We are simply a couple of good friends with a common passion for firearms and the outdoors. We would like to share our hobbies with friends with similar interests. We would also like to invite people that have never had the opportunity to participate in many of the passions we hold so near to our hearts to join us in our journey.
At this channel it is all about having a good time and getting to know some like minded people all around the world. We will treat people with kindness and respect and hope our viewers will do the same.
Feel free to check out the channel. If you have any questions or comments feel free to share those with us.
I didn’t have the wire so I use a coat hanger and it actually work! Thanks for the video. I had 2 brand new batteries out a set do the same thing. I’m glad could get them working again! 👍👍👍
I tried this probably six months ago. Not sure what I did wrong because it killed my 8ah battery. I now have a dead 12ah, 8ah, and two 6ah batteries that are all paperweights. Seeing all the positive responses makes me think I did something wrong but I did a similar process to your video. Used 12 gauge wire and the wire got extremely hot, extremely quick.
Thank you, this sort of worked. My dead battery (which the indicator showed zero bar) when place in the charger, flashed red/green. Then I tied your trick with a good battery (neg to Neg / Pos to Pos) and when I put the bad battery in the charger it went direct to Green. So it did make a difference. I left it on the charger for about an hour or more, it still stayed on green. On the battery itself, the indicator only showed one bar and was flashing red. Another hour, charger is still green and the battery indicator is still showing a single bar, flashing red. Any suggestions or thoughts?
If the EA15K09 fits on there, as does the EA15K53, then the EA15K51which is sized right between them will also work if the EA15K09 is too large for your application. This cross references to a Purolator Boss/ Purolator One 10241. Another good oil option is the Amsoil Premium Protection 10W-40. It also gives you a good dose of ZDDP needed by small engines without catalysts and has a slightly higher total base number.
I guess, ultimately, it depends on your particular grill. On my current grill (Weber Genesis), there are sheets of stainless steel bent at a 90 covering the direct flames, and there are things I do and don't like about that. I like having exposed flame for certain types of grilling. That said, I've never had much of an issue with flare ups when grilling fish no matter the marinade or grill. And though I cannot totally escape aluminum in cooking, primarily aluminum foil, I do use it sparingly, and I'd say it'd be just fine if you preferred it, though I do not think it'd be necessary. Some of the best salmon I have ever had in my life was prepared by an old friend, and he foil wrapped or tented it with fresh lemon, olive oil, herbs and spices, man, it was amazing!
guy installed it and removed it in 3..it took me i think 8 hours or so yesterday and still neither are installed.. i know 100% they're the correct shocks. i don't know what to do. just hopeless. can't believe it. no words
wish it was that easy. my new shocks aren't long enough or i have no idea what the problem.. tried jacking the control arm . doesn't seem right.. just insane really
Thanks for sharing! Just bought mine - used it this past weekend at my cabin. Mine came with the stock jet and 2 additional jets depending on altitude. I changed out the stock jet and installed the 3000 - 5000 . Seemed to run & work great. My only issue is the carb fuel bowl leaked around the edging(not at the mounting or drain screw ) It appears that thin black round gasket (you vid did not show it?) can be tricky to re-install. Since its brand new, I re-used it when I changed the jet. After starting it for the first time gas was dripping from that cover. I then put another gasket (that came with the jet) and tried it again. No leaks until I stopped it after using it for awhile. There still was a bit of gas on my finger when I ran it around the edge. Decided to drain it and let it sit till next time. In the mean time I have a call into HF service for some explanation or fix. See how long that takes and the remedy.
I have a 1.5 AH M18. Used it once in an LED lamp. Perhaps I left the lamp on, perhaps not, but the battery was dead. Tried to charge it in the Milwaukee charger. Two chargers the same symptom, flashing red and green. I have an electronics lab bench supply. Connected the supply to the battery as in the video. Turned the current limit all the way down, and cranked the voltage up to maybe 12V, then cranked the current up to 1A. As the battery charged, the current went down, so I gradually turned up the voltage in steps until I got to 18V. At 18 volts, I let it charge until the current started dropping below 1A at 18V. Took only about 5 minutes. Disconnected the supply and plugged the battery into the charger. Now is charging OK. Up to 2 bars. Just completed charge.
Hello, i have a Milwaukee charger that flashes red, i tried jumping but it didn’t work. Red flashing means outside charging temperature, i left it over night and that didn’t work. It's an expensive 12amp and to say im pissed is an understatement. Whats the issue can anyone reading this shed some light if battery can be fixed or is it toast?????
I heard this trick of an adding a small charge manually also works for enabling charging of a really dead automobile battery with one of those portable lithium battery jump starters they won’t operate with a battery that is too far gone. However, doing this trick to fool a smart charger into charging a dead or defective battery can lead to overheating, swelling, and possibly fire/explosion. One of the cells in series in the pack may have gone bad so forcibly charging it could have undesirable consequences. The safety features are put there for a reason.
I have a brand new M12/M18 charger, model 48-59-1812, that seems to charger the batteries OK, but the area above the port for the M18 gets so hot that you can smell melting plastic. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, was there a way to correct it other than sending it to Milwaukee for evaluation?
If it's brand new it would for sure be under warranty. If it's getting that hot, I'd recommend not using it and contacting them, I'm sure they'd gladly get you another charger out to you, you certainly don't want to burn your house down! To answer your question, I have never experienced the situation you are.
I made mine with about a foot of speaker wire and crimped on 4 spade connectors. If you don't have any wire laying around, Radio Shack, if they even still exist, would have some wire, or a car stereo shop would probably have some. They may even throw you a jumper together if they were cool if you asked them...
Worked on mine - I have a variable power supply - put in 18V 1A max, and in 20 seconds the voltage went up to 11V, with one blinking light on the battery pushbutton LED display. Plugged into the charger, and it worked great
Just started working at a heavy diesel repair shop. I noticed many chargers and batteries out of commission. Deap pockets just buy new batteries and chargers apparently. Thank you for the information.
M18 Red Lith XC5.0 I jad the same problem. Tried this and it worked. I only left the batteries connected for about 30 seconds. Thanks for the fix! Saved me from dealing with Milwaukee.
Milwaukee customer service is absolutely 💯 HORRIBLE. Either you pay to ship it in or you go back to the store you bought it from. A BRAND new battery! I will try this, thanks.
@@rvz77 I hate to hear that, especially with how much they are in love with their products! Their prices on that stuff are getting insane! I guess I'll be looking more into Harbor Freight stuff in the future, I hear it is getting pretty good, and hell, it's all made overseas anyway!