I think my bike has the power valve stuck the error light (engine light) blinks 5 times and the bike has no power in high rpms ( it is kinda limited, doesn't develop full power), I tried to reset the valves with the dongle that comes with the bike ( half throttle procedure ) and de bike makes no noise after I release the throttle. Bike has 25 hours on it, already changed transmission oil twice. Any advices? have you ever seen it
Hey Dave, I've been watching a lot of your videos to learn about my new 2024 KTM EXC 150 TBI. I bought it a month ago and waited to ride it until I could do an event. The bike runs great and the spark plug is clean, but I'm getting a malfunction code for the crankcase pressure sensor. I'm planning to buy your part and change it, but I'm wondering if I can still ride my bike for a week or so while I wait for the part to arrive. Is it a major issue or a minor one for the engine? Also, the bike leaks oil from the exhaust, just like you mentioned in one of your videos. It's well-lubricated, though. It has three hours on it, and I'm using 70% power until the gear oil change and five-hour competition. Let me know what you think.
This sounds great! I have a 2024 tx300 with a medium compression head. Would adding this larger cover and the reeds that also sell help add some bottom end and possibly midrange ?
Por favor, envie um link para a compra do seu produto. Estou tendo muitos problemas com o sensor da minha ktm 300 exc 2024. Ela está acendendo a luz de injeção eletrônica, 1 vez lenta, e 4 rápidas.
The more I see about these tbi engines the more I keep seeing 250/300 stuff. I have a 150 tbi and would love to see what you think of that engine if you get your hands on one.
After pressure testing my 300 it showed a major leak and how loose the CCP sensor fit the rubber manifold. When I removed the sensor it had oil dripping out of the inlet, effects from bad clutch side crank seal. I like the looks of the CCP sensor manifold set up you made there, has to be way better than loose fitting factory manifold.
Interesting!... A fine round file like a chainsaw file might give you a bit more control on shaping/widening those two coolant passages . Just a thought. Thanks for the tips!
I want to give a shout-out for this product. I put mine on my 2023 TX300 and wow, the improvement in throttle response and mid-power lug ability is amazing. It also seems to have cleared up the throttle bobble. I'm excited to put on a new header pipe to get the full experience since my current pipe is really badly smashed.
Appreciate the good report. I will say the pro circuit pipe works the best to compliment this part. The pc pipe is the best overall anyhow. Better mid range than stock. FMF just like stock and scalvini was a loss, no matter what the situation. Bills has a bit more over rev. I test A LOT of stuff
STIHL makes a seal puller for their chainsaws, it’s a 2 jaw puller style with 8 different sets of jaws. Expensive but very nice, the aftermarket knockoff is $99
I just switched from KTM (long time faithful customer) to Beta RE and couldnt be happier. Not only is the Keihen a simple set it and forget it, except for summer vs winter jetting, the KYB suspension is amazing. I'm not arguing that the new TBIs arent good, just saying there's way more potential issues that can leave you stranded with all the new sensors and wiring. If you live in the mountains where elevation changes are extreme, I can see the advantage. But, for the normal weekend warrior, its not necessary. You'd get more out of better conditioning yourself and proper suspension setup.
My tbi had me a little upset with the build quality but this past weekend the oem battery decided to short out (oem quality 😂) literally on the starting gate, bumped the bike and kept it going for the moto, got a new battery before the 2nd moto but I was at the least impressed the bike ran flawlessly with just the stator powering the electronics
Darn it Dave, I just did the clutch side crank seal on my ‘18 250 XCW carb bike and I didn’t think about that spring. You made me go dig in the trash for it and make sure the spring was still on it! 🤣. I also might suggest dressing the edges on your seal puller. It is easy to scratch the crank with the sharp edges. Are there any better tools to safely pull a crank seal?
Having just replaced the crank seals on my 23 300 I had run into an old issue, the O.D of the seals are not coated so they can score the seal bore of the crank case during install. When I pulled the clutch side seal which was installed at the factory the bore was scored badly and required clean up and some sealer to the bore before installing a new seal.
A lot of these kms are assembled at the same place that does zero motorcycles and I'm sure some others, in the phillipines. I know one person who lives in manilla and they get $2 an hour. So you get what you pay for sometimes. Luckily, a lot of them run great and seem to have no problems
i had the clutch side seal fall out. The new one pressed in still pretty tight, but I used some bearing retaining compound (similar to loctite) just in case.
