Fishing is a Passion, this channel will show you repairs and useful stuff to do on the boat Also will have short fishing episode, hope you enjoy. please subscribe for notification Thank you
Hi Stevekemer, thanks for watching. For testing purpose, yes you can. Your yellow wire is the one that keeps all your pre-set. If you cut power to yellow, you will lose your pre-sets and the radio will load as default every time.
Hi rorschach, thanks for watching. Often both batteries will be different. One will be a starter battery and the other a deep cycle battery. They will have different specifications and that is not alway good for chargeur and batteries. If they are identical batteries then there’s no problem. Hope this helps 👍
@joetheboatguy5394 thank you joe! that is very helpful! And when the engine is off... should I keep it on both? Or will that discharge my starter battery?
That is correct you might discharge your starter battery quicker. Your starter battery is meant to give higher amperage quick (for cranking engine). Deep cycle is designed to give you less quick amperage but last longer. Hope this helps.
Hi johnmurphy, thanks for watching , that’s a very dangerous switch. I warned you don’t touch it 😂 just kidding. That’s the kill switch for the engine 👍
@@joetheboatguy5394 does it attach to a lanyard? (My buddy has one he is thinking of buying. I’m trying to figure the little stuff out for him). I’m assuming there’s a clip that flips the switch down if it’s yanked on?
I’m sure there’s a way to attach to lanyard. I don’t use it since I have a steering wheel and hand throttle so my kill switch is on my hand throttle . But something like this would surely work Boat Outboard Emergency Stop Kill Switch Key Set with Lanyard for Johnson, Evinrude, Yamaha Universal (Red) on amazon
I wish there wasn't so many different wiring color standards for the 7 Pin trailer hookups. Red, brown, green, yellow all mixed up based on standard. Then some use red or black for Aux.
Could you show me WOT on your engine to see how far round the black plastic piece goes as mine seems to have a load more room to move when WOT - the part just above the throttle linkage
Hi NickW0771, Thanks for watching. The round the black plastic has 2 white lines that should be aligned with the carburetor pin when in Idle. When I’m at full throttle my carburetor pin is at ¾ of the round the black plastic so aligned accelerator stem (look at video at 38sec, the stem I’m pointing at). Let me know if this helps 😊
Hey - you cant tell me or show me in the engine how to get WOT to fully adjust the pulley inside to get max rpm please? When i push throttle fully forward everything moves correctly but there is still some more play in the black plastic thing
Hi NickW0771, Thanks for watching. The round the black plastic has 2 white lines that should be aligned with the carburetor pin when in Idle. When I’m at full throttle my carburetor pin is at ¾ of the round the black plastic so aligned accelerator stem. Let me know if this helps 😊
Hi and thank you for the clear videos I have a question : I also have a battery switch (1/2/Both/off), does it stay on Both continuously now ? Can I keep the solar system connected to the House battery, as the manufacturer Renogy said it only charges one battery.
Hi Pascale, thanks for watching. If I understand, you have a battery switch and a VSR? You can have the solar pannel plugged on the deep cycle battery and will end up charging your startup battery once your deep cycle is full when switch is set on Both "if you have VSR". I don't see your setup so I am going with what I understand. Let me know if this helps :)
@@joetheboatguy5394 thanks Yes I have a solar system connected to the House battery, and unfortunately my 12 v fridge drained the battery connected to the motor ! I think I had mixed up choosing the right battery on the selector… I want to install a Voltage Selector and I am trying to figure out how. It is called DeWinner Smart Battery Isolator
You would have to create a drop box and give me access to it. I know youtube wont let you and I can't really give my e-mail I did that mistake once LOL I got flooded with questions LOL
I have a question, my car by default came like this: Red wire is constant 12V, Yellow is ignition, Black Ground, i have checked it with the multimeter. Unfortunately while dissasembling i touched bare Red Wire( constant 12V) to the chasis of the radio, it made a spark and a fuse blew out. I've chose proper fuse and replaced it, checked fuse on the radio, checked all the fuses in my car fuse box and they are all fine. I have checked if I have power going into my radio. Yes i have power, both constant, and Acc (ignition) but it wont turn on. Ive tried with different radio that im 99% sure it works but still nothing, i dunno. Evrything else in the car work except radio. Any thoughts? Thanks
Hi HeroClaws, thanks for watching. Ok I don’t see your set up so I’m going with what I read. Make sure your radio is well grounded also some older radio would use the radio chassis for ground. So if it’s the case make sure your radio frame (metal) is grounded with car chassis. I’m just throwing ideas out there. Let me know 👍
I touched the chassis of my radio (with Constant 12V) while every other necessary wire was connected to my radio so yeah i'll try that, if that doesn't work i guess i must have burnt some connection with the GND pin of my radio and the rest GND of my radio, and I'll gonna need to get that GND connection back somehow. Good point. Im gonna try that in a couple of hours and gonna get back to you. Thanks!
