Surprisingly solid looking deck. Respect the direct drive. Is it a quartz lock system? Or just basic direct drive? Not seeing any Dolby buttons on there, lol. Does it use an alternate noise reduction system, like Dynamic Noise reduction or something similar?
Whole this isn't exactly what one would call top hi-fi, and never mind using a surround from another speaker, was it really that to find another new surround for it? Even something which fit the cone diameter, but has to be trimmed down tonfit the basket? Now personally, I like the what looks like a die cast basket, I'd just try to replace the cone and voice coil with something better. Otherwise, still a clever repair.
Small speaker from iPad the sound is quite smoother deep bass and perfectly slam of sound with warm sound but no muddies of bass but good for DIY small speaker box to amplify the sound when connected from cheap amplifier with Bluetooth,USB,FM Radio and AUX input for wired devices and its impressive sounding with original audio output from iPad.
Hello, I have a question about the added spatial sound effect button. I saw that you have facelift version of the buttons line. I have e46 1999 and I have the whole button but dont know where all the wires go. Can you help me with that please? Thank you so much. Kaufi
Great video👍👍👍. Couldn't find any appreciable difference excepting that the Russian one appeared to be a more detailed with some airy treble. Would like to see a video as to how you connected the resistance and capacitance with the BUM cartridge.
I took 2 Chinese models, it seems that the heads are all the same, just change the cover, BUM 1M AND STYLUS (ortofom copy) needs 12 hours of operation to start working, Stylus the more weight the more bass it produced with 3.2g, BUM 1 catilever was too deep Leaning against the magnet wall, I removed the rubber and adjusted it. the sound was pleasant
Mine doesn't have a serial number, though that could be a fake one but no it's original made in Australia. We're can I find the number that on mine is not in the back?
In my case the BUM M1 has better treble quality, and very good bass, even good sub bass. But...for some strange reason the BUM M1 captures the magnetic field of the power transformer of the Marantz SintoAmplifier, I changed the head for another one with an AT-95e set and then for another AT-3600 and the hum disappears. I reinstall the head with BUM M1 and move the tray from the rack mount to another base, about 50 CM (20 Inches) away and then the hum disappears. Has anyone had a similar experience?
the output signal of the AT-95e and AT-3600 is 3.5mV, the BUM M1 is 5.5mV. I had a problem when connecting the equalizer to the bass frequencies, I noticed the catilever had been mounted wrong on the rubber, the rear part should have been touching the magnet, I pulled it the catilever a little and everything was fine
En mi caso la BUM M1 tiene mejor calidad de agudos, y muy buenos bajos, incluso buenos sub bajos. Pero...por algun raro motivo la BUM M1 capta el campo magnetico del transformador de poder del Sinto Amplificador Marantz, cambio el cabezal por otro con un conjunto AT-95e y luego por otro AT-3600 y el zumbido desaparece. Vuelvo a instalar el cabezal con BUM M1 y muevo la bandeja desde el montaje en rack hacia otra base, a unos 50 CM (20 Inches) y entonces el zumbido desaparece. Alguien tuvo una experiencia similar?
uso excel QD700 mutcho bene, substitui por l BUM M1 una experiencia foi 14hs para mesmo produzir qualidade muito boa no Graves e medios , verifica ajuste do SRT e VTA
thank you, your video is really informative. i like how you have more technical data and comparisons, but also your own anecdote. i was worried that the difference would be staggering, but after hearing your thoughts im at ease
Mostly indistinguishable to me. Why waste time on adding resistors to a faulty POS stylus/cartridge? Just throw it in the trash. AT 95e and AT-3600 win because of consistent construction.
Послушал сравнение на колонках с неравномерностью +/-2,5дб. Что тут сказать, надо радоваться той игле, что уже имеешь, а менять "шило на мыло" я бы не стал, разница не "вырви глаз" какая. Главное, что не вытекшая ГЗКУ))) У старых ГЗМ-ок часто пересыхает единственная резиночка-иглодержатель, от чего АЧХ начинает плыть, но им и лет-то сколько! Заточка ГЗМ-ок другая, это известно, зато такая заточка менее требовательная к тонарму, а он в СССР бывал укороченный (2ЭПУ65СМ).
Excellent video, one of the best I've seen on RU-vid. I'll be going into my HK 7.1 speakers in the near future so I ordered up a frequency generating cable for my phone and the proper glues for doing the job. I loved the sound when I got the car but it has degraded over time. New speakers are unobtanium so repair is the way to go, and, to be honest, it's probably preferred. In my research I found that if you made a 3.5mm adapter cable for your phone, and put out a 50Hz continuous tone, you can adjust the spider when you are gluing it so that the voice coil does not rub. This seems to be preferred over shimming and looks easier. There's a video on that here => ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NpMYZq-qQNo.html I haven't done the job yet but your video will help a great deal. Thank you for making it !!
Cool video! - did you have to change the head unit with some "special" business CD which has additional pins for Harman/Kardon, or any BMW business CD will do the job?
Странно что этот динамик выпустил завод "Динамик"Гагарин. Их же выпускал Рязанский радиозавод. А как ход вообще? И центр шайба сильно жёсткая ли. Думал такие динамики заказать.
