If you were to remove the lifetime shed outside walls away and than added your own siding or something the price of his added on cost about the same as the lifetime shed alone , so why doesn’t he build the whole thing instead of buying. It a good idea but boy it cost a lot 😂
You are correct. The total to modify the plastic shed and the cost of the shed isn't that much different than just building the shed from wood in the beginning. The biggest advantage is the plastic never needs painting. Does not fade or chip. Does not attract termites. Wood eventually fades, rots and is eventually eaten or at least affected by termites. I had a shed in the exact spot for about 20 years. It had much damage by termites and needed painting. The plastic is now 7 years old and has no noticeable wear, fading, or issues with termites. My opinion is looks modern and I like having it for a shed that doesn't look like a shed but rather a little custom house. Thanks for sharing. jerry
the wood is going to shrink/warp/swell over time wouldnt that distort the weak plastic shed? I would imagine that the galvanized ties would make it a bit more stable.....?
No doubt even the plastic will shift a little over time. The two together have to move together and do help keep everything square. It's been there 7 years and everything has shrunk together with no noticeable distortion. There are so many studs and everything is bolted to concrete. Once there are 4 walls all held together pretty securely it holds its shape quite well. I think that the wood probably shrinks more than the plastic but the wood holds it's shape and stays square. Because the plastic is assembled in many pieces it seems to float quite well inside the wooden frame. I think because of the sturdy wooden frame the plastic stays more square over time than without. Thanks for the comments. blessings, jerry
Excellent work and ideas. I would argue that it is not even necessary to attach any part of the frame to the shed at all---not at the bottom or top. If the lumber measurements are reasonable snug againts the shed, the frame should not shift. Interested in anyone's thoughts on this.
I have 1 thought, 1 question; My shed is a lifetime 15 x 8, but I also have a door on the shortside. Would I need to run a single 13 foot 2 x 4 to support the front side of the 13 foot shelf ( ill tie in to the 8 foot shelf on the wall on the side opposite the door). I am also wondering in a 1 x 8 or 10 at the top of the studs & that ties in to the rafter L shaped Simpson tie at the top would be better than a 2 x 4 (extra shelf)? Thanks
Good question. My shed is the same size but of course I put a wall up on one side. Have you thought of making one side of the shelf say 5 feet wide at the top. Opposite side 2 foot wide. Which give an 8' 2x4 between them. I don't think I would go wider than 10 foot span between shelves. This would give a 2' on one side and opposite would be 3' wide shelf. This would provide lots of shelf space without a support underneath. I think you would be disappointed if you only had a top shelf of 8 or 10 inches in width. Hope this helps. :>)
@@jerrybenson I wasn't clear thats for sure. I intend on running a shelf from left to right in the back, just like you did. The side door in my shed is on the right side as you enter. On the left side I will put up an 8 foot shelf, with a stud just near the window to the left as you walk in, running to the back wall stud. That shelf will be 16 inches as thats the room between the window and the left side of the shed. Not sure of the height of that shelf yet. Then, as you did, I will put a shelf on the back wall from the left side to the right side - thats 15 feet in length, and as deep as I can go to tie in at the side door jam on the right side (lets say thats 18 inches from door jam to the back wall). That front edge of THAT shelf is my concern. Does that need to be a single 13 foot +/- piece of 2 x 4? The back of that shelf will attach to a 2 x 4 that is secured to the back wall studs - same as you designed. At the top of the studs, where you use the simpson L bracket to attach to the rafters is where I was thinking of putting a 1 x 8 x 15 or a 1 x 10 x 15 piece of wood - the mini shelf, rather than the 2 x 4 like you used (I may only go 12 feet on that upper piece of wood as well?) I hope this clears up my plan and question about needing a single 2 x 4 x 13 front edge shelf support. Thanks for you quick answer tho!
@@tkstravels Sounds like your shed is near identical to mine. On the right side of door hinge is where I would begin your right side shelf with a 2x4 floor to ceiling stud. You could make it as wide as all the way to side door which would be 5 feet or any number in between. That way your 13 foot board would shrink to 8 foot for the front side of the back shelf. The front side of that shelf would go from the far left wall shelf to the beginning of the right side shelf, 8 feet. You could go as long as 10 feet in my opinion. When you open the side door your would see the end of the right side shelf. Depending on how wide you want it. If I didn't have the right side wall I probably would have made the right side shelf wider, say 3 feet. Are you sure you want the 1x8x10? For just a little more money and effort you could have considerable more shelf space. I have used all my shelf space and wouldn't change anything. It's nice having no floor supports in the middle of the shed as well. Hope this helps.