Usually the fuse is supposed to blow before any wire is damaged. Unless smaller gauge wire was installed or weak connection to connector. A short can cause so much but I’m sure you will find it. 👍 if you have any suspicions on your radio, try plugins it on another battery. Independent, not in your car.
@@joetheboatguy5394 Yea i kinda guessed that, if i had shorted something, fuse would have blow. Haven't tried and i don't really have other car to test it. I have ATX power supply from my Computer that i've transformed into like 12V, 5V, 3V outputs, can i test it without the car somehow? Once again, thank you for your answers!
@@joetheboatguy5394 I found a way to test it outside, gonna use my ATX, join ACC and Const. 12V , hook them up to the positive 12V, and GND to GND or try the chassis. That i think should do the trick to see if it's my radio fault. What do u think?
I have brand new wires and lights exactly how your diagram shows and im only getting one (the passenger side light) working. Both side markers work but the nothing from the drivers side back light. Its not my truck because I tested on another vehicle and it was doing the same thing. I ordered new lights because I still had the warranty but its caused nothing but problems trying to crack the code on what is going on. Any suggestions?
Hi Erik-Vader-Veechee, thanks for watching, ok do you have a multimeter? First I want to make sure your yellow wire (driver side) is not cut anywhere. So at the light socket you should get 12v when you press your brake. So press on brake and verify if you get your 12v at the light sockets. When doing this test ground your multimeter directly to your white wire at the front of trailer (this is to eliminate in case of a bad ground). If you get your 12V then your ground for your light is not good. If you don’t see 12V then your wire is cut or shorted somewhere. You need to fallow your wire for verification. Often times it’s just a bad ground. Let me know 👍
@@joetheboatguy5394 so I don't have a multimeter although I think should by one but all my lights have their own individual ground and the plug has a ground wire at the tough of the trailer. I just bought a trailer plug that shows indicator lights on it and it'll be here tomorrow. I'm not sure if it's the ground because every other light is working but I'll go thru that next I suppose. Thanks
Ok just re-read your comment so I see you don’t even get the regular light to go on on your driver side. Your driver has the brown and yellow connected. And both don’t work so I definitely suspect the ground wire now on your driver side light. Make sure your ground is well connected (sometimes the paint on trailer can cause bad ground )👍
Are all your grounds connected straight on the frame or you have white wire going to every light? I think your problem is between your light box [driver side] and ground. Are your lights led or halogen? I ask because if they are halogen they have a spring system in the light socket that can sometimes cause an open circuit with ground. Just removing halogen build and replacing it can fix the issue. Of course make sure your build is not burned also…. But if it’s led forget all that. Sorry just shooting ideas 👍
@@joetheboatguy5394 yeah I noticed when I removed my bad lights I had lots of loctite on the bolt that it's screwed into. I'm going to check that problem you mentioned and see if it isn't grounded because of that possibility. Yes they are LED lights and connected to the boat frame where the lights screw in and on the frame on the tongue of the trailers frame.
Great video, but I’m still dead on all lights. I can confirm power over my green and yellow lights at the taillight (with a meter), but no lights. All new wiring and lights that were purchased together in a kit.
