Were you have tunability issues? Why did you switch to 3 bar? I'm in the process of installing a Terminator X on my car and just wondering if I should just go straight to 3 bar. I'm running an NA setup.
great onfo im doing the same thing,. where did you put the stater positive wire and did you have to extend it or did you replace with a longer one. thanks great video
@@patnappo the only wire I extended was the starter cable. You can buy like 10ft of 4 gauge wire on amazon and cut to length. Stock wire for the starter was to short and I used 84-86 Mustang positive battery cable since it’s longer then the 87-93.
I’m thinking about doing this same set up as you have done on this wire tuck with the distribution block.. could you possibly do wiring schematic to show how you laid everything out if you could possibly email me if I provided you my email address?
There’s really no special order with connecting the wires to the block. Just take all your original wires that are going to your solenoid and connect them to your block. For the positive battery cable use one from a 84-86 mustang since it is longer then the 87-93. You wanna make sure it’s long enough to make it to the block which is going to give it power. The starter wire I just used a 4 gauge wire from amazon since the stock wire is to short. If you have other aftermarket accessories just run all your power wires to the block and cut to length. You can also get a black distribution block and run all your ground wires to it. To make it easy just label each wire so you know what each one goes to but really no special wiring order.
Thank you for being the only resource to show me WHERE my starter is so I can tap to start it! I’m not going to attempt to change it myself but really saved my tail in a pinch.
Glad my video was helpful. Also if your Explorer is NOT 4 wheel drive it’s easier to get to without the front differential in the way. If you’re just gonna tap it with a hammer you can easily crawl under the front driver side and tap it without taking the tire and splash shield off like I did.
@@RCProperties-c3r so tapping your starter with a hammer is only a temporary fix. Sometimes it works and sometimes it won’t depending on how old your starter is. You can lightly tap the side of the starter while someone turns the key. You can also try tapping the solenoid which is the small section where your wires connect to. DONT tap on the wires with the hammer. You can check your wire connections as well make sure there clean and nice and tight. If none of these work I highly recommend just replacing the starter so you don’t have to worry about getting stranded and save yourself the headache.
No, no, no, no. There is ONE ground wire. For God's sakes you want to cause people to melt their whole world, exoplode their battery???? There is ONE ground wire, ONE big 12 Volt starter power wire, and a 12 Volt trigger wire for the actuator. Geeeeeez. You just might kill someone saying both fat wires are grounded. They are isolated from each other. Do not in any way assume the two fat wires are both grounded. Get them exactly where they should go.
I probably should have mentioned in the comments instead of in the description. Everything I did was wired correctly. The thick black wire is power and the small is ground. Seeing black wires I kept saying ground 😂. I changed a starter in my buddies 04 Explorer and his power wire was red and same on my Mustang. I realized after I posted so I mentioned it in the description.
I just finished wiring my AC to the stock foxbody wiring. All I did was get 12V from the original harness pigtail next to the brake booster. Look for the Green with purple wire. This is the one that comes from the MaxAC switch. From there send 12V to the low pressure sensor. Connect to one of the two wires. Then connect another wire from the low pressure switch to your AC compressor. Finally ground the compressor. AC works perfect without additional harness.
@eljefe347 I simply wired the stock mustang wiring to the AC Compresor. The holley system is only needed to tell the engine to raise the rpm at idle and to turn on a secondary fan to help with cooling down the condensor. I will be wiring in the holley eventually because the idle does drop a bit when the compressor turns on. If I turn it on while driving, no issues at all.
Glad to find your video. I’ve had the dash out for 3 years and am just now putting it back together, for the life of me I could not remember or see where that went, ha!
Did you get your alternator bracket from Jegs? They have cheaper versions on Amazon which aren’t as good but double check to make sure you’re putting the different length spacers in the right spot. Jegs has a diagram as far as which spacer goes where.
Awesome! Hope this video helps. When your done installing get a string and go around your pulleys so you can get a measurement for serpentine belt so you know what size to get. 👍
The ac kick is going to hook up to the white w/ blue wire on the Holley input/output connector. These kits are universal so either you’re going to have to cut off your old connectors or you can go on LMR and pick up new connectors for the cycling switch and compressor. I believe the factory connector for cycling switch has 3 wires a greens w/ black and 2 pink w/white. You’re going to hook up to the green w/black and only 1 pink w/white.
I have a 1989 convertible. My question is,is the wiring different. You said green and white striped wire for that the VSS wire but I only have a green with yellow stripe wire. Can you help me out please
There should be 2 green with white stripe wires on the driver side behind the kick panel. If not you can check on the passenger side kick panel there should be a grey with a black stripe going to the pcm. Those are the only 2 options that I know of.
