looking for some help, my black lights stopped working on my cluster so i replaced the high voltage power supply and the lights with known good parts and they still do not work when the vehicle lights are switched on. do you know what could cause this?
11:40 dip the braid in liquid flux and it pulls that solder out of there much better! Do any of these units come with screws already from the factory? When I took mine apart, they already had screws in there. It didn't look like it had been worked on previously. Also, check out a product called Plastifix for repairing the cut plastic pieces. I've restored many plastic parts in my '86 with this stuff, it's a really cool product!
I'm just wondering why the heck would you put that stupid thin press on nothing back on should just put a goddamn threaded night on there with a thin wall
Great videos and service you provide. I tried it first with a cheaper kit from ebay and I failed right away...so I bought your kit and mimicked everything you did (same roller, same walmart cleaner, air duster, viva towels) and everything went great. if I had to say other than the obvious adhesive removal the air duster is absolutely mandatory. thanks so much!
Im trying to fix one for a friend of mine and the backlight is not working. If i inject on the dimmer pin some volts then it starts and the dimming works good. Any thoughts?
What is that relay attached to the housing cover? I’m having an unusual issue with my 89. When I turn on the ignition, there is an intermittent clicking sound that appears to be coming from this area when the HVAC is off. Turning on the HVAC makes the clicking stop. Any ideas?
Wow! Really one of the Best Videos I've seen on RU-vid. Outstanding. We have a 92 and a 93, the 93 just went completely blank while my daughter was driving it. The 92 Goes completely blank, tap the top of the dash, comes back on, and I watch as "Sys" pop up on the screen , then disappear. It's apparent after watching this video, I need better solder and the tool that sucks the solder off the connectors on past projects!! Great job displaying patience. Looks like I'm going to be buying some things from you! Again, fantastic job!
I received your tint kit, replaced as described, however, when it put it back together, I must have not hooked up correctly. I get lights, but no readings. Anyway to trouble shoot?
Hello: we are sorry for the trouble. You might check your be sure the top board connector is seated onto the pins of the bottom board connector. If you are still having issues, send it to us and let us check it out at no charge!
Man this is so slick, I'm going to have to send you my perfectly working IP to have this installed. (I could never trust myself to remove that film without destroying it!)
My problem is that the silicone switch contacts has cracked and I cant find those anywhere. I had to cut and fiddle with the ones who still is intact to make the most important functions to work. I hate that those ******* discontinued the faceplate . Just makes it harder for all C4 enthusiasts to maintain their vehicles
We connect ours to the ground lug of a 3 prong electrical plug, then plug it into a wall outlet. Clipping it to a metal water pipe works, too. Wood is a good insulator. During the cold season we use a humidifier in the shop to control static.
anyone know any tutorials on how to fix the transmitter area on the board? I replaced the switches and tested them with a multimeter and the led light lights up if manually triggered with external battery source so I know the led is good but does light up not when pressing the buttons. Thanks
My LCD does a sort of "rolling" where my speedometer freezes, and then shows every crystal lit, and then goes completely dim, and it does this very quick in rotation between each setting randomly. Would you have an idea of what that is? Also my tachometer is off to about 4000 rpm when it's idling, and under load it instantly shows redline, I assume that's the same tachometer module you replaced in this video, would I be correct?
The rolling display is a failure of one of the digital data lines A11-A17 of the wiring harness connector. I recommend resoldering the 34 connections where the wiring harness joins to the instrument panel circuit board. Clean the wiring harness connector and the LCD panel connector with contact cleaner like DeOxIt. The tach issue you describe sounds like a failure of the analog cal IC. If you need us to do the work, we can do it in about three business days.
@@bryanthompson3180 Awesome thank you for confirming my hypothesis, I think I'll end up ordering the cal IC from your store, and then soldering it all myself, as I've got the experience, just not a corvette guy haha.
I believe you also have to pull the lower plastic around gear shift, there are screws at the the bottom you normally need to remove. As you noted you have some screws missing
We can probably check it out same day, and depending on the issue, maybe send you home with it. Call us and set up an appointment, otherwise we might be out fishing!
Any feedback concerning a coolant temp gauge needle being off scale in the black area. I changed the analog temp sensor in engine block. The needle remains pegged off scale . Moves about 1/4 inch back and forth off scale when key is turned. Stepper motor? Any ideas? How much to rebuild gauge cluster? Are stepper motors tough to replace? I’ve already had dash off once. Nick
Thank you. About to do that. No LED display at all (orange glow only). So I might be getting a screen from y'all. Worked fine when parked 8 years ago, nothing now after getting the car running again (4L60E replacement).
I will add that you disconnected the + terminal as opposed to the - terminal. I've always done the - one as instructed in every other manual and video. Just curious why? Thanks again.
