My rca came with a black wire , 7:20 yellow wire, white wire and white and black wire wire ,gray , gray and black wire help please ..! 2011 LTZ Tahoe metra converter
Thank u sir vary much my wife wanted us to keep the screen after I ordered everything but oh well I'm going to make us both happy by keeping the screen
Would this work for, non-navigation Bose systems? I have a 09 Silverado, I’m also trying to figure out how to install an equalizer, like SKA7EQ from skar, with the stock unit.
So I hooked up my system and everything seems to work fine. Thanks for your video. Just one question...why do I have static using FM radio but not when my phone is hooked up. Please help! Ty in advance.
I'm a little lost trying to help a friend add a subwoofer in an avalanche with bose 2009. I'm wondering if this will work but if you could help me out somehow which wire from that db link goes to what. Sorry I'm just confused with it I'm used to old school cars super easy lol.
Dude you didn’t explain where the yellow wire goes or the ground wire I’m still confused where they goes because you didn’t even explain it. Useless video
To anyone watching this.. LLJ customs makes harnesses of all kinds for bose systems and anc bypass check them out they wouldn't be allowed to sell them if they didnt work
Tryd to add a amp/sub to factory Bose sound system and the rear speakers won’t work when the amp is turned on but when the amp has no power going to it all the speakers work like before. I used a kicker line output converter, I tied both the left and right wires on the line output converter into each other then tapped into the light green and dark green wires that Is located under the trey on the center console on the left side of the plug which I believe is before the factory Bose amp that’s what I used for my speaker signals then I tapped into the light pink wire on the same harness that I used as my remote turn on. Anyone have any suggestions on how to make my sub and amp work with the factory Bose system.
I just got me a 2013 Tahoe LTZ going to take my amp out of other car, it's a Orion HCCA 3000.1 watts. Also my subwoofer box is big 44 inch by 20 inch two subwoofers Skar zvx 12 wish me luck 😆
You do need the remote power ON from your key/accessory to turn on the amp. I tapped into the dull pink wire. Of course you are still running a red power cable from the battery to the amp and your ground cable. That isn’t covered in the video.
Hey, I have a 2011 Yukon Xl, and I followed your install exactly. the bass output was not good at all, and I read online that the LOC i used doesn’t output Fq lower than 40hz. So my subwoofers aren’t hitting the low frequencies like they would if I used an aftermarket radio. Do you think it would help to buy a better LOC, like the one from audio control? or would the bose system just make it still not sound good? if you have any thoughts please reply, and thanks so much for the information, like what wires to tap into!
I would say that if you do keep Bose, then it will max out overall volume at a certain point. The LOC may be the issue with frequencies, but I am not sure as I don’t handle professional installs. It works as intended for me. It may also be your amp settings.
DB Link HLC3 High/Low Converter www.amazon.com/dp/B001NCDAXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Qe3QBbYZsTo4e It was only about 6 bucks when I got it, but it’s still out there.
I was getting all that conflicting evidence too, but turns out on my 2010 Avalanche LTZ, the head unit actually has LOW level outputs so I don't see a point in installing a hi lo converter on a line that's already low. Gonna try tapping my 2ch LOC to those 4 green and blue sub wires. My powered sub's high level input requires right and left signal, so it seemed like it makes more sense than just tapping a single side. I know there's tons and tons of conflicting evidence for these monstrous sound systems and that method seemed like the most common. Will reply after finished and tell whether or not my gamble works.
Okay well it worked. I have a 2010 Avalanche LTZ with Bose and I was installing a powered sub from Rockville. I tapped all 4 subwoofer wires, the ones before it enters the small clip. L+ DrkBlu/Wh L- LtGrn/Bl R+ DrkGrn R- LtBlu/Bl I used the Axxess 80w 2 channel LOC with the remote turn on capability. Mounted in cup holder compartment. Used taps for the audio signal, grounded the LOC on the same spot as the amplifier ground, and received constant 12v from the RIGHT junction box, passenger side, I used the red and white wire on the harness second from the top, 1st row, 4th wire. I would go into the rest, but I think it's easy enough to figure out all the rest of the wiring, it's just that damn audio signal and where to tap that seems to screw people up and give tons of different information. Who knows, maybe it's due to the many different options. For the sake of whoever is reading this, I have the UQA rpo sound system with rear DVD, onstar, nav, all the LTZ stuff. It should be mentioned that I have my amp filtered to a very low pass as I am only using it to fill in the bass on what is otherwise a nice system. I would caution against using the subwoofer tap if you plan to use the amp for speakers. Good luck everyone!
