just a short tease of a new summer project that I'll be working on. My battery on my phone was dying and the tractor battery was to weak to get it started again after testing it. I'll more videos out on it when I can, so don't hold your breath LOL
This is exactly what I needed to see today!!!! I've been struggling with an old mower for about a week now and now the tire is stuck!!! But about a month ago my husband and I loaded a whole ass 1 ton non running truck onto a trailer just he and I with nothing but a single come along, no ramps, 3 chains, a ratchet strap, a floor jack, and the strongest tree limb we could find!!! Redneckinuity at its finest!!!!
That was Cool , I my self Own a 1982 FF24 I can pull more than that 410 Deer, This is not saying that the 410 is a bad buy, No. But that FF24 is just little Tractor then the 410, About 10 years ago I rebuilt my FF24, and it looks like it did and runs like it did back in 1982. Now the bad part of this FF Tractor parts are a little hard to find, If one take care of this Tractor it will outlive you, And I am now 70 and I use it on my Strawberry farm all the time down here in Alford , Fla.
I myself do not own an FF model so I envy you both! I do however have an SS16 with the peerless transaxle (pretty sure FF was Eaton) and onan 16, I made short work of 4 stumps that size and one larger so I do wonder how good those Eatons are now. Still yet I love watching those old Sears put in the work!
drill two holes in the rim and just use a gear puller with bolts. most rims have the two holes drilled by the factory just in case of it being stuck on.
Very interesting video...BUT, I couldn't but wonder if all that force on the back side of the old rim likely bent the rim. The configured "puller" you designed created so much force that it was like having the stamped steel rim in a vice. The rim wasn't designed for such lateral forces. If you're scrapping the rim anyway, that's not a worry.
You are Correct David. This can generate a lot to force on the rims but there is 4, 3/4 inch points of contact on the back side of the rim out side of the rim. It seams to do fine. On this little lawn mower it was the trans axle that is worth saving so I don't not want to pound on it. There is a Hydraulic tool that works the same way for Big rigs, mining equipment and other huge stuck on rims. It hangs off an A frame or hoist. Has two solid bar that goes behind the rim with adjustable holes. One huge bar in front and a hydraulic ram in the center. Sound like an explosion when it breaks off. I lost my books marks last week when installing Firefox or I would like that video to you . It is impressive. Thanks for the comment and have a great day.
You were lucky! Mine broke the center collar out of the rim. I then had to use an angle grinder and cut off wheel to slice the collar. Another 2-3 hours. Liked the Red Green Comment!
LOL how does it go, "Men, remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy" The one I hate are the ones with two set of bearing frozen to the axle.
Many bottle jacks will not work on their side. If you have one, use an Impact gun and rattle the axle a bit. Don't pull the axle out of the Tranny! Great rigging.
You don't know the difference between a tire and a wheel, what you were really trying to do was remove the wheel , although you do not know the difference you were successful
Hay Ray It is down to my training in the Military and how stuff is ordered and classified for the supply system. A tire is the rubber part. The Rim is the metal part. A wheel is a mounted Tire on a Rim and is shipped and ordered as wheel assembly. We I did slip up and say tire. we all makes mistakes.
Great video. Thanks for that. You mentioned a true Canadian hero. Red Green's most famous quote is ..... "Don't get in the way of where electricity wants to go".
The thicker black metal ( C channel ) was in a recliner chair I disabled. That part had the spring, and the spring pushed a ratchet stop, to stop the chair reclining farther. The lighter metal is extra siding off the garage just bent to fill in the C channel. It is just cut to shape and pop riveted to the mail box.
That’s a lot of work… I have a much simpler way…you need an air compressor though..but if you do.. Drill a small dimple in the center of the axle, get a small air hammer with a pointed punch …grab the tire from behind and as you hammer on the axle dimple..pull the tire….it will break the rust and the tire will come slowly off…Voila!
@@richardmartin7534 I have seen your technique in other videos. However more people have a bottle jack than an air chisel (at least that is my situation).
I wish I had known about this method. I used a torch, and it still wouldn't come off. All I needed was the tire. I always use anti-seize when the wheel is installed.
I have looked at those with the Hydraulics pumps in the middle. Even made a CAD drawing on how to hook them up to the Rim with out distorting them. So of my bigger garden tractors ties are to big for that puller jaws. With that said. I'm slowly working on pretty well the same as I did it in this video, but will be using a 20ton Porta Power Hydraulic Jack Body Frame Repair Kit unit. These can be used Vert/Horz .
It’s so cool seeing another one found and saved! Yours looks like it’s super nice shape too, the hood n grill look great, I can’t wait to see ya on a burn with this bad boy! Thumbs up and subscribed!
Thank you good Sir. I have watched a lot of your videos in the past few years as well. Any thing to do with Hydro-trac is all way good to see. I played with it a bit more today and found It is a 13hp GrayHound engine. The engine is frozen. The Hydro level is moving but not fully in to forward or reverse. Thinking I'll have to open up the unit. The pistons in the pump housing are probably stuck. The 1968 Hydro are my Fav sears, and the 129 hydro Cub cadets are fun as well. Anything dealing with 1964 I play with as well.
prob a ratchet strap would work as well around the tire and the bottle jack then just work the bottle jack ?? maybe a socket to size against the axle just a thought
If you would have lubricated it the day before you would have not had to do none of that! All you had to do was pound on the back with a rubber hammer it would have came loose my God the stupidity of people!
Yep, I agree, in deed, the stupidity of people is right. Blaster was used on both side the day before a few hours prior to the video. The right side came off with just a kick. The left side did not. The set up to way to long and flimsy but was meant to be funny. The idea of the set up was borrowed off a tool sold for this type of of work. That tool uses two bars in back just like this but a lead screw for the driving force like a gear puller. Hammering on a rubber tire with a rubber mallet just absorb the force. Smacking the rim just roles the edges of the rim. This is a really light rim. Hammer all so places unneeded stress on the transaxles. People have broken the aluminum housing of the transaxles, cracked bearing races in the differential or snapped retaining rings off inside the transaxles. You can see for your self in the vintage tractor forums the carnage people do with hammering on rimes trying to remove them. Stick around I'm actually making a better setup using a hydraulic power ram designed to be and any orientation. Should be fun.
I believe you can do it with a car Jack, The small part of the Jack needs a to hold a small round shaft that will sit on the axle shaft. Next you'll need a way to keep the chain from slipping off the bottom off the bottom on the jack, and keep it centered.
