I don’t understand why you talk about when the rest comes up when that doesn’t matter At all. The ONLY thing that matters is when it drops away. It can be up in the up position before you even draw.
This is by far the best most in depth d-loop video I've seen. And I'm ordering that wedge. Would love to see you do a video talking about how to learn yardage judging
Yes, the speed of the arrow is important for the timing to the get the arrow it's position in the gliding position in flight, my big question, do I use my pocket change to build my own hooter shooter or spend $2500/3000 for the over priced, this company that owns the hooter shooter doesn't have right to price gouge anyone, their being greedy
Limb driven rest 1. Find power stroke of draw (mark arrow where it contacts the rest at rest and mark where the arrow is on the rest at full draw) 2. Measure distance btw 2 marrks on arrow and divide by 2( 50 percent of power stroke) 3. Measure from that midpt to the full draw mark and divide by 2. This gives you 75 percent of power stroke. 4. I use painters tape to tape from the 50 mark to the 75 mark to see easier 5. You want the arrow rest to be fully in up position in the 50-70 range. 6. Adjust cord attached to limb closer or further from limb tip to time correctly
Great vid. It’s super important to experiment with this stuff. All rests have there own idiosyncrasies on different bows. Eg on my elite enlist my hamskea primer gives perfect straight nock travel but is much harder to tune out right tears. My QAD on the same bow though gives nock low travel so the arrow has to run downhill through the Berger holes but right/left tears are a non issue. I’d be interested to know how QAD’s can be set to delay their super fast drop away.
For me, the target launcher is longer so I can change out the “Up Stop” screw and lower the angle of the launcher blade, while maintaining the same arrow height when full upright. A lower blade angle will enable more leverage against the “Full Upright” spring, arguably being a little more forgiving if the arrow where to hit it during launch. Is it a significant difference? No…
Mike this a great video that explains so much more than you can ever know!! I wished many more pros would share their knowledge like you do!! I appreciate it coach!! Btw, you’re looking good buddy!! 👊🏽
Great info Mike. I know there are many great string companies out there, but I only had one ask what nock I used, before they built my set. Something I thought was pretty beneficial that went along with the info you shared.
That would explain why my Citation came out at 40.5 ATA and not 40... That begs the question, shouldn't PSE know better? I actually think the LiveWires are amongst the better factory strings in the current era. I would imagine they would be extremely good if they went to a more conventional twist direction.
@@michaelbraden6000 By using a draw board to measure and by doing some group tuning, I think supporting the arrow for the first 7 inches has been giving me a bit more forgiveness. Thanks for advice.
Thank you for your videos they are very informative I have greatly enjoyed them. I have always run a cable operated rest on hunting bows.…but I will be putting a hamskea Trinity on my trx 38 soon and I noticed you run your hamskea cord to the top limb. Can you explain why the top limb is different/better than bottom limb?
With regards to the function of the rest, it does not matter wether you choose the top limb or the bottom limb. So, it becomes your preference or which direction creates less potential obstruction for the lift cord. For my target bow I use V-Bars and the lift cord could hang on the bracket or the end collar of that back bar, and how I set up for my shot, I put release hand in that area when I put my bow hand in my wrist strap that’s attached to the bow. I have needed to cut the end of the extension bar of my target sights to make sure they would not interfere with the function of the lift cord. So I feel going to the top limb is better for me.
Thanks for the detailed video. I recently bought a new Bowtech bow and put a Vapor Trails limb-driven rest on it and I have been struggling to get the rest set up properly. Unfortunately I bought the bow in Colorado where I had great archery shops to chose from but now I live in southern Virginia where there aren't as many trustworthy shops nearby. Videos like yours help me greatly. Thank you.
I have 3 VaporTrail limb driven drop aways and where on the limb you attach the cable makes all the difference. On an extreme parallel limb bow (like a Mathews TRX) you can have the cable all the way to the axle as it moves very little. On a more upright limb I usually start around where the perimeter of the cam intersects the limb plane. That was explained to me by "Ears", a VaporTrail employee and expert. If the rest blade stays up too long move the cable towards the axle, if it's dropping away too quickly, move away from the axle. I've been on the podium many times in Target, Field, and 3D events, all with VaporTrail rests. I would be happy to send you pictures of different setups if you think that might help.
After watching this video I purchased the Loop Wedge. Very happy I did. This is a cheap investment for you to add to your archery tools! Having the ability to create consistent D-Loops and replace D-Loops is a time and money saver!
Do the same test with a 600gr. The results are far more dramatic. If you are shooting a TAC event and trying to reach 120yds you might need all the up time you can get so your arrow will clear the scope. The distance of drop is far more dramatic when you compare a fall away against a fixed rest. I shot a 427 grain arrow at 270fps off a Bodoodle Zapper, then installed a QAD HDX and the arrow dropped 3 inches. I have also noticed you can run into tuning problems with minimal up time. Great video, sadly this doesn’t get shown or seen enough. Every time i see a Hamskea tied to the saddle of a split yoke bus cable on a Mathews or PSE I shake my head.
@@brandonnguyen3442 Slow motion video has shown the violent movement of the cables can cause the rest launcher to rebound and contact the fletching. Testing was done by Lancaster Archery.
Blade arrow rests are the best for pinpoint accuracy, a properly installed and tuned blade rest does not contact the fletchings of the arrow. They probably don't work well with 4 fletchings, but 3 is perfect. Thats why they are the most popular rest used in target where millimeters count on where you hit that target. The problem is that they don't contain the arrow, and the arrow can easily fall off the rest, especially when you draw the bow. This makes it unsuitable for hunting. And that's where drop away rests shine. They can give the best flight off the rest without contacting the fletching, but they are way harder and finicky to set up and tune, plus the addition of moving parts. But being full containment rest, makes them very well suited for hunting and that's where you see them used the most.