Nice job. Going to do this soon with mine. I like where you ended mounting the usb port. I have an 04 with the premium sound but judging from other vids, process looks exact. Had to also replace my front speakers because they were working whenever they wanted to.
It’s funny you said you were having issues with your front speakers. I had the same problem with mine. My front driver side speaker and rear passenger speaker kept coming on and off once in awhile then finally just stopped working. Must be common problems with these Explorers. Glad you enjoyed the video and good luck installing your new radio and speakers. Hope this video helps out.👍
Great stuff. I'm looking forward to seeing how you put those parts to use. I completed a 351W swap about 24 years ago. My car is a dark shadow blue, 1989 GT Convertible. I had to get a 3" cowl induction hood to clear my intake and the air intake tube still rubs a little on the corner where the cowl starts to angle upward. I've been looking for a hood like yours hoping the stepped cowl would clear. Does the underside of that new hood follow the contour of the outside of the hood, or is it basically the same as your previous hood?
I haven’t test fitted the new hood just yet. I had to install all new brake lines so it’s easier for me to work without the hood. Everything is almost complete. When I had my 3 inch cowl hood which was a cheap $200 hood I never had any clearance issues but it didn’t line up to well. I didn’t like the gap between the hood and fender. What kind of intake tube do you have? The bbk intake I have didnt rub on the cowl hood plus I have a 1 inch spacer on the intake manifold and cleared no problem. I looked under the new hood and it follows the contour of the outside. I will have a video once I install the new hood and let you know plus the 351 is going to be a back up motor. I just dropped in a brand new 306. Your dark shadow blue sounds almost like the same color as mine. Do you have the blue interior?
You have to set it manually. When you go under settings you select speedometer then select set odometer and type in the mileage. Once you set it and hit OK you get 3 try’s in case you make a mistake. You only have 500 miles to custom set your mileage. After that you CANNOT make changes.
The Dakota Digital are nice as well. The only think I don’t really like is wiring everything to the control box and then trying to find a good spot to mount it.
I got both flashers from LMR. On the description it says for turn signals and emergency flasher. Is there a difference? Also I reinstalled the original switch and still the same problem. I also have a 130 amp alternator and new battery which should be plenty of juice.
If you are not experienced enough to diagnose it using a test light I would start by reinstalling the original hazard switch, combination switch and flasher! But keep checking after each one is installed! Also are you sure you replaced your flashers with the correct one and did not mix the two up? There is a difference in resistance in which each one was designed to work! For example if your right front turn signal bulb is blown you’re right rear blinker will not work, But if you turn on your hazards all of the lights will work except for the right front because it is blown! Some people don’t realize that one flasher is for your turn signals and the other is for your hazards! I saw in another video how slow your blinkers were, I left a comment suggesting to replace your flashers! In this video I noticed how fast your blinkers were and that does not seem normal at all! I have a 93 Cobra with 26,000 miles on it, After I left the dealership one of the first things I noticed was the speed of my blinkers as well as my volt gauge Reading around 14 volts, It didn’t matter if I had all of my lights on the A/C and blower my vote always stayed strong between 13.4 to 13.9! The car is now 29 years old and the alternator is still working perfectly! What I’m saying is your blinkers are way faster than the blinkers on my Cobra which has been kept in a heated garage it’s whole life! By the way I live in NJ! If you purchased your combination switch, hazard switch and flashers from Amazon I would definitely start there, Amazon is filled with nothing but garbage from China! People think that they are getting a good deal when in reality they are not! Hopefully you find the problem and post a video about it! Good luck
I buy all my parts from LMR. I don’t like to buy off brand parts on Amazon. My blinkers use to be very slow to where they would barely blink. Ever since I replaced both flashers and put in a brand new battery this is the fastest I’ve seen them blink. I live in Maryland and I keep my car garage kept as well
I know these cars are known For the extremely weak charging system as well as the slow blinkers, But I have never seen any blink as slow as those! Replacing your flasher with a quality one will make a difference! I have a 92 LX convertible and I replaced every single bulb with quality LEDs, That will help with your voltage when you are sitting at a traffic light at night with your A/C on! But if your engine is boosted you should definitely replace your alternator as well as installing the heavier wiring harness! Everything in your car was designed for a certain voltage, Which is around 13V! Anytime your volt drop below that whether you know it or not everything starts to slow down, Your fuel pump will spin slower, injectors will not only get slower but weaker and let’s not forget about your ECU will start processing and reacting a little slower! Also if you replaced your mechanical fan with an electric fan that will put a huge load on your alternator, I just thought that I would give you a little something to think about! I have been working on these cars since the late 80s and I have never had anyone ask me anything about their charging system except for when it actually fails, They are always worried about cold air intakes and off road H pipes! But anytime I mention they’re charging systems they don’t even want to hear it, People just don’t know what they don’t know!
