You're a lifesaver. I'm having to pull my transmission for the 2nd time in 3 months and your videos have been my guide. I'm 52 and live alone and I have to do all this myself in my dirt road driveway. I can't afford a mechanic but at least the 2nd time I was able to borrow a transmission jack!! Thanks so much for making this series. Now I'm gonna go see how you properly bleed the slave cylinder!
The Wrangler doesn’t have a separate reservoir for the clutch. Only has one reservoir for both brakes and clutch located in the drivers side near the firewall. Use DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid.
I want to thank you so much for making and posting this great project's video. I've been scouring the RU-vid for this until your video came up. Nothing I've seen on RU-vid can compare to your explanation and clarity. Thanks for your hard work. Makes my life easy. Bravo. Before I go, having a lift will be so awesome. I subscribed to your channel.
Does Anyone know if I only broke the red clip, but green clip is fine. Will I have issues? I put the connecter on best I could. But noticed if I give it a little tug it will come off 😢
I thought in reading , it said to depress clutch peddle , hold to floor , then bleed air out close valve and then lift peddle from floor and By hand move peddle up and down 3-5 time to pressurize I looks like you were able to bleed clutch Less having peddle to floor ,
Worked like a charm, simply and quickly, on my 2015, Wrangler "Willies". By the way, I had my oil changed and am using Full Synthetic oil, so it doesn't need changed as often. Thank you! 😊
Nice video, helped in replacing my clutch to a new CenterPoint II with flywheel. Issue I have is that the gear box (B&M) shifts gears but no power to the rear wheels. I suspected the B&M as it is a new add, but I put the old box back in and same result, rear wheels get no power. I put the jeep into 4X4 (high and Low) and all wheels spin. As such the clutch assembly is good. I did notice that the slave was extended and difficult to put back in, can it be that the slave is extended and is not retracting to allow the transmission to engage in regular mode? Only other thing is that I changed out the fluids in the Trans (Royal Purple) and transaxle. Thoughts?
Can't thank you enough for making these videos. I've got the transmission removed and getting ready to pull the clutch and flywheel. Your videos have been a huge help.
When you separated the transmission from the engine, lowering the transmission, the engine was rotated; when you attached again the transmission to the engine, the engine kept the same position. Does engine keep that position naturally, without any locker?
It was impossible for me remove by hands the shift lever. I solved using a clamp for glue the wood; a side at the end of shift lever and beating on the other side by a mallet.
Is the flywheel single or dual mass? Someone told me that clutch disc with springs works with single mass flywheel ; instead clutch disc without springs works with dual mass flywheel. What do you think about?
I just bought the same pressure bleeder but my clutch pedal is still spongy. No leaks detected and no loss of pressure at the canister. Will I still need to pump the clutch pedal after all is said and done to build up pressure?
I find the wranglers usually take a couple days of driving to get the solid clutch pedal feel from what I’ve experienced with them. Seems difficult to get all the air out even with a pressure bleeder.
Thanks a lot for your very good videos. So, did you replace only clutch bearing? Why did you reuse original fly-wheel, clutch disc and pressure plate? Is it necessary remove the starter?
Thanks for the comment! I only replaced the pilot bearing and clutch release bearing. The clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel were all still good so I used them. Those can be pricy parts so I try and save money where I can.
My slave cylinder is located on the opposite side of the master cylinder. It's a pain in the butt to bleed. I just ordered a power bleeder. Hopefully it does the trick. I have a 1992 Miata.
Is it absolutely necessary to remove the catalytic converters in order to access the bell housing bolts? Or is it a must? Thank you very much. Great detailed video.
Thanks! The issue with the catalytic converters is that they will hit the control arm mounts on the frame when you lower the transmission to get access to the upper bell housing bolts. I’ve tried before and wasn’t successful. Just couldn’t get enough room to get at those upped bell housing bolts. I also think it may be a struggle to pull the transmission back with them in place. Can be worth a try. You can always remove them later if you find they are in your way. It would save a good amount of time if you can work around them.
@@unboltedmediaI managed to do the job without removing the cats, but if I had to do it again, I'd definitely take them off too. What an absolute pain to get at those top mounting bolts! Realigning the tranny was super difficult too. Taking the cats off is definitely the way to go. 👍🏻
They are the factory JK LED headlights that came as an option on 2017 and 2018 JK Wranglers. Mine were a used set and if I remember correctly they were around $300 on eBay.