Well it’s not quite as expensive as building a wooden shed, but definitely just spent double what the shed alone cost. You paid $1500 for the shed and close to that in wood and hardware!
Thank you again. I just bought this model and my pad is being poured this week. I am looking forward to reinforcing like this once it is up. I'm assuming you did not add the snow reinforcement for the roof. I'm curious how well that system works.
I did pretty much the same reinforcements with my 7x10.5' resin shed... built internal 2x4 stud walls anchored to a pressure treated sill plate that is concrete anchored to the 2x24x24" pavers I used under the entire thing (100 lbs. each). I then ran a bunch of 2-1/2" stainless screws from the outside with washes to lock the resin sides to the frame. There is almost no way it will blow away now in our local winter storms (Buffalo NY).
Excellent way of “showing” as you’re explaining! And slow enough I could follow even though I don’t have lots of building experience. Great design, and well thought out details! Than you for sharing! You saved me so much time!
I want to know if shed is naturally insulated, waterproo, and wind resistant or do i have to add insulation between the wood frame. I live in rainy, cold seattle.
Many different designs for each type of project are also included. For example, there are hundreds of designs ru-vid.comUgkxb2mhCug-GkCWrq69Ce2I0nM0D4QpxAqu for outdoor buildings, from small sheds all the way up to a complete stable. Choose whatever type of shed or storage house is right for you. Pick from fancy ones or more utilitarian designs.
I watched this a while back and I am going to do it this summer. My Lifetime shed has been moving 1cm a year and the plastic walls are popping off the metal frames. I need to fortify the shed or I will throw it out in a few more years
I'm probably not. The only person who've noticed that you're quite a good carpenter and probably should have just built your own shed lol. Great job on your modifications.
Love the video! I recently installed this shed and like the way you reinforced it. I plan to do the same thing but without the diving wall. Can you list in detail the exact hardware used for this reinforcement? From the video you did describe in detail some of the hardware (Simpson ties, screws, anchor bolts) but some I would have to guess (bolts to go through the roof frames). How far apart did you space your 2x4's and what did you use for your floor board to set your studs on? It resembles some type of deck composite. Thanks.
This is a great informative video. Question for you, with the way you have it constructed, do you think it is possible to install resistance band hooks to the wall and withstand the use of the resistance bands?
Fabulous! I just got a resin shed and was trying to figure out how to build something so I can hang tools on the vertical space. Thanks for the inspiration.
@@sprather143 Hi Scott. Good question. I couldn't be happier! It was a good investment. Lifetime kept the weather out and the internal structure is excellent. Just use treated lumber against the floor and make sure you use the small diameter screws. I wouldn't "toe nail" anything. Use the Simpson's. None are splitting after 6 years. Good luck
Hi Jerry- Great video! I will use a similar technique to install my Rubbermaid 7' X 10' Storage Shed. Reinforcement is key to me as I live in Puerto Rico and we are prone to hurricanes. I have an existing 7' X 7' Rubbermaid Big Max Shed and I'm trying to figure out if I can join both sheds together to make one 7' X 17' shed. My idea is to align them per the roof design as they both have a gable design, and reinforce both together per your video. Not sure if this will work or not. I will have to knock out 1 wall on each unit to perform the join or use the existing door opening on the 7 X 7 shed. If not, I ultimately decide on just having two stand-alone sheds. We shall see. Thanks for the idea!
In regards to not filling in the back ... I use costco cardboard boxes to hold my small items. They are free. They are usefull to separate items. Keeps the shelves a bit cleaner as well. Anyway, thanks for posting. Very informative. I am sharing with my husband to give him a hint to do the same to our shed.
Looking at a lifetime shed like this because it was on sale and the price for shelves just seems so expensive . So I was thinking about doing the same thing here . But it’s a shame u have to build a shed inside your shed