Hi offgridwhitetails, thanks for watching. You are right with old switch that are Break-Before-Make: A switch that is configured to break (open) the first set of contacts before engaging (closing) the new contacts. This prevents the momentary connection of the old and new signal paths. Almost all new switches are make before break” transfer, in that the transfer switch makes a connection to the new power source before breaking its connection to the old one. I always recommend to use make before break switch in my channel 👍 I also mention this in the description of the video.
I have completed the wiring except the ignition switch. My question is : the wire from ignition going directly to fuse panel, my switch has an "A" which has a purple wire , do I just add a wire off "A" to fuse panel with purple wire attached to switch also?
Hi, ok for the key wiring. You have 3 position. One is the off, You bring your 12v from battery to it. The other position is Ignition, that is the one that will go to feed your fuse box. Don’t forget, if you have lots of amps going to your equipment you will need the right gauge wire. And the 3 position is the wire “usually purple” from engine to start engine. Lets me know if it’s clear 👍
Thank you, Joe! I will let you know, rain here for a while. Your video is very informative! Thank you for getting back to me. This woman is getting it!😅 one thing I did do was attach fuse boxes to a plastic cutting board and layed it all out before transferring to the boat. Very helpful that way for me!
Help please! I have rewired my boat following part one, great help by the way. However, I am on part 2, wiring relay, my5 pin relay has 85 as ground (blk wire) and 86 as pos.(white). Confused because your saying 85 to positive of fuse box.
Hi reneehicks, thanks for watching and please don't forget to subscribe :) It could be ether or. If 85 is positive then 86 is ground. if 85 is ground then 86 will be positive. hope this help.
Hi akashramcharan, thanks for watching, I would try to order the same one as your car. Not make new hole. They are usually all the same size. Hope this helps 👍
Hi stalrev, thanks for watching, Float mode is where the battery voltage is maintained at approximately 13.5 volts for a 12V battery. So 13.5 volts will be higher then 12.8V so VSR would let voltage pass so should not be a problem :)
@@joetheboatguy5394 thanks, rewiring my pontoon dealer put a second battery on it for trolling motor and wired it straight to trolling motor and charger so im putting in a switch to utilize both batteries if needed.
Hi gottafly, thanks for watching. Yes absolutely you can add power on off switch. I’m try not to add too much, it would make it harder to understand. The diagram is the minimum, you can add so much more. 👍
Hi Joe, thank you for the video. I'm currently working on my 1992 25 hp an I noticed those "ears" on the rubber seal on the reed block. If you put on the gasket between the reed block and the engine block, those ears are between the seal and the reed block. I wonder what these are for, as they could compromise the function of the gasket. Are they supposed to fix the seal in position? Thanks for the help. Best regards from Germany!
Hello henningsea, thanks for watching. The ears you’re talking about are the ones with holes? If yes, then they will hold your reed in place. If it’s not that let me know 👍
@@joetheboatguy5394 Hi Joe, thanks for the reply, I just noticed it now. I'm talking about the rubber seal on the reed block, that separates the two cylinders. At 6:18 (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DUOkv5bBgKc.htmlsi=xVX8Allw8zWMnEhT&t=378) you are touching the seal. This seal has two lips, ears or however they can be called at the end. If you put the gasket on the reed block, those ears ar between the reed block and the paper gasket, possibly creating an air leak. I wonder if it is meant to be mounted like this. It is still reacting slightly if I spray a bit of brake cleaner on reed block area, but it could also be from beeing sucked in through the carburettor. Anyhow, my engine is back together and so far it's responding much better to adjustments of the idle mixture needle, but I still have to test it under load. Hopefully the missfireing at low rpm is gone now. Else I suspect the ignition charging coil, which could be costly...
Ok it’s the seal that separates the 2 pistons. That seal is there because while one piston is sucking air and fuel (so reed open). The other side need to be shut closed for combustion so (reed closed). So that seal separate the 2 pistons. Mine had a little groove for the ears so it was flat.
can i ask a stupid question ? why not use the VSR to switch power to the house when the start battery is charged rather than charge 2 at the same time ??
