The Pikes Peak Regional Building Department serves most jurisdictions in El Paso County Colorado including Colorado Springs, Fountain, Monument, Manitou Springs, Green Mountain Falls, Palmer Lake, and the Town of Woodland Park in Teller County.
This would not pass in our jurisdiction, that insulation is not going to stop shit its going to fall out. Proper way soffit to wall is plywood or drywall, if your using insulation rock-wool only and it needs to be TIGHT- this is not the way.
Great Information... QUESTION PLEASE: I just bought a new Rheem Short Tank Gas Water Heater (30 gallon, 30,000 BTU) and it has no legs like the the one we're replacing in the unfinished basement. Do non-leg water heaters need to be elevated slightly off the floor or can they directly go on a concrete floor? Thanks and well done video w/great information.... Thanks. Phil
How about the gap on a basement stud wall where the frame has a minimum of 1 1/2 inch expansion gap at the bottom, should this just be filled every 10 feet? As this will be filling the expansion gap, thanks
Correct. On page 64 of the 2023 RBC is the definition of a sleeping room and it states that it will have a closet at least 16” deep. I have attached a link to the RBC below. Thanks. www.pprbd.org/File/ByAlias/2023PPRBC
Great video! What if anything would you do on top off that soffit? I imaging you need to somehow block airflow from the inside of the soffit to the above space between the joists?
As long as the soffit is less than 1000 square feet no draft stopping is required in the dropped ceiling. If the dropped ceiling is over 1000 sq. ft. the areas must be draft stopped into equal sized areas. I have provided a link to the code section below. Hope this helps. Thanks. codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2021P2/chapter-3-building-planning#IRC2021P2_Pt03_Ch03_SecR302.12
I live in colorado springs and am replacing my 50 gallon water heater with another 50 gallon can I install a sediment trap on the gas line even tho its not required and do you need an expansion tank in elpaso county if so what are the requirements for installing one? Also where can I go to see all the requirements to make sure I bring everything up to code?
Hello Landon, thanks for reaching out. Yes an expansion tank is required if there is a PRV, Backflow preventer or check valve on the water service. See handout on our website for more information on water heater replacements. www.pprbd.org/File/Resources/Downloads/ResidentialHandout/Water%20heater%20installation%20ACCESS.pdf If you are going to modify the gas line to add a sediment trap then a mechanical permit will also be required. Hope this helps.
Hey Kameron, thanks for reaching out. Not sure what you mean by "Stilts" Your best bet is to email me at gregd@pprbd.org. I'll get you set up with one of our plumbing inspectors to help.
PLEASE ADVISE…Is it necessary to fill the holes in studs where wire is run horizontally….or…..will the draft stop every 10 feet be enough? Thank you for the informative video.
Hi there Trainman. Thanks for reaching out. You do not need to fireblock any penetration that runs horizontal through the studs. The only time fireblocking penetration is required is when you penetrate the top plate. Hope that helps.
Hey Robert, thanks for reaching out. Drop ceiling only have to be draft stopped if they are over 1000 square feet in area and then it has to be divided into 2 equal areas. Fiberglass insulation can be used as draftstop. Hope that helps.
Hi there. Thanks for watching. Yes. The holes in the top plate need to be fireblocked, but the holes that go horizontally between stud bays do not need to be fireblocked. Hope that helps.
Hi there, thanks for reaching out. You can use a spray foam, but it must be one of the foams specifically designed for fireblocking. They can be purchased at home improvement stores. Hope that helps.
Great video on Fire & Draft Blocking, I learned A Lot!! Does the mineral wool have to extend down a few inches ( 6-12" ) into the stud cavity or just pack it in the space above? Thanks again for the Great Video!
Thanks for the feedback Randy. We're glad the video was helpful. To your question - The code states that the fire blocking must be a minimum of 16”. The code section that discusses this is R302.11.1.2 Unfaced Fiberglass. It states: "Unfaced Fiberglass batt insulation used as fireblocking shall fill the entire cross section of the wall cavity to a height of not less than 16 inches measured vertically. Where piping, conduit, or similar obstructions are encountered, the insulation shall be packed tightly around the obstruction." Hope this helps.
