Carbide3D designs and sells desktop CNC milling machines and accessories. This channel is dedicated to educating and inspiring those that are looking to purchase a machine or already own one.
Trying out CC7. I'm a beginner. Tried Fusion360 but is so complicated. Can I use my Genmitsu 4040 Pro Max with CC7. How would I add it to "Machines' in setup? Thank you.
Detail is generally a function of: - The material you're cutting (some materials cannot hold really find features) - The size of the cutter you're using (Smaller cutter -> longer machining time, but more detail) - How much time you want to spend on the machining process (More time->better detail, better finish)
i just read some comments and got ideas but i had a question. if time isnt an issue and im just doing a project for myself and wanna reduce sanding and fuzzy stuff, is it at least still safe to use a downcut bit but go slower and less depth per pass if for example im using a 1/4 inch endmill or a 7/8 diameter bowl round nose bit for an ashtray center pocketing in which the material is walnut and epoxy and the dimensions of the circle pocket is 7 inches in diameter and 1 inch total depth?
I have a Shapeoko 3 and went to flatten my wasteboard. Entire surface was covered and yet it seems now to be wavy, Not stepped as in a tramming error but wavy on sections and not everywhere. I've never been pleased with this machine, The tramming was fine, so I am at another loss for this result. Continually saving for a better machine.
If you end up with a wavy table after flattening, then you likely have some mechanical play in the machine that needs to be addressed. (Or the structure is bent, which is very unlikely, even on a 4-year-old machine)
This was such a great video! I know nothing about wood working or CNC, but was learning how to use this program to help my dad with his projects. It was so easy to understand and definitely made me feel like we will be able to create great things going forward. Thank you so much for creating this!
I had a router at first, but decided to upgraded because the bearing locked up on the router. The upgrade is night and day, I am glad I didn't replace the router.
Hi Winston, from a jeweler's perspective: Graphite molds deteriorate quickly if you flame them too hard, for too long, and too frequently. A quick hit with your torch is all it takes, not only to heat the graphite, but also to make sure it doesn't contain any moisture. A dry mold (for any material) is extremely important to prevent gas explosions. I suggest you use tin = pewter for your next tests (please no leaded alloys). It's cheaper, has a very low melting point, and flows well. Most importantly, heat your metal to the point where it flows freely in your crucible. Clean the surface of any residue with a cheap stainless steel spoon. Use leather gloves. Once the metal surface is mirror-shiny, bring your crucible close to the mold opening along with the flame and pour quickly. Slow pouring won't work. To make sure your design is suitable for casting, this is the best way to test quickly over and over again. For professional casting (jewelry, etc.) and graphite mold making (CNC) you can contact me anytime. Good luck and have fun casting. Herri
Question. There are CAD and CAM that you work with to make the CNC cut out your project. I understand drawing in CAD, but CAM runs the CNC. How do the two programs intertwine to cut out your project?
Hey Kolab, We have an extensive learning platform at My.Carbide3D.com designed to get you up to speed and winning with CNC, quickly. All the information you need is there. The short answer this particular question is: you design the part and assign toolpaths inside Carbide Create. When you load that file into Carbide Motion, which controls your machine. Motion reads the set of instructions or G-Code from your Create file. Those instructions tell the machine what tool to ask for and where to use that tool in the project. It’s easy to learn and you’ll find yourself feeling like a magician.
Can you use Carbide Create Pro with a Sainsmart Genmitsu type CNC? I have an Anolex CNC which is a typical GRBL type CNC like a Genmitsu. I bought Pro.
@2:44 no need to unscrew any of the tail linkages, just pop the harness off the tail linkages (one one with screws), it will pop back on easy. I've done this faster and easier than this video.
We think it is. - It runs locally, so there's no cloud dependency - It uses a more traditional workflow that scales to bigger and more complicated projects - You can use more than two tools in a job - Pro adds a bunch of tools to let you take on 3D projects and more advanced toolpaths
I enjoyed the video but I couldn't help but noticing the Scuderia Ferrari Prancing Horse logo in the background. Just an FYI, if you made that you need to be VERY careful displaying it. My family has been members of Ferrari Club of America for 60 years (I'm 3rd generation) and in the last 20 years Ive lost track of how many members have received letters regarding copyright infringement from the legal team at Maranello. They even have a tip line that offers rewards to people who report suspected intellectual property violations.
