clear.
You are absolutely correct, that was something I clarified in comments earlier. That information was essentially Incorrect or at least unclear with respect to the SkiDoo. I apologize for that.
@@TheVOHK same as the Polaris gear down. There is no need to factor in drivers as your not make an actual driver change. The 22/50 QD2 is a higher gear ratio then the Kurt’s 29/69.
Maybe it would be easier if you gave me a call so I can explain. It boils down to all manufacturers commonizing the final variable of final drive and that is why you make the driver correction. It is an effort to create data that will transcend models and manufacturers and still offer a relative expression of final drive. Otherwise we would just be talking gear ratio. Happy to chat with you sometime feel free to give me a call at the shop. 970-724-9655
Where you're going wrong is at the time that we were testing and that I made that video as indicated in the above comment the Kurt's gear down kit was a 32 67 ... that was all they sold and that was all that was available at the time. They have sent altered their gear down kit and it is indeed now a gear down kit but like I said at the time the video was made the Kurt's gear down kit was actually a gear up kit. The facts don't lie.
Great video….even tho I’m a Cat guy lol….just fyi the oem gearing on the alpha you had was correct but the alpha uses a 3.5 pitch 7tooth driver not 3.0 unless you’re referring to the twin rail non-alpha which used the 3.0 pitch 7tooth so the final drive ratio on your chart is incorrect for the alpha being that low.
I know this is an older video, but I have the bikeman adjustable weights on a cat with just 4 magnet slots. My sled has a really hard time getting to full shift, I have a new spider and new weights so there shouldn't be any physical issues, I'm thinking its how I have the weights placed. I currently have weights (from heel to tip) 2-3-3-2. Would adding more weight to the tip help the clutches full shift out, or should I take weight off the tip and move it further down. I'm seeing 8200 rpms on cold days, and about 8100 when its warmer out. I also notice that the sled will achieve full shift on harder packed, freshly groomed trails, but the second there are more than 2-3 tracks on a trail, it just will not shift.
Hi Jake, I suspect that you're cured slightly taller than you should be and that would be why you don't see full shift out of your clutches, the question regarding weight placement would be do the RPMs behave the way you want them to throughout it's full acceleration event to full speed, in other words do you see any Peaks and valleys in RPM as it is traveling through its acceleration event with reasonably consistent traction. If it builds its best power around 8200 and you see 8200 consistently throughout it then it is likely not a matter of moving the weight around in the cam arm but rather considering gearing slightly lower. But ultimately it depends on what you are trying to achieve. There are trade-offs to every applied strategy. Anyway hope that helps, thanks for tuning in.
@@TheVOHK When I first got the sled, it pulled like a monster from all the way from 60-105ish and thats where it would top out. It litterally pulled so hard it felt like it was going to rip my arms of the sled. The sled only ran like this for about 1000 miles and then the weights started to get a groove and had a hard time shifting past the groove. I only have 1000 miles on my current weights/spider, but i'm thinking they could be grooved again. Ill get some new weights and try playing with the placement of the magnets, if that doesn't do what I want it to do, then ill take your advice and change the gearing. I have never regeared a sled before, is it as simple as just going 1 tooth smaller on the drive gear or maybe just 1-2 teeth bigger on the driven gear? Thanks for the help. Can't wait to start playing with weights again once i get my clutch puller.
Sounds like you're on the right track bud. Definitely check the condition of your clutch components, that can have a huge effect on whether or not it will reach end shift.
That was a good watch! Thanks for putting in the time to make this, I personally ride an axys still but am playing with the idea of upgrading. I think I’ll wait until the fuel pump and primary issue is fixed tho. Anyway, when I do go boost I def am going to go to you guys for tuning!
You should take a chassis, maybe last yrs chassis and make a straight tube chassis! I miss tube chassis’s and big bore’s. A BB tube chassis or a turbo but I’d prefer a 9xx bb
Do you plan on just doing a rear bumper or is a front bumper also in the horizon? Is the pump issue just on the turbo models or is it turbo and N/A models too?
Unfortunately the manufacturer we typically work with on our bumpers is undergoing some significant change and ultimately I'm not certain of the final outcome regarding bumpers... sorry.
I am currently running a ssi clutch kit on my axys, besides reading on forums that it works good I really had no idea what the rhyme or reason was to adding magnets to different spots on the weight. Thank you for this video!
@@GamersUnion101 I do like the adjustability. I got a clutch kit for mine originally (including a new secondary setup and primary spring) kind of wish I rode it stock tho to see what the difference is
I really like the bikeman sniper weight but we do not include it in our kits unless we are doing a custom setup. We employ our own weights in all of our kits. Regarding boost packages yes we have packages for that altitude range.
Completely unrelated, but I REALLY wished "Skinz" would change their name. Whoever decided that was a good idea is HORRIBLE at marketing.....sounds like it should be a name for a condom company or something. I'll never own anything from them just because of the cringe factor. Gack.
I know it’s not the type of videos you do but since it’s so relevant to clutching I’d love to see you do a short tutorial on belts, proper belt break in and most importantly when to replace a belt, what signs to look for indicating replacement.
Great video, very informative! Question on the fuel pump issue… My boost has been making the loud pump noise the last couple days I rode it but I have not seen any codes up on the dash yet.. Would you keep riding it till codes come up or get it to the dealer sooner than later? Thanks!
I imagine within the week you'll have a response from the manufacturer regarding what the best course of action is. But for now if you haven't had a low-pressure code then continue riding it...
So my question is today is the 3rd day I rode my boost was on the trail and would hit 45 mph and it would bog out will not go over 45 it keeps boging out
It sounds like you've reached that point where the unit won't tolerate the break-in fuel. But it could be something more serious than that and the best way to diagnose it is by logging the data. The VTI is a great tool to diagnose problems...
Is it out of break in? If not just keep riding it until it is. If it is out of breaking you really should log that data and we can help you sort out what it is... feel free to email information directly to me erik@vohk.com
Just wanted to let you know I think I figured out the problem on my boost. The fuel selector got switched. Switched her back today and man she came alive!!!!. Just wanted to say thanks again for you're help.
Holy cow, I’ve don’t think I’ve heard of a 7200 LPH fuel pump in power sports. What’s that like 5000 % increase in flow to run this tank setup over an Axys eh. Wild. You wouldnt think it would need that much difference when an Axys turbo makes more power on way less fuel flow with same amount of injectors. The world we live in.
Awesome video. Wish you expanded on the pro vs khaos chassis difference and what that feels like. You are one of the few that actually clocked a significant ammount of hours on them....+ 165 2.75 vs 155 3.0 and whatvthat does to a pro chassis.
@@208SledHead yes, and yet I wanted their opinion given the nature of their work requires extensive riding and not just a one or two day test in 1 type of conditions.
@@208SledHead both Polaris ambassadors and both pro's with a tendency for custom sleds that tend to wheelie and be loose feeling that suit that level of a ryder, not much use for the rest of us....and I watched those ofc. Lets not drag this further, I understand what youre saying, but still I made the request that I think will benefit me and some like me, so if they have the time they will do it, if not, thats ok too.
