INSTEAD OF ALL THE CUSTOM DRILLING,ETC. A SMALL SHACKLE OR CLEVICE WITH SHORT BIT OF CHAIN. PUT SHACKLE PIN IN SPROCKET HOLE,AND BOLT CHAIN TO HEAD,SWITCH BOLTED CHAIN TO OTHER SIDE FOR REAR LH THREAD.
Wouldn't have the part number or name of the first seal you put the silicone on in beginning of video? Mine is leaking and need to replace. It's a upper cradle right? Thanks
no I dont remember , I did most of my searches under ford explorer because their the same more results , the dealer would know as well as Rock auto is pretty good if you give them a description . they can be a little hard to get out I hear but mine popped right out with a pick. Ill try to locate the number and post it.
@@ronaldtober9443 hmm I have my block on a stand upside down right now. They seem pretty stuck in there but I’ve got replacement washers for them since I received the engine torn up
207k, you're lucky or you drove it easy. Started on mine today @ 176k. I'm doing the balance shaft delete. Then the head gaskets and new oil pump. If you want to get better mileage advance cam timing 2 or so degrees advance.
after taking the engine out and dropping the pan , the balance shaft chain in the front was the worst , loose and flopping around and hitting the edge of the pan, but went through the engine and its still running like a champ , replace the transmission from (street smart Transmission) in late 2018 , so I should be driving that beast for a few more years.
Thanks for the info, when the truck mount service center was out of mechanics that day and I needed to replace an alternator belt, your video saved the day!
in the process now of installing the unit in a newer van, so when i pulled it out i removed the engine , put it on a engine stand replaced all gaskets and front and rear seals ,cleaned painted and now im waiting for my dirty water tank to get fixed, come to find out there were all kinds of pin holes and corrosion which makes aluminium pit and cause leaks without even knowing it , 20 years old tho. good luck , if you have any questions give a holler , ive had pretty much every thing happen and know how to trouble shoot. there good truck mounts , but the cork gaskets get brittle and the end seals will start to leak , im going to post a couple short videos on it soon.
oil pan cradle center bolts torque? You did not even put the bolts in the holes, or torque them down. should be called "talk about" doing it. thankx name it right.
One of those bolts came out while I was driving. Where can I buy one because I have looked and looked and I cannot find them for sale. Unless I am not looking for them right, I tried searching for oil pan bolts, cradle bolts and I keep coming up with nothing. I really need one of those bolts. I am dead in the water right now until I find one.
The way he says it man like it is so easy i almost died doing the first 90 degree how am I supposed to do a second 90 degree i couldnt even get some of them to do a full 90 some of them are like 75 or even 80 degrees that shit is soooooo hard i also was researching online someone said he went to ford and got a copy of their technicians handbook and the book said 90 degrees only once then the internet says twice some says once hayness manual says twice. Im so confused man i really really dont think i can do an additional 90 degree...
90 degrees is only 1/4 turn and then 90 more is another 1/4 turn , when i used my torque wrench it came out to i believe around 100 ft lbs when i was done on the last 90
I know this is old. But I am going through the same issue. My 2003 ford shop manual only calls for one 90* after initial 24 lb-ft. Something is wrong somewhere. That first 90* was a bitch. My threads are clean and I did use light oil
That's a clean rig for a Performer sir, nice to see. I was trained on these, and recently picked up a used one with a micro-processor on the front instead of the classic analog controls. Wish me luck :/
awesome , nice machine , I'm confident this machine will last past my retirement and beyond , i thought i had a small oil pan gasket leak but come to find out i just had it a touch to much oil in it , so do not fill past high mark on dip stick ,, it doesn't take much past and will leak. I have over 7000 hrs and still doesn't burn a drop of oil and heat is spot on as long as your heat exchangers are clean and air pump works, as well as your bye pass valves are good.
The one I just acquired is at 7,400, it's an oily mess... and it runs like a striped ape. I've been cleaning it up and changing oils and pumps all day, and have complete faith in it. It probably sounds cliche, the they really do not build them like the Performer anymore. As a side note, I found a great distributor that carries almost every part you could ever need, and doesn't mark everything up to ridiculous levels like a certain... Don we all know. Feel free to message if you ever need a second opinion. nate@sabyltech.com
@@jgalves5 A&R Supply out of Albuquerque, NM. We had a couple of shipping screwups with them since having this conversation, but they're still the best stocked and most fair with pricing in my experience.
Just fyi, don’t burn me too bad, but I have reused the same tty bolt on several 4.0 engines and have never broke one. I would not reuse it more than once tho! Is it wrong to do? Yes. Does it work? Yes.
I had a subscription to all data for all specs but i think chiltons manual has them as well , But it pays to have a 1 year subscription to all data , it has everything you need and then some , I paid 14.00 for one year.Her is info on a page www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/sohc-v6-torque-specifications.406687/
Hi ronald, have couple of questions, first what type of paint did you use for the blue and the black areas you have there, second are there kind of any other bolts like allen type inside or after you take off the center bolts cause my pan don't want to come off, and if you know can you tell me the number, and last did you get to publish the tori and tools needed for the job and where..?
Engine paint from local store, High temp paint made just for manifolds. yes all center bolts , but also two torx on each end on outside of cradle . the tools needed for the cams to lock in place i believe are OTC Tools # 6488 all torx sockets i needed i got from Napa , but also two torc wrenches from sears , small one and a larger one for all head bolts, which i already had the larger one. I also subscribed for a year on All Data web site . help with the job. also I got all parts from different venders to get high quality as well as price. rock auto was a main one but some parts i got from ebay and so on. here is a video on all bolts to put back on, or take off ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g4peDeOpdUc.html
I bought a new spindle with the bearing because I drove it for too long when the bearing went out and it wore the spindle down. Not an easy part to find
Hey Ron, thanks for the video. I'm kind of wishing there was a bit more detail about the process of pressing the hub out and back in, and pressing the bearing out and back in. Your press setup and tools would be of particular interest, since I have access to a lathe and can pretty much make up whatever I need. How many ton press is that you're using?
I intended to but , trying to run the cam and everything at the same time proved to be harder than expected. next time Ill have a better idea. The press was from harbor freight I believe 12 ton . and both sides tof the car the inner part of the bearing cam out first and then I used an old bearing from a different project to push out the bearing sleeve , I had to get something that was just big enough to set on the sleeve and push it out ,and it didn't want to come out easy , but as soon as it breaks free then it will slowly press out .
