LIFE LOVES LIVING This channel is about life, the love of living it and the help that one needs at times in order to live it. I hope to be that help to you, viewer, through this channel by reviewing, inspiring, doing and generally be informative.
This is a repost of a comment reply below. Figured I'd post it under the main post for all to read and argue. I've got a LOT of Coleman stoves and worked on hundreds more of them. I don't believe there's a whisker's difference between a "Dual Fuel" and these. They made the generators a little different, but not much. So little, in fact, that I came to the conclusion long ago that "Dual Fuel" stoves were simply a marketing gimmick to sell more stoves to an already saturated market. I mean just about EVERYONE had a Coleman stove when I grew up. And they will last forever with little maintenance. ALL the original Coleman stoves ran on auto fuel. Some even came with a siphon pump to get fuel from you gas tank. THEN..... I believe, but cannot prove, that one of two things happened, perhaps both. 1. Engines were getting higher in performance and gasoline formulations had to up their game to keep them running right with anti-knock compounds, lead and other additives that weren't so good in lanterns and stoves which created a lot of issues. And/or 2. Coleman saw a marketing bonanza in selling their own brand of "specially made" fuel for their products to keep them running at their best. Regardless of what the real reason was, they sold a lot of both new Dual Fuel stoves and lanterns AND fuel. I see Coleman fuel less and less at higher and higher prices. I get it when I find it cheap. In my experience, there isn't much difference if you use ethanol free unleaded and store them with the tank dry. Pump gas simply goes bad over time. White gas, on the other hand, will store pretty much indefinitely in the metal can. Not so much in the plastic bottles. I got a full case of "Coleman Premium Fuel" on sale at a crazy bargain price in the plastic quart bottles and put the case on the shelf. A couple of years later, I was out of fuel and got that case down. It felt empty. EVERY SINGLE BOTTLE was bone dry. The cap seals were still intact. Not such a good deal after all. HAHA! The main issue with pump gas, in my opinion, is the smell. Pump gas stinks. And it stinks long after it's evaporated. That lingering smell from even a small spill is a big turnoff for me. Your mileage may vary. My personal take is that if you are camping for extended periods and running through a lot of fuel, use ethanol free unleaded and be very careful not to spill any of it. If you don't use them much, use camping fuel/white gas/naphtha. If you DO use pump gas, it's critical to store them dry or with camp fuel in them to avoid varnishing in the tank. My long winded 2 cents. Have a super week!
Unleaded burns fine. Try to find ethanol free, if possible. The lower the octane, the better. Less additives. I make no claims that it's food safe. Only that it burns fine. You MAY see more deposits in the generator but not significantly so. If you only use them occasionally, just go with Coleman Fuel or other camping fuel. It is very stable in storage. Pump gas is not. If you run them a lot, regular ethanol free unleaded makes sense. If you burn a gallon/year is it really worth the nasty, lingering gasoline smell when you spill some for a few dollars saved? And the additional attention to cleaning the tank before long term storage? Probably not. FYI the engineers at Coleman made up a lighting procedure for these. They had the wisdom to have it printed on the stove lid right in front of you. Try it. Follow it exactly. You can add more pumps if you like, just don't use less. If memory serves, it probably tells you to add more pumps as soon as it lights. Minimal flare ups, if any, when you follow the instructions on the lid. DO NOT "test" it by opening the valve without lighting it. THIS FLOODS THE GENERATOR and makes for big yellow flames. BAD IDEA! DON'T DO THIS! Here is a link to the manual: www.oldtowncoleman.com/manuals/413g.pdf Credit to Frank Bebb at Old Town Coleman. To light: Give it 50 full pumps. Lighting lever up. Aux burner off. Hold LIT lighter or match to main burner BEFORE you.... Open valve ALL THE WAY. Stove will light immediately. Add more pumps. Turn lighing lever down after one minute. Though it usually won't take that long. Bingo! No big yellow flames. Ready to cook in one minute or less. Try it, you'll like the results. To shut down: Turn the lighting lever up Let it burn for one minute to induce air and purge most of the liquid fuel from the generator. You should see the flame change to a darker blue and jump slightly off the burner and pulse a bit. Close valve Let cool before closing or packing.
Im looking for a watch where other people can track me while running. For example obstacle runs. Does this watch make that possible? Also, you know anything about the accuracy of hr monitor on this device?
You may want to check the Fish and Wildlife regulations. If memory serves (I could be wrong), "traps" are NOT allowed South of Point Conception for catching crabs. Only hoop nets. They are allowed north of Point Conception. If I saw correctly, there was opening at the top of the trap. If so, it may be acceptable.