@@therawlifefamily Not a fan of the seals they are using that are bare metal on the O.D of the seal. I'm kicking myself for not going to my local bearing supplier and getting an NOK seal which has bonded seal material on O.D of seal. They don't score up the seal bore when installed and seal tight to the case.
Funny request, my friend just had to replace the entire top end on his 24 YZ 250 with zero time on it. Spent like 43 days at the dealer. All the coolant was dumped into the bed of his pickup on the way home from the dealer.
You say this is very noticeable for the 250sx? I want just a bit more pop right off the bottom. I have a TSP order through Southbay but I got an email saying “no longer than 4 week delay” :(. TSP is claiming very noticeable extra smooth power to help with clutch pops off the bottom etc. If you feels yours does the same I might tell Southbay to cancel and refund. I didn’t like dealing with TSP when I was using my ERM device on my TE150i. Whenever possible I’d also like to deal with US makers anyway.
The internal size of this one, and that one are he same, even though the shapes are different. This means they will have the same result. So for half the price you can have in a few days and will have the same result. I have to say though, that the reed strips we have, are a $ 200 improvement for only $20. So get both and that's a good gain for less than $100
@@davidbeauvais1364 The reed strips and reeds are different parts. The strips replace the stock plastic reed stops and let the reeds open easier for better bottom and mid. But yes, reeds wear faster than people think. People change tires all the time and even top ends, but never reeds.
I know the 300s have the edge In tight and hard enduro..but i have my yzx and 300hrs on it..sure I have done 2 top ends .and even 1 bottom end at 300 hrs though it was still tight ! Just thought it was a good idea..have it jetted well and that MF rips! I have never had any problems othere than normal wear on my yz ..that's why the yz 250 is the goat of all 2s!..yz 300 with the mods you said would be a ktm killer
I bought the';24 300 xcw in february, so far: The factory chain guide bent, and held the bent shape, which ruined the chain and sprocket The chain adjustment marks in the axle blocks are not in alignment with each other, resulting in a crooked rear wheel if you use them A footpeg snapped in half from just looking at a rock The start switch connector intermittently stopped working after 4 hours If you loop the bike out (which happens to us all from time to time) KTM has engineered it to not only break the rear fender, which is expected, but the seat is also destroyed as the last 3 inches is folded upwards to the point that it breaks I have nothing but anxiety when taking this bike in the bush knowing that sooner before later it will leave me stranded.
I gotta say there are a few that bark the loudest. Unfortunately those few that do bark, out weigh the dozens with great feed back and happy. That being said, having 117 abused, raced hours on my 24 xcw bought middle of 23 has been phenomenal. But my experience gets over rode by the few with negative thoughts and a platform of viewers. And then bad information is disseminating down worse than the telephone game.
Cool video ya got 191 exhaust 130 tranfurs with 30.5 of bld @ 23% bigger the wheel the more accurate your port timings. Simple video good job. If your cyl was a 191 ehust and 128 tranfurs your bld% would be @ 24% just sayin
On the power stroke in a 2-stroke, the force is against the rear cylinder wall. On case-reed cylinders there is much piston support, on cylinder-reed or piston port cylinders it get to be much less. In the cylinders I machine, the intake side is often worn much more, right where the ring gaps are too. The exhaust port side is where piston support is on the compression stroke - far less rod force than the power stroke. Snowmobiles with engine rotation reverse "gear" have a very low rev limiter in "reverse" because the power stroke force is transferred to the exhaust side during this mode. Maybe a correction video is a good idea.
Always like the content, testing, testing ,testing, that is how you gain true knowledge on what works and what doesn't. Sorry to hear about the family farm, my parents had a farm in the lower east corner of South Dakota next to Iowa. They moved from there in the late 50's after a tornado dropped the neighboring farms barn in their field.
Thanks. You hear all the worldly devastation all the time but pay it no mind, because it doesn't affect you. Now I have major empathy for everyone who's getting hit with all these disasters
Love the core content, but not much for the intro non-bike related details. Lower compression = higher top end? Sounds right since higher compression gives more bottom end.
I had my 24 tx300 idling and reached in to adjust increase the idle and I ever so slightly bumped the pressure sensor and the bike increased in idle for just a split second... thought that was wired... I'll be checking for leaks now
