Over 40 years an industrial woodworker, machinist, designer, craftsman....we make stuff and we restore stuff. Consider joining us for the adventures...and please subscribe to the channel
This guy's name is Bill and if you didn't like the vid (which is one of my best performing, 135 new subscribers, 415 likes, 10,000 views) it is your propagative, just click away....and I would be fine with that. Tolls will be trolls.
Next time try showing the actual piece your working more than your face, absolutely no one is interested in listening to you, staring into the camera and talk
Thanks for watching and commenting. I have not. I know that it can be. I think if you go to the website the do offer some suggestions on using the various chems that they manufacture on aluminum and brass.
How do I get in contact to have this done to my 686? Also…. To be honest you didn’t show the part I most wanted to see…. How did you ensure the stock and comb were aligned before milling??
Well this worked 🙂 Not entirely sure I understand what you mean by aligned? Also, I have so much work right now that I'm not taking on anymore until I catch up.
The one thing I learned when it comes to using water on the stock is to be careful not to use too much water because it can turn white and the stain will not cover it. I found that out with my .300 mag rifle. I finally got some products that covered it up good and then the stain worked.
I’m debating stripping and refinishing a rifle stock and I’ve had it recommended to use just boiled linseed oil and no kind of stain etc but most of what I’ve seen online uses something of that nature. Will just the BLO give a decent look or do I need to use a stain of some sort first?
@@SixRoundsStudio U used a brass nail or stud when u glued the loose part on the stock behind the lock. That was the thing i refere to. And it is actually weaker than without the nail or stud. Also metal in wood is not a good thing since wood is moving acording to other prinsip than metal. So when it is warm the wood shrink while the metal expend and when it is cold metal chrink and the moist in the ait is higher - maybe rain and the wood expend. Also when the temperature is changing from cold to warmer the moist in the wood will condense to the metal causing small condense/moist marks and damanges. However I like to point out U did a nice job with the gun and I really liked to watch it
Wow, you did a great job, that gun is beautiful. I just took my 44 carbine out last weekend and popped off a few shots with it, I forgot how much fun that gun is. I've never seen one like mine anywhere else, it is stained darker than you normally see. And the forestock clamp and butt plate are sliver colored, not blued, yet the rest of the gun is blued. I know it is original, dad bought it that way brand new, I'm curious to know if you have ever seen one like that before. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching and commenting! Im afraid that combination of parts on an original 44 Carbine isn't ringing a bell for me...and I have seen a whole bunch of them. Would be interesting to learn the history of it for sure.
Hi Bill, thank you for the video and the shoutout. This is Rob over at Still River Gun Works. I have been using the techniques you have been sharing with me. I use Mark Lee rust blue and have great luck so far. I’m learning, that’s for sure. I’ve made mistakes and even fixed mistakes I thought I had..but the process works and the results look great. I’m planning on posting the results of my restorations on my website and Instagram account.
Mistakes are never a bad thing if made with intent. We always learn with each doing. Looking forward to seeing more of your work on the ole Insta. Thanks for supporting me and the channel Rob!!!!!
I don't recommend using WD-40 to nourish or treat wood stocks. Its purpose is for water displacement and to lubricate metal components. Use a wood wax (Howard's or Birchwood Casey are good) or a mineral oil that are designed for wood stocks.
Well.....someday we should talk. Everything you say about WD-40 is correct...and all of your suggestions for alternative cleaning, is good advice and safe. It is your use of the term to "nourish" and "treat" that is inconsistent with what I am doing. It is WD-40 as a lubricant and distillate that makes it such a good cleaner for finishes that are intact and in good condition.
@@SixRoundsStudio I realize people use WD-40 in unconventional ways but I wouldn't use it for cleaning wood. I would recommend an actual wood cleaner like Murphy's Oil Soap or just regular soap and water. WD-40 can be harsh on wood and will penetrate the wood pores and cause other softening issues with the wood stock.
Your march to 10,000 subscribers will happen quicker then you think if you keep putting out videos like this. I know I'll be referencing your videos once I start rebluing this winter
@SixRoundsStudio I've been watching your videos for a few months, lots and lots of great information. I've collected 2 or 3 old Cooeys that are in rough shape, perfect guns to learn on as there are a million of them here in Canada. Been watching some of Mark Novaks videos on repairing/refurbishing stocks.
Rust bluing is far superior in looks to modern DuLite or Hot Salts Bluing. Anyone who can polish metal, use steel wool and cotton patches can master rust blue.
Very nice indeed. Your attention to detail is wonderful to see. I have seen some so called gunsmith channels here in RU-vid and to say the least I watched in horror what butcher's some of these guys are. You show true professionalism. I just purchased a Stevens Favorite in the .25 rimfire caliber. Full octagon barrel and all there. The only drawback is it is somewhat pitted.
Thank you very much! Been at this in one way or another most of my life. You learn stuff and I am pleased to share it back. Unless abused or poorly cared for, most pitting is not very deep and will come out with light draw filing. If the gun is all there and works...sometimes the "patina" and the story is better than the restoration.
Used small medicine bottles help store small sub assembly parts in projects like this. I just purchased a Stevens Favorite in .25 rimfire. Since it is quite pitted I am debating whether or not to reline the barrel for .22 caliber.
Yeah...my dad and uncle always used old medicine bottles (two of the finest old school gunsmiths I knew). If you can get the ammo, and if it shoots well, and if the pitting isnt too terribly deep, then it can be restored.
Just did 6 sxs shotguns with mark lee express. Very easy to use. 3 passes was all we did on most. I did a 4th on one or 2 but I don’t think it did much. If the solution won’t rust the metal, it’s pretty much as good as it gets. I like all your videos. Love the restoration. Thanks
Most of those rifles have a sewer pipe bore. Chlorate priming and kids using them. Many people back then where illiterate and didn't understand the importance of cleaning the barrel.
I've also been using Mark Lee's rust bluing and it is great. I agree 3 passes usually gets you to full color but I have normally been doing 5 just to get to uniform color. I will say on Winchester nickel steel, I've had trouble sometimes getting it to full color and have done 6-10 times to get to full uniform color. I do prefer the old rust bluing look.
Yes...I mentioned in the video that some steel alloys can be difficult. It was the Winchesters that I was referencing. Thanks for being here, watching, and commenting!
Carefully 😉 I put some marking compound on the top of the pins and then lowered the little piece down on to the pins. The holes in the broken piece were drilled slightly larger than the pins so that when I applied the epoxy I had some adjustment to fit.