Tim, i was looking up fire blocking code, saw this video and thought ... hey wait, I know him!.... Great video, and thank you for guidance and how you continue to teach us.
I understand what PV labelling is (NEC) , but not sure what the pdf I need to upload must contain as far as "PV labelling" Images of the labelling on the equipment after they are applied..... or descriptions of labels that I intend to apply during installation?
Best video on the planet Earth! Thank you again! I have one more question. If the R-13 faced fiberglass insulation is installed between the studs do I still need to install foam (or other material) every 10 feet to prevent draft? Also, I'm wondering if the insulation can be combined. For example - 16" at the top install Rockwool as fire block and the rest use R-13 fiberglass insulation. Thank you!
Thank you for the compliment. We appreciate it and we hope the video was helpful. As for your question, If the insulation COMPLETELY fills the cavity from front to back and there is not a gap left, then the foam would not need to be used every 10’ for draft stop. Just keep in mind that the draft stopping is often checked at the frame inspection, before the insulation is put in. You'll want to have that discussion with your inspector if you plan to do it that way. You can also mix the rock wool and fiberglass without any issues. Hope that helps.
Furdowns are not required to be fire stoped or draft stoped every 10 feet only the interconnection between vertical (walls) and horizontal (furdown) fire block the furdown at the wall see r302.11 2 also see the diagram for fur downs the 10' horizontal and vertical is from the previous code for walls
That is not entirely correct. The Pikes Peak Regional Building Code says the drop would only need to be Draft stopped when over 1000 sqft as long as the sides connected to walls have been done.
Great video! How thick is the fire block - fiberglass should be? How do you secure 16-inch tall pieces between the studs? Also, On a different note, I wonder why insulation panels are not installed between the frame and the concrete wall. What is permitted to be installed instead? Thank you!
Hi there. Thanks for the feedback and your comment. The insulation needs to be the full depth of the cavity so there is no set depth in the code. You can secure the firestop material with staples or just pressure fit as long as it will stay in place. I am not sure that I understand the last question but I think you are asking why it is not required to insulate the walls when finishing the basement. Because the house is preexisting and the unfinished basement was already inside of the building thermal envelope, there is no code requirement to add additional insulation when the basement is finished. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the information! How would this apply to balloon-framed construction? I imagine fire-blocking would be required between the first floor and attic/second floor, but how about between the crawlspace and first floor wall cavities? And if fire-blocking is required in this scenario, how does one deal with potential moisture traps that old balloon-framed houses with nonexistent or insufficient sheathing or weather-resistant barriers are prone to?
Hi there. You are correct in that those areas do need to be fireblocked as well. You are not required to use fiberglass insulation in all situations though. There are several code approved materials for fireblocking so I have included the code section for you. In the Regional Building Code it is R302.11.1 Fireblocking Materials. 2” nominal lumber blocking will probably be the best product in the case that you are describing but all of the methods are acceptable. Hope that helps.
@@PPRBD Thank you! I was aware that a variety of materials could be used, but I wasn't sure if even wooden blocking could create moisture traps. It sounds like it would be fine though. Of course, my existing studs are actual dimension lumber with uneven spacing, so I'm not looking forward to fitting each piece individually....
Hi there, thanks for reaching out. The smoke and carbon monoxide alarms in the area of the scope of work must be hard wired for the structure. So if the permit is for a basement finish all of the smoke and CO alarms in the basement finish where the wall and ceiling finished are removed must be powered from the electricity of the house (hard wired). The smoke and CO alarms on the other floors that must be installed in the required areas such as bedrooms and outside of bedroom groups, can be battery powered, but must still be interconnected (wirelessly) so that if one goes off they all go off. Hope this helps.
Hi Mark. No the drip leg is not required here in our jurisdiction. The drip leg requirement has been deleted by our local PPRBD amendments. Hope that helps.
THANKS SO VERY MUCH!! We just failed inspection because our hvac closets weren’t fire blocked. We had no earthly idea what the inspector was talking about 🤣🤣 He told us we could have the contractor put drywall in the ceiling of the closets and that would be good. We thought why would we drywall the ceiling of these closets and the rest of the house is down to the studs 🤦🏽♀️ AGAIN, THANKS!!