Why does everyone keep adding adapters to the oil log every time they need to mount something, Just unscrew it from your engine and simply drill and tap a new hole! Every time you add an adapter you are just asking for an oil leak!
It might be hard to see but I have 2 oil sensors on there. One for the digital dash and the other for the Holley terminator X. Unfortunately I had to add a t fitting plus a few adapters. I had to use a 3/8in from the log to a 1/8in adapter for the sensors
I have that exact IAC on my 98 cobra, term x, comp stage 3s, needless to say the ford pwm controlled iac would not work, ( it relys on vacuum, which I have very little of ) but using the stepper setup iac it using actual power to close and open. I banged my head against the wall trying to make the stock one work, your definitely doing it right the first time.
I always like to do some researching before making any changes and I watched a few videos on swapping out the stock IAC since they always seem to have issues with idling. Apparently the one I’m using now works way better. I’m glad to hear this one works better then stock. Does your Cobra idle better now that you got rid of the stock IAC?
wait a second, i too have a 98 cobra that i am supercharging and swapping to a holley, im still researching stuff and randomly found this video. so if i read your comments right the stock IAC is going to be a no go???? man if thats the case thats crazy i randomly found this video. thank you!
Awsome info , thank you . How did the different iac work out for you ? Still running good ? I have a h/c/I with Vortech s trim setup , going Holley soon . Thanks Ed
Not sure just yet. I’ve been getting everything finished up. The motor is brand new. I just put all new suspension and upgraded the brake system. Hopefully I’ll have it fired up soon. I’ll keep you posted and let you know how it works out and yes the Holley setup was very easy to install. I’d recommend getting it soon since prices are going up on everything. I paid about $1200 from LMR. Now it’s almost $2000 for it. Keep in mind if you end up going Holley you won’t be needing Mass Air setup. It’s setup for speed density.
I've been wanting this for years and now someone has delivered. Autometer's video says that it will calibrated to the OEM speed sensor. What does that mean? I can't find the installation instructions online. Thanks.
Yes you will tap into to VSS ( Vehicle Speed Sensor ) wire which will be a green with yellow stripe that I mention in the video. Since it’s digital cluster you will no longer use the old speed cable. You can also check out LMRs video on how to install a digital gauge cluster which is basically the same but different brand gauge clusters.
Unfortunately I don’t have videos on the build. I never really thought about making videos or just in the moment I forget to film what I’m doing. I’m not using any special cameras just my iPhone and still learning how to edit videos lol but if there’s anything you want me to go over let me know
Thanks! I try not to skip anything and try to explain everything step by step so it’s easier for everyone to understand and yeah I guess I’m kind of a neat freak. I try to keep my car spotless inside and out 😂
No it’s just a 306 SB Ford with all new aftermarket parts. Nothing to crazy and as of now it has a/c delete because at first I couldn’t find the ac add on for the Terminator X so originally I was just gonna do without ac until I found this add on harness. Honestly I’m not a fan of putting a Chevy motor in a Mustang. I would recommend putting a 7.3 Godzilla motor in it for only $8k. It’s basically a beefed up Chevy LS but I’ve never done any LS swaps or coyote swaps so I honestly have no clue about the ac lines.
Do you know if this ac add on harness would work on my 85 F150 also? I kept most of the Ac wiring when I swapped the truck over to the Terminator x, but I have no idea on how to wire my ac to work with my Holley
So you kept ac wiring from your original harness? If you have the Holley terminator X harness you don’t need anything from the old harness besides the connectors. The AC add on is universal so the connectors might not work. You can slice on your original or buy new ones.
@@DarkFoxx88 Well, here’s the problem. I am replacing the engine with one that I pulled out of a Explorer. So I’m planning on using the accessories and drive from the explorer. The ac compressor is completely different from my stock 85 compressor. So I was thinking about replacing the ac wiring if this kit would allow me to do that.
@@d.collier_8280 it should still work even if the compressor is completely different as long as your using the Holley Terminator X engine harness and the ac add on harness it should work but like I said buy new or reuse your factory connectors since the ac add on harness is universal.