Hi LisaF, Thanks for watching. They are no stupid question ;) Some people prefer the old way, switch over the VRS, It’s a personal preference. I do have also the video for VSR check it out :) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7TinRz-H76k.htmlsi=8Q91PiH1c2Fw7lI2
It seems like the point where your idle speed control cable is preloadong where the swing arm bottoms out. Would you recommend this or just adjusting idle screw to preload
Thanks for this video, I'm late finding it. I have a broken upper locking pin lever, that I'm going to try and replace. I wasn't sure what all I had to remove.
Hi anghiggy, Thanks for watching. Unless your radio requires a fuse on yellow then you can put a fuse. The yellow wire is the one that will keep all your setting in the radio like your favorite radio stations and what ever can be saved. So yes, with an extreme long time it will drain your battery (we are talking months here). You if have a battery draining problem this would not be my first suspicion. Hope this helps :)
@@joetheboatguy5394 OK. Thanks, it was only a week, we thought it was a little strange, but it is the only thing we have changed. The battery stayed up all winter. Installed new radio to existing wires except this one had the yellow wire where the old one only had the red fused.
Make sure all your connections are good if one wire does not have good connection. It can creates resistance which more amperage passes, which makes the battery work more. If you really suspect that wire, you can unplug it and see if the battery keeps up for a week.
@@joetheboatguy5394 I so appreciate you conversing with me. That is my plan is just to disconnect the yellow wire, we don't really need the memory. But yes, all my connections are good. I left one thing out on my last comment. On the video I watched to help me change out the radio it said to tie the yellow wire in with the red wire. You show them connected separately. Do you think that can make the difference? I've seen a few things since the battery got drained that said not to twist them together. Your help is much appreciated!!
yes, the yellow and the red both come from the batterie. The difference is, on the red wire there’s a switch so basically you connected the red wire on a wire that ONLY has power when the key is turned. So, radio shouldn’t go ON if the ignition key in not turned on. So red wire should have 0V if key is not turned (OFF position) and 12V if key is turned.
Hi AtwoodBoxing, thanks for watching. Do you have a multimeter to measure the voltage between the red and the black wire of course after the fuse make sure there’s 12 V.. If there’s no 12 V, make sure your fuses is good and that you’re grounded correctly. Start with that and let me know 👍
Ok found your unit. You need to make sure you have 12v at the yellow after the fuse and red wire. What is your power source? A battery? Also when measuring your voltage, make sure you’re using your radio ground (black wire).
Thank you for the video! Just one question. There are so many different bus bars online, what amperage does it need to be in order to have both batteries and the motor grounding to it?
hi baileyschornak, thanks for watching and comment, Bus bars are usually high on amperage (200A). It all depends on what you are plugging on the bus bar. But if you get a 200A one, I'm pretty sure you will be fine :)
So my boat is exactly like your video. My boat has a 3 male 1 female attachment. All the videos I have seen are the opposite and 3 female 1 male adapter. Does this matter? My truck was built to fit with this setup you've shown.
Hi Erik-Veedee-Veechee, thanks for watching. If you get your hitch installed from a dealer this is the way they would have it. Some people prefer the other way but doesn’t change anything in the wiring. :)
Yeah I was confused. Thank you. So with the one brown wire can you run it down one side and then just connect from the side marker down to the left light or how do you make 1 wire run both ways?
Yes your brown wire will go to all your marker lights. You can split the wire with connectors splitters or the old fashion way splice the wire directly. 👍
Will the brown wire make the side of the light fixture light up in the back? I have the big round part light up but not the side of the square. I haven't put the marker lights on yet. Also does it matter if it's grounded on each light AND I'm running the white trailer tounge ground?
The brown wire will receive 12 V as soon as you turn your car lights on. Whatever lights you want ON that’s the wire it needs. So side markers backlights will have the brown wire. For the ground, you can use the trailer chassis for ground or the better way is to pass the white wired to all your lights for ground.