@@carbide3d It helps with being able to view things. White or brighter text on a dark background has better clarity and easier on the eyes. I apologized if my question came across rude. I am not the best at explain things.
I've been brushing up on Carbide for weeks ready to purchase the program, right up until yesterday when I realised it's such a big hassle to generate the G-code for 3rd party machines, all the weeks wasted so now looking at Carveco maker. Carbides are losing a lot of customers I would think by choosing to favour their own stuff, I liked it too as it was quite close to Lightburn software that I use for my laser. 🤔🤔
If you buy Create Pro for a third-party machine, saving G-code is not a big hassle-it's just a button press. We favor our software so we can provide a consistent experience to our customers and support them and their projects (at no additional cost to them). If a user chooses to use different software, there's nothing stopping them-our machines take normal G-code as well, so they can use any common CAD/CAM software they prefer.
Great video! What 1/8” end mill did you use in that section? Single flute? We are trying to cut acrylic on somewhat upgraded xcarve, and though we got the 1/4 cuts working we seem to be having issues with 1/8 cuts with a single glue upcut.
Single flutes are the way to go with Acrylic. We have a pair of single-flute endmills that excel in acrylic projects. Here is the 1/8": shop.carbide3d.com/collections/cutters/products/274z-125-single-flute-zrn
We found that dual flute worked much better yesterday, because the spindle speed was slower and less inclined to make melted acrylic and also let us move the the bit away from the cut faster.
when setting x,y and z on a piece of stock like this thats all wonky, correct me if im wrong but you cant use the bit setter or the bitzero and have to do it manually correct?
You can always use bitsetter. BitZero is not as handy given that you want to exceed the size of your stock in X and Y. Additionally, the low point of your stock may not be on a corner nor large enough to set your BitZero into to get an accurate reading. Manual Z setting is the best plan.
hi there. quick question or two. is there a way to show how to do a final rastor path so that you dont have to sand much and itll be smooth at the end? or do you already have a video about that and have the link for me please.
Elad, This video details creation of a raster path as a flattening path. You may find it helpful. How to: Flatten Stock on your CNC Router ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DjIL2Lsfq0Y.html
@@carbide3d awesome. thank you. ill watch it. loving the videos by the way, I already feel pretty good abut getting started with my first project soon. waiting on some parts for my new, used just bought shapeoko 3 and excited to get started. these videos have been great.
@@carbide3d oh, i also have another question. ill be surfacing and milling wood and epoxy projects like a 10x10 ashtray so, two different materials within a project. any advice on feeds and speeds when it comes to doing the center circle relief of the ashtray that contains both of those materials?
During the first part of this video, it looks like the dust shoe is upside down. How is that done and why? The rest of the video the dust shoe is normal.
Aluminum can be cut with most of our tooling. For many jobs, the single flute endmills are the best place to start your aluminum journey. #274-Z and #278-Z endmills are our front-line weapons in an aluminum or brass application.
This depends significantly on the design and endmills used. Factoring in all the tool changes, these were approximately 15min. per side. If you were to run batches, you'd end up conserving a fair amount of time over a several coin run.
Hey Jared, You are welcome to download the files and use them as the basis for a new design. If you download the original files, designing one for your HDZ should be reasonably straightforward. You could mill one from wood, plastic or metal on your Shapeoko. (no 3D printing required). Remember, with Shapeoko, you own the means of production!
In order to answer this question effectively, we would need more information on your goals and project scope. Try posting this question, along with photos and further information, at community.carbide3d.com/. Our community is incredibly supportive, and you'll find that our staff is also active in the forum.
Yes sir, Kirk. This project was created and machined using Mac. In fact, our software is 100% cross platform. Giving you the greatest possible flexibility when choosing how to design and run projects.
