Is this after council shat the groin up? Do people remember that gut wrenching left cunjee rock platform take off? Oh man had some good ones there on a big HT the horseshoe let you in. Um was a circus my last yr of surfing and spots once uncrowded were by then, I diagnosed with a pretty hardcore disease so I hanged up the boards.
Black America is more American than any other American! They've been given the name African-American to make them never feel like they're truly American to suppress and depress them demoralise make them feel less than white man. Not white man society white man leader
I saw the original video. His name is Mitch Parkinson and he's a world famous surfer from Australia. That was his cousin that dropped down on him. In the original video he rode that wave so far he was still riding it when the camera couldn't see him anymore. Just Google his name and stole a surf board. Should be able to find the video.
Wish I was good enough to do that. Talk about teaching someone a lesson. Good thing the surf wasnt too big. I lost my board in 8 foot Costa Rica this past Jan and almost lost my life because of it. There was insane rip current that would pull you out to sea, so I had to swim back in through the break. Without a board I was getting picked up in air and pitched strait down. A couple times I bounced off the floor. Longest 10 min of my life.
Back in the 70s I surfed Snapper - running all the way through to Greenmount beach - with only about up to 15 guys out. Yes really. Many many times. The section in-between Snapper and Greenmount you had to bounce-push it to get through where it went fat, but the bigger ones you could do it. Snapper itself used to double-up and peel really shallow all the way nearly to Greenmount point. I'll never forget those days.