Hi ultimatejay, thanks for watching. Adding an on/off switch is an option, but it will only lead to human mistakes. In the event that you turn off your switch and plug in your charger, your batteries may not be charged the following time you want to go out. So, adding a switch on batteries can be a double edged knife.
Hi ioannisvarkoulis. In this diagram the starter battery is primary. But as soon as your voltage is higher than 12.8v your house battery will get charged also. The VSR is there to make sure your equipment doesn’t use your starter battery. 👍
So i could change the VSR connection from solar charging and make the house battery prime. The starter battery will be charged from engine anyway Is that so?
But your solar panel will charge the house battery if your starting battery is full. your solar will charge both batteries but the starter battery first. Why would you want your house battery to be primary?
@@joetheboatguy5394 I’m afraid that when the starter battery is full the solar charger will stop charging and the house battery will not reach the same status as the starter battery.
Thanks for the video.I have a minn kota on my boat connected to my house battery.I used your diagram plus I have also a Victron charger 220v to 12v and a solar panel with regulator connected to starter battery.My concern is if all that will work without any problem.So starting the engine will disengage the rest?
Hi ioannisvarkoulis, Thanks for watching, if you have a single VSR it should work exactly like the diagram. when your engine is on if you have a voltage rectifier or alternator it will charge both your batteries since your voltage will be higher then 12.8 and VSR will let the voltage pass.
Hi andreiradchenko, thanks for watching. When you ask for a kill switch, is it for the outboard? if yes, I have done some videos for simple boat wiring. You might want to check them out. I will put links below of the video I think your looking for. If I'm wrong please let me know. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bnQZmurYQ-g.htmlsi=uMX9fmOFGf73l7Z9 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8pWGlQIKcj0.htmlsi=q2_ewuRhZUBsCkQp
Hello Joe, I am writing from Turkey. I have the same engine. After the first operation, I cannot start it again for a long time. I was worried about going on a long road, but last time it stopped suddenly. In short, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
Hello erdoganordukaya, thanks for watching. A no start can be many things. First check if your spark plugs are good then check if they get a good spark on start. Bad spark will cause hard start. When it starts does your engine run rough? If it’s really rough, it could be because your reed valve are damaged. They are other things to check first. If you have a hard time starting it, always pull to prime button and put it back in place before starting. It will shoot a little spray of fuel to help it start. Also make sure your fuel bulb is pumped hard. That can only help the start of your engine. If your carburetor is gunk up, running some Seafoam into it to clean it. When running, is your idol good? Your idle screw might need a little adjustment. Also, you might need to adjust your air fuel mixture screw, but that’s one of the last things to do. Let me know and good luck 👍
@@joetheboatguy5394 Thank you very much for taking the time to provide me with the information. Can you give me an e-mail or phone number so that I can send you a video?
Hello erdogannordukaya, sorry i can’t give that kind of information. I would receive endless emails lol. I will try to find a way. I will get back to you soon.
Hello erdoganordukaya, you will need to create a dropbox and send me the link that should work. they are some free sites to share videos. Let me know :)
I’m having a brain freeze mom not sure hat do I hook my blue wire to if I have it from a 4 channel amp and a under the seat sub woofer to make sure it turns off and on from a car play single din
Hi lejend69, thanks for watching, on your amplifier do you have a connection called “remote or turn on lead”? Give me the connection you have available on amplifier. 👍
I have a remote blue wire from the amp went to know when I’m in the back of the radio harness do I do the other blue wire or the power antenna wire or splice it some where else ?
In your radio harnessed, you should have a blue wire that only has 12 V on it when you turn on the radio that’s the one you connect on the blue wire or the amp. 👍
Hi juniorsandoval, thanks for watching. The first thing I would check is the ground. Maybe your ground is not connected well. Are you sure your battery is good? If your batteries weak chances are not gonna get any lights going on. That is the two things I would check. Let me know. 👍
Great video, I have a three battery three perko switch set up, 2 cranking batteries and one house battery. My house battery loses charge fast if a forget to turn my switch to the all mark. I want to charge my house battery while I'm out on the water and not rely on my twin engines alternator to charge my house battery.